Fobruai-y 18, 1S75. ] 



JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 



117 



a small compass, and are put away till the next spring; or will 

 be found very useful put round small beds to protect them 

 from croquet balls, i.Vc. — C. Martin. 



ADELAIDE BOTANIC GARDEN. 



Dk. Schombukgk's labels are worthy of special note. They 

 stand out with a blaclt-and-white clearness that led to a par- 

 ticular inquiry as to his method. The labels are of sheet iron, 

 and, before painting, a mordant of composition is employed 

 thus— oue part chloride of copper, one of nitrate of copper, 

 and one of sal ammoniac are dissolved in sixty-four parts of 

 water, to which solution is added one part commercial hydro- 

 chloric acid. The iron labels are brushed over with this 

 liquid, which gives them a darkish colour. In the course of 

 twelve or twenty-four hours they become dry, and lo their 

 now dirty-grey surface a coat or two of black oil colour will 

 firmly adhere. When dry the names of the plants are written 

 with white oil colour, and immediately sanded with white 

 Baud, which dries with the white paint and becomes compact. 

 On these labels, which resist all action of the weather, Dr. 

 Sohomburgk's rule is to print the botanical name of each 

 plant, its natural order, and native country. 



The collection of outdoor and pot plants in this garden is 

 understood to be the largest to be found in any kindred insti- 

 tution in the southern hemisphere. There are about eight 

 thousand species. The collection of Cacti and other succu- 

 lents contains alone six hundred species, and I believe a simi- 

 lar collection is not to be found in Australia. Many of the 

 pot plants which have lately appeared iu the European market 

 are already found in the collection, and, notwithstanding some- 

 what overcrowding in the houses, have a healthy appearance, 

 and show the care with which they are treated. Tlie Orchid 

 collection is also very fine. In 1870 Dr. Schomburgk made 

 the experiment of planting a Palm group at the lower end of 

 the garden with Palms of the following genera : — Latauia, 

 Sabal, Chama^rops, Khapis, Cocos, and Phtcnix, which seem to 

 have become acclimatised, and are doing well, considering the 

 unfavourable climate for tropical plants. — {Adelaide Leader.) 



NOTES ON VILLA and SUBURBAN GARDENING. 



The planting and pruning of evergreens does without doubt 

 CO acern the occupier oE a villa or sub urban residence qui teas much, 

 if not more, than auy other class of interested persons. First, as 

 to the time of planting. He is by compirlsion often obliged to 

 depart from the advice given, because the building is unfinished 

 and the grouud not put iuto ijroper order to receive the plants 

 until very late in the season. Secondly, rather than see his 

 place go bare of these ornaments for a whole season, he is con- 

 strained to plant even at the risk of losing many of the shrubs, 

 which he certainly will do if a period of dry weather set iu 

 immediately after planting, and if the greatest care is not 

 bestowed upon them by ample mulching and frequent waterings 

 both overhead and at the roots, and this so copiously as to 

 thoroughly soak every particle of soil and reach every root be- 

 longing to the plant. 



The greatest cause of failure is the lack of attention iu these 

 essential points. But this possibly the amateur is unable to do 

 of himself, and to employ others to' do it becomes expensive. 

 But even this outlay may be economical in the end; for if 

 planting must be done beyond the season, iu addition to the 

 annoyance of several dead and dying plants constantly coming 

 before the eyes, there is the expense again of purchasing others 

 to replace them. But I fancy I hear him say, "What am I to 

 do in such extreme cases ? " My answer is, Let planting alone 

 until the proper time, which I consider to be iu the early autumn. 

 That is the best time for planting most shrubs, though some of 

 them, if they are large and good balls of earth can be ensured, 

 may be successfully planted during January aud Fubruary, pro- 

 vidmg always that the weather ha mild and the soil iu good 

 condition. 



Gardeners of skill, and who know the conditions under which 

 a plant will recover itself after removal, are not so particular as 

 to the time of transplanting, but an amateur's case is very dif- 

 ferent and must be treated cautiously. The advantages of 

 autumn planting are in my opinion much greater than at auy 

 other season. The earth is then warmed hy the summer's sun, 

 and the soil is generally in better condition than at any other 

 lime. The plants, too, at that season are in the best order for 

 removal, because the roots are still vigorous and growing, aud will 

 consequently take hold of the new soil more readily, and quickly 

 establish themselves. This is important, as enabling them to 

 pass through the winter without injury. It is moreover easily 

 seen that by autumn planting almost a season is gained, and 

 they will be likely to thrive much better the following year on 



account of being early established. What I mean by early 

 autumn planting is in September and October ; November plant- 

 ing is only permissible if the weather is mild, and on no account 

 do I advise planting in frosty weather, even if the soil is not 

 frozen hard enough to prevent working it. I think for an 

 amateur it is not wise to advise him to jilant evergreens after 

 the month of February, because towards the latter end of March, 

 or sometimes even before then, the weather is dry and frosty 

 with cutting winds, which do more injury to newly-plauted 

 shrubs than many people are aware of. 



Again, I am of opinion that when the season is getting late 

 and planting has to be done at more risk, the smaller the shrubs 

 planted the better success will attend them, because the roots 

 are more fibrous and close to the stem of the plant, and if neces- 

 sary to ha^e them brought from a distance more earth can be 

 secured to them. While attending to small plants for late 

 planting I would like to mention that there are some sorts of 

 shrubs, such as Phillyreas, Evergreen Oaks, some sorts of Hollies, 

 particularly the golden-leaved kinds, aud Arbutus or Strawberry 

 Tree, which it would be better at all times to select small for 

 planting, because they do not move so well when large, and 

 especially the Evergreen Oak aud Phillyrea. These planted too 

 large make no satisfactory progress for a season or two after- 

 wards. The only fault the planting of small plants leads oue to 

 commit is that of planting too thickly. The foremost idea at 

 planting time is to produce an effect at once, which is all very 

 good provided a judicious thinning of them takes place every time 

 they are getting too close together, bearing in mind at each 

 thinning to remove iu favour of those plants that are to remain 

 permanent. 



This brings me to the pruning portion of their treatment, 

 which is of great consequence to an amateur, because in the 

 small space devoted to the shrubbery it ought to be the aim to 

 have as much variation as possible iu the outline, with shrubs of 

 different size and colour of foliage to meet the eye at every turn. 

 The pruning consists iu merely shortening the straggling shoots 

 every year, when they appear likely to draw the plant away 

 from its natural habit. This will induce the shrub to form a 

 dense body without producing a formal and rigid outlme. 

 Shrubs, such as Laurels and Yews, will need more severe prun- 

 ing than such slow growers as Hollies, Box, LaurustLnus, and 

 many others. To keep those last named neat without closeness 

 will only require the leading shoots cutback an inch or two; 

 this is the more necessary on account of their not breaking into 

 growth so well as others of a more vigorous nature. I canuot 

 name a better time than the present fur auy necessary pruning, 

 as the plants are not likely to start into growth again till all 

 danger from frost is over ; it is also couvenient as being the season 

 of dressing the borders containing them, so that the whole may 

 possess a ueat and attractive appearance throughout the spring 

 months.— Thomas Recobd. 



DOINGS OF THE LAST AND PRESENT WEEKS. 



KITCHEN OABDEN. 



The weather has been still unfavourable for cropping — frosty 

 at night, and just enough thaw in the day to make wheeling or 

 digging impracticable. Pea sticks can be cut and pointed, and 

 we always prepare a stock of the smaller branchlets for support- 

 ing the Strawberries. The Pea'sticks should be arranged in the 

 required lengths according to the quantity of each variety that 

 is sown — viz., 3 feet G inches for the Veitch's Perfection tv'pe, 

 5 feet for Supreme, aud between 6 and 7 feet for Ne Plus Ultra 

 and allied sorts. The sticks should not be tied-up in bundles 

 as is sometimes done, but placed upright with the pointed end 

 downwards. Beech, elm, aud hornbeam are well adapted for 

 making Pea sticks. 



The earliest Bhubarl) is starting nicely into growth out of 

 doors, and, should the weather become warmer, will soon be 

 ready for use. Of course the whole quarter where it has been 

 planted is well covered over with stable litter. Sea-kale will be 

 planted out if weather permit. The system of forcing causes 

 us to lift the whole of it, selecting all the roots that are strong 

 enough, retaining all the smaller ones to plant-out. The best of 

 the roots that have been forced are also selected to plant with 

 them, and a sowing is made every year to keep up the supply of 

 healthy young plants. Sea-kale requires a moderattly rich soil, 

 but no crude manure should come in contact with the roots. 

 Coal ashes may be dug into the ground or placed over the rows 

 with advantage. The seeds may be sown on well-prepared 

 ground in March, and will then make strong plants by autumu ; 

 a number of thein will be strong enough for forcing. 



mUIT AND FOKCINO HOUSES. 



Piiwriea. — Queens are generally so plentiful that any suckers 

 requiring to be removed are usually thrown on the ruljbiah-beai) 

 at this season. Charlotte Rothschild doe^ not throw-up suckers 

 quite so freely, but it is more readily increased than Smooth- 

 leaved Cayenne. Of this last we never have too many, as 

 friends are quite ready to ease us of any surplus stock. It is 

 best not to allow plants that have thrown-up fruit, or are about 



