58 



JOURNAL OF HOETICULTUEE AND COTTAGE GAEDENER. 



( January 21, 1875. 



and one that has not, but only heen allowed to lie till the time 

 for cropping comes and then dug np, and such an important 

 influence has it in starting a crop on its season of growth, 

 that it is necessary to make this special remark upon it. And 

 again, the ease with which a soil can be worked reduces the 

 labour of cropping fully one-half ; and the seeds when deposited 

 in it have a much better chance of vegetating with something 

 like regularity, and the seedsman would escape the chance of 

 being blamed for sending bad seeds. This working of the soil 

 applies to every part of the garden, though, with the exception 

 of flower beds and borders, it cannot be worked-up so deeply 

 among shrubs and trees owing to the injury it would cause to 

 the roots ; but still the time has come when it is necessary for 

 it to be done, as well for the benefit of the soU and the things 

 growing in it, as it is for a neat and fresh appearance which it 

 gives to the garden. 



While talking of soil, it is just the time of year to prepare and 

 place under cover the diiierent sorts of soil likely to be required 

 for potting and other purposes during the coming season. For 

 instance, it is my custom at this time to mix up the soil for 

 potting bedding plants, frequently turning it over until required 

 for use, and then the work can be done expeditiously. The 

 other soils, if laid up separately and in the dry as they ought to 

 be, can easily be worked-up when wanted. 



This reminds me that all the common sorts of bedding Gera- 

 niums, from Mrs. Pollock to Tom Thumb, that have been 

 stored away as old plants thickly in boxes or pots, ought now to 

 be brought out and placed in the frames or cu the greenhouse 

 shelves to induce them to break into growth. First of all the 

 stems ought to be cut down to where there is life and health ; 

 and when they show signs of growing they should be divided 

 and potted separately, and grown-on until they have established 

 themselTes. But when they are first cut down and until they 

 break into growth very little water should be given to them, or 

 the chances are, that instead of growing they will decay and die. 



Again. It will be as well to see to the stock of plants that are 

 intended to supply' cuttings for propagation, such as Verbenas 

 of sorts, Lobelias, Heliotropes, Fuchsias, and other things of 

 which a greater stock is wanted, and place them in heat as soon 

 as room can be made for them. It must be borne in mind, that 

 if there is no convenience for propagation in the house it will 

 be necessary to make up a bed for them. This may consist of 

 a moderate heating bed of dung and leaves, and when quite 

 ready cover the surface with old tan, ashes, or sawdust, or in 

 the absence of these things a very light dry soil will answer; 

 the object being to let the heat pass up through it readily, the 

 pots to be i^lunged up to the rims when the bed is in a fit state 

 and free from steam, which if allowed to prevail will cause 

 many of the cuttings to go off. 



Those who force bulbs or have the means of bringing them on 

 in the greenhouse or conservatory should now introduce a few 

 more pots of such as Tulips, Hyacinths, Narcissi, Jonquils, Lily 

 of the Valley, Solomon's Seal, ttc. First of all ascertain that 

 the bulbs are firm in the soil and the drainage quite clear. It 

 often happens that when the pot is small and the soil light the 

 vigorous roots of the Hyacinth, from growing so fast in a cramped 

 space, push the bulb almost out of the soil. Now, to make it 

 again firm requires care. The roots are brittle and easily break. 

 Instead of pushing the bulb into the soil it would be better to make 

 it firm by adding soil to the top, or repot it into a larger one. 



The pretty and useful forcing plant, Dielytra spectabilis, may 

 be introduced into the greenhouse. It needs but a very mild 

 heat to bring it into bloom ; and although it may be grown into 

 a very large specimen if the roots are maintained in a healthy 

 state and the crowns formed of a good size, yet it is particularly 

 handsome and attractive when grown in small pots for room or 

 vase decoration. If Cinerarias are required larger the plants 

 ought to be shifted at once, and let that be the last one ; but if 

 they are needed more for bloom small plants will be the most 

 serviceable. And the same may be said of greenhouse Pelar- 

 goniums. Large plants for specimens need plenty of room and 

 frequently turning about to get shapeable plants, so much so 

 that they ought almost to have a house to themselves, as the 

 staking and tying of the shoots is a frequent and necessary 

 operation. Bring an old plant of each sort of Fuchsias into the 

 warm part of the greenhouse in order to produce cuttings for 

 plants for autumn blooming ; and the stock of herbaceous Cal- 

 ceolarias should be examined, and those strong and healthy be 

 shifted into larger pots. These plants should never be allowed 

 to become pot-bound while they are increasing in size. It is, 

 moreover, a plant very liable to throw its roots out on the sur- 

 face of the soil ; this peculiarity is partly encouraged by the 

 large leaves, which generally lie flat upon the soil. These roots 

 must be encouraged by top-dressings, especially when the plants 

 are throwing up their flower stems. — T. Eecokd. 



DOINGS OF THE LAST AND PRESENT "WEEKS. 



KITCHEN CiBDEN. 



Allusion was made a week or two ago to forcing Sea-kale in 

 pots. It is the best way to dig up the whole stock of roots, 



selecting all the large roots to pot, reserving all under a certain 

 size to plant out as soon as convenient. Just as the crowns are 

 starting is as good a time as any to plant them. Care must be 

 taken not to get into the same muddle as we did this year. The 

 plunging material used is generally cocoa-nut fibre refuse; any 

 fermenting will in all probability cause the roots to rot, and the 

 crowns will not start at all. In our case some decaying stable 

 manure that had been used for another purpose was placed too 

 close to the pots ; this injured the roots, and our first crop was 

 spoiled. The same result has happened when water has been 

 applied to the pots after they were put into heat. The best way 

 is to use sandy loam moderately moist when potting, and not to 

 water the roots at all. It has been stated already that the pots 

 are plunged out of doors, but in wet cold districts it may be 

 desirable to throw some protection over them to ward o2 the 

 rains. 



Just a word also about forcing Asparagus. Our own experi- 

 ence would lead us to recommend heated pits, and the method 

 of forcing in such structures was explained some weeks ago. 

 Not everyone can command them, though, and perhaps hotbeds 

 are more frequently used for this purpose ; but more than once 

 have we seen the roots damaged and the consequent failure of 

 the crop from overheating. The bed should be formed of leaves 

 and manure in equal proportions. The manure should not be 

 fresh from the stable, but should be thrown in a heap for two 

 weeks, and turned once or twice. In a week or so after the bed 

 has been made-up it will be ready for the frame and lights, and 

 when the heat has declined sufficiently the soil may be put in, 

 and the roots planted thickly. We have made-up excellent beds 

 with equal proportions of stable manure and coarse grass forked 

 out of marsh land; the bottom heat from this was also very 

 lasting. The roots ought not to be watered until the crowns 

 are fairly started, and then it must be done carefully. 



Many persons recommend autumn sowing for Peas. In some 

 districts it answers very well. The crops sown in November 

 have been earlier and equally good as regards crop with those 

 sown in favourable weather in January. The experience gained 

 in this neighbourhood is all in favour of spring sowing. The 

 market gardeners, who must understand "cost and come to," 

 BOW in January and February for the first crop; but at whatever 

 time the seed is deposited in the ground, much of success or 

 failure is owing to the condition of the seed bed at the time. 

 The ground ought not to be worked when it is wet if it is 

 intended for any early crop. It is also quite necessary to watch 

 for a favourable opportunity to sow the seeds. Our first crop 

 was sown to-day (15th); the ground was in good order, and the 

 day fine. Ample trial has been made of the best early Peas ; 

 and as we think two early varieties quite suificient for onr 

 purpose, the selection has fallen upon Alpha and William I., both 

 raised by Mr. Thomas Laxton of Stamford. 



All the kitchen-garden ground is in excellent order for digging 

 and trenching, and no time must be lost in getting it forwarded. 

 We have finished the pruning, and will soon get through with 

 tying and nailing. 



FRUIT AND rORCINU HOUSES. 



Pine}-ies. — We have a house of Queens, which were suckers in 

 August; if the late autumn months had not been so mild, which 

 made us keep the plants growing later than usual, we should like 

 to have started them at once. Most of the plants are in 10 inch 

 pots, which are well filled with roots. Our only difficulty is, that 

 they have not rested enough, and when such is the case a large 

 proportion of the plants commence to grow instead of throwing- 

 up fruit. When a batch of good suckers can be taken off and 

 potted in June, it is then easy to have a batch of plants ready 

 for starting on New Year's-day. A large number will show fruit 

 at once, others will start into growth and throw-up at intervals, 

 which will be all the better, as a succession of fruit is thus 

 obtained. Smooth-leaved Cayennes and Charlotte Rothschild 

 are now usually grown for winter; but those who prefer flavour 

 to size and appearance, will have a goodly proportion of Black 

 Jamaica. The Queen is by far the best to start now, and the 

 earliest fruit will be ripe in June. The stronger-growing sorts 

 should not be grown with Queens, nor should the plants be 

 quickened into active growth before the middle of February. 

 Cayennes generally throw-up freely, while the more luxuriant 

 Charlotte Rothschild will most likely start into growth. Many 

 persons have recommended the cutting-over of the plants at the 

 surface of the pot ; this causes them to throw-up sometimes, but 

 not invariably. We have cut over strong plants and potted them, 

 to find that they did not fruit earlier than suckers put in at the 

 same time. A house started now, or that was started on the 

 first day of the year, should have a minimum temperature kept 

 up of not less than 65^ bottom heat 90°. When the days are 

 cloudy, as they are eleven out of every twelve, the temperature 

 of the houses does not rise much higher by day than it does at 

 night ; the hot-water pipes must be kept about the same degree 

 of heat, and a little air admitted from 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. 



Orange Trffs.— There are few gardens where the culture of 

 dessert Oranges is practised to any extent ; but the trees occupy 

 very little room — indeed small plants in G and 8-inch pots, not 



