July 3, 1874 1 



JOURNAL OP HORTICULTUEE AND COTTAGE GAEDENEK. 



13 



the superfluous wood. Scarcely anything looks worse in a 

 garden than imperfect Box edgings, with gaps at irregular inter- 

 vals the whole length of the path. Unsuitable soil is often 

 blamed for this, when the primary cause is to be found in crops 

 overhanging the edgings during the summer months. 



FKUIT AND FOBCINO HOUSES. 



Pineries. — There are plenty of good suckers on the Queens, 

 and as soon as we have the opportunity we shall have them taken 

 off and potted, using Ginch pots for the smaller plants, and 

 7-inch for those of a larger size. We have under the force of 

 circumstances been obliged to use different sorts of soil for 

 Pines, but the best seems to be medium clay, using only the sur- 

 face turf of an old pasture ; added to this are one-sixth part of 

 rotted manure and some crushed bones. This compost is 

 recommended for fruiting plants ; a lighter compost may be 

 used for potting the suckers. Orange trees grown at the back 

 of the Pine house are progressing well. A great difficulty with 

 them is to keep the leaves clean ; even with frequent syringing 

 an accumulatmu of a black substance takes place upon the 

 leaves. This is removed with a sponge and soapy water; it pro- 

 ceeds from scale on the wood, which must also be washed off. 

 A surface-dressing of pounded charcoal, bone meal, and guano 

 in equal proportions is very beneficial to them. 



Figs in pots have also supplied us with a few fine-flavoured 

 fruit. Not every variety of Fig is adapted for pot culture, 

 although those that have failed here may not do so in other 

 gardens. The best that we have tried are White and Grizzly 

 Bourjassotte. Gros Verte is also a dwarf-growing variety pro- 

 ducing fine-flavoured fruit. 



Orchard House. — There is a considerable drawback in the 

 cultivation of any fruit or flower when two or more varieties 

 requiring diverse treatment are grown in the same house. This 

 is always the case when Strawljerries and Peaches are grown 

 together; syringe the Strawberries effectu illy night and morn- 

 ing until the fruit colour, even then red spider is sure to appear 

 before all the fruit is gathered. The atmospheric conditions 

 necessary to produce good flavour in Strawberries are the very 

 opposite of those required for Peach trees making rapid growth, 

 and having fruit in the earlier stages of development. Now 

 that all the Strawberries in pots are cleared out, the house is 

 shut-up early and the trees thoroughly syringed night and 

 morning. The trees were surface-dressed for the first time last 

 week, and after this dressing they start into a much more 

 vigorous growth. If the trees are large enough, as they are in 

 our case, they must be closely stopped-back. Abundant sup- 

 plies of water are now essential, and the watering should always 

 be done by the same man, who will, if he is attentive, get to 

 know the quantity required by each tree, and will act accord- 

 ingly. A close scrutiny must be made for aphis, as this must 

 be destroyed by fumigation or washing on its first appearance. 

 If this pest is allowed to have much license given to it, the trees 

 will be permanently injured. 



GREENHOUSE. 



At this season the display of flowers in the greenhouse is 

 kept-up by what is called in gardening phraseology softwooded 

 plants, and if the house is to be kept tidy very much more work 

 13 required — removing petals that have dropped, or decayed 

 and withered flowers. The stage Pelargoniums are now past 

 their best, but Zonal kinds, Fachsias, and other plants are 

 very useful. A very distinct plant, though one not often seen, 

 is Lisianthus BusseUiamts. If properly treated this is easily 

 grown and lasts a long time in beauty. The seeds should be 

 sown in light peaty soil in a hothoub'e ; in a young state the 

 plants are very easily killed if great care is not taken with 

 them. The pot must be placed on a shelf near the glass, and 

 shaded from sunshine. When large enough to handle place 

 each plant separately in a very small pot, always keeping the 

 pots on a shelf near the glass, and shading from sun during 

 their growth. Our plants which have just come into flower 

 were grown in the Melon houses, where the temperature has 

 ranged from (10° to 03' at night since January. The potting 

 material throughout has been Orchid peat with a small portion 

 of leaf mould added to it, and the plants have flowered in pots 

 8^ inches diameter, inside measure. The Orchid peat is very 

 porous, and the plants on that account should not suffer for 

 lack of water at the roots. Probably this would be very in- 

 jurious if not fatal to them. 



We are now potting the Azaleas, and removing them to a 

 house where they cau have a good heat— 70° or more at night ; 

 this should have been done two or three weeks ago, but to do 

 all our work just when it ought to be done is more than we have 

 yet been able to accomplish. The potting material for Azaleas 

 is very simple, and is composed of turfy peat ; the pots are also 

 well drained. This is a matter that ought not to be done care- 

 lessly under any circumstances ; but iu the case of all hard- 

 wooded plants that must remain three or four years in the same 

 pots, the results of bad drainage must be obvious to any intelli- 

 gent cultivator. The Azalea is very subject to the attacks of 

 red spider, but when the plants are making their growth they 

 require plenty of water at the roots ; they must also be syringed 



two or three times a-day, and they delight in a moisture-laden 

 atmosphere. 



We cannot grow Carnations and Picotees iu beds in the open 

 ground in the soil to be obtained here, but they succeed tolerably 

 well in pots. Another advantage to be derived from this mode 

 of culture is that the pots can be removed under glass wheu the 

 flowers open, where they can be protected from the weather. 

 Ours were removed indoors this week. Potting young plants of 

 Tree or Perpetual-flowering Carnations. The plants intended 

 to flower in November and December should be of large size by 

 this time, and should be potted into their flowering pots by the 

 end of this month or early in August. 



Litium auratam is now in full beauty, and when well grown 

 has a magnificent effect in the greenhouse or conservatory. One 

 or two others of the new species of recent introduction are very 

 distinct and good. Messrs. Veitch, of Chelsea, exhibited oue of 

 the newest of the Californiau species— L. purpureum, which 

 gained a first-class certificate at Kensington; it is of small 

 growth, densely spotted, and very sweet. We have L. Washing- 

 tonianum, L. pubulerum, and L. HumbokUii now in flower; 

 the first-named had only two flowers on a spike, but these were 

 delicate in their colouring and very elegant. L. Humboldtii 

 seems to be allied to the Tiger Lily in the formation of its 

 flowers. One bulb threw up two spikes, and had more than a 

 dozen flowers on one, and this bulb was so weak iu its growth 

 last year that it did not flower ; the petals are turned back and 

 meet at the points, they are of a bright orange colour, and 

 densely spotted with brown and black, — J. Douglas. 



TO CORRESPONDENTS. 



*,* It is particularly requested that no communication be ad- 

 dressed pripalehj to either of the Editors of this Journal. 

 All correspondence should be directed either to " The 

 Editors," or to " The Publisher." Letters addressed to 

 Mr. Johnson or Dr. Hogg often remain unopened un- 

 avoidably. 



Correspondents should not mix up on the same sheet questions 

 relating to Gardening and those on Poultry and Bee sub- 

 jects, and should never send more than two or three 

 questions at once. All articles intended for insertion 

 should be written on one side of the paper only. 



We also request that no one will write privately to any of our 

 correspondents, as doing so subjects them to unjustifiable 

 trouble and expense. 



Marechal Niel Eose Infested with Scale (F. E.).— Your plant is terribly 

 infested with the brown mussel scale, which it not removed will destroy 

 it. Take a hard brush, an old plate- brush or some such thing, and remove as 

 much of the scale as you cau with that. Theii wash the shoots with a 

 flfilution of Gisburst compound made by dissolving 8 ozs. in a gallon of water. 

 Apply this carefully to the hard branches only, and avoid touching the foliage 

 or tender shoots. Itepeat this from time to time, aud you may succeed iu 

 cleaning the plant. Winter is the best time to apply so strong a solution, 

 when the tender growth is past, but as the case is a desperate one you may 

 run the risk now. If this do not succeed, cut the plant down, and watch 

 carefully the new growth. 



Nottingham Netting, &c. {Fi/tcfn-iirars SutscriSrr).— You can get the 

 netting of any of the seedsmen who advertise in our columns. It is not at 

 all uncommon. 



Poppies and CAMoiin.E (C. C.).— We'do not know of any manual that 

 treats on the culture of these plants. We presume you mean field cultui-e 

 for medicinal purposes. 



Vine Roots in Leaf Son. on Boeder— Pot Vines (R. S. M.).—lt the 

 soil IS not more than a few inches thick leave it on, and apply the same depth 

 to the other part of the border ; but if it must be removed it will not be safe 

 to do so untU the present crop of fruit is ripe, and it wdl act injuriously to 

 cut away and expose the roots to cold ; therefore, you will need to apply a 

 covering of leaves or litter when the leaf soil is removed. Stop the Viues in 

 pots when they have canes 8 or 9 feet long, aliowiug the laterals to make two 

 or three leaves before stopping, and when the wood is brown place against 

 the wall or fence out of doors to harden. Prune to the length required 

 wheu the leaves fall, removing to a cool dry house until required for forcing. 

 The best compost for pot Strawberiies is three-fourths turfy rather strong 

 loam, one-fourth well-rotted mauuro, and one-sixth of old mortar rubbish. 



Bed of Clematis Jackhanni (C. B |.— We should not only well raise the 

 bed in the centre, but also have the edge above the surrounding level. The 

 soil should be sandy loam enriched with leaf soil, well-rotted manure, or 

 decayed vegetable refuse. The stones may be placed on the surface, but not 

 close together, leaving some openings between them for putting-in pegs 

 secure the shoots to, and for top-dressings. We should have onepiaut in the 

 centre of the bed, ami others round tUe edge at 1 foot from it, the plants 

 4 feet apart. You will thus requiie six plants. Put-iu pegs or stakes so as to 

 be not more than 6 inches above ground, and to these secure the shoots. The 

 slugs may oe kept under by frequently dusting the bsd with quicklime. 



MosHEOoM Spawn not Running IT. IK.).— There are various reasons why 

 your Mushroom bed has not produced. The spawn may not have been good, 

 and heat may not have been generated. Did jou cover the bed with litter ? 

 Without knowing exactly your treatment we cannot tell the reason of your 

 failure, but the probability is the fault was in the spawn. 



Celine Foeestier Bose (.-1. J. C:irlwrii)ht).—W'a would recommend yon 

 to remove your Kose tree from the shaded eastern position in which it is now 

 growing, as it evideutly does not suit it. Let it have an open but sheltered 

 situation. You need give yourself uo trouble about Spiraia (Hoteia) japonic*. 

 II you were to leave it in the ground it would bloom freely next year without 



