Jnlj 16, 1674. 1 



JOUKNAL OF HOETIODLTDEE AND COTTAGE GABDENEK. 



61 



At the Evening Fete of the Eotal Botanic Society, 



held ou the 8lh inst., there was a lurge display of table deeo- 

 ratioQS, bouqnats, &a. ; while Mr. William Paul, of Waltham 

 Cross, furniBhed a beautifully-arranged Rose garden, in which 

 some eiL'ht thousaad trusses of cut Hoses were employed. Mr. 

 Wills, of Brompton, furnished the Society's decorations. 



A MEANS of preventing the spread of the Vine pest, the 



Phylloxeba vastatkix, is said to have been found in the spread- 

 ing of a layer of fine sand on the ground round the stems of 

 the plants. The saud is said to be too loose for this insect to 

 pass through, and the consequence is that it is intercepted in 

 its passage from one plant to another. We are sorry to hear 

 a report that this plague has found its way into Australia. 

 The Vine-growing districts of our Australian colonies are be- 

 coming 60 important that we trust this report may be 

 unfounded. At all events steps should be taken to prevent its 

 introduction into any of our colonies: such a measure will be 

 easier than its destruction, should it ever gain a footing in 

 them. — (Nature.) 



NOTES ON VILLA, and SUBURBAN GARDENING. 



Cyclartien Culture — In few plants are so many recommenda- 

 tions combined for the admirers of curious, gay, or fragrant 

 flowers, as in the species and varieties of Cyclamens, yet auyoue 

 acquaiuted with their appearance mi^ht well be surprised to fiud 

 them so much nt glected. Flowering at various seasons, but 

 particularly during the winter and spring, the greenhouse or 

 eveu the windows of the amateur's eicting-room may be made 

 attractive with such plants during all the spring months by grow- 

 ing a few of the early-flowering kinds. 



In coltivatiug the different so!ts of Cyclamens, it must be 

 observed that some are much hardier than others, and may 

 remaia in the open border all the winter, while some are 

 destroyed by a few decrees of frost; but it must also be re- 

 membered that all suffer alike from excess of moisture duiiug 

 winter; they are therefore best adapted for being grown in pots, 

 as the summer and autumn-flowering kinds may then be pluuged 

 in their pots in thn open borders through the flowering season, 

 taken up Hgain before winter, and placed in some dry situation 

 until the foliowiog season. The Cyclamen is increased in two 

 ways : first by cutting tiie largest tubers to pieces, which is a bad 

 practice, as they are liable to rot during the fir.st season after 

 cutting, or while inadormaotstate, unless the parts are kept very 

 dry — a state very ibjiirious to theearly-floweriug kinds ; secondly 

 by seeds, which should be sown when ripe, whetherit be autumn 

 or spring, in pans or pots, well drained, and filled with a mix- 

 ture of equal parts of sandy loam and leaf mould, to which 

 should be added a smiU portion of well-rotted manure. Then 

 place the pots or pans in a cold frame or pit, to be kept close if 

 sown in the spring; but if sown in the autumn they should be 

 placed on the back shelf of the greenhouse, and kept rather 

 dry during the winter, and the soil gradually watered more as 

 the spring advances. 



The autumn-sown plants will be fit for transplanting about 

 the end of May or beginning of June following if properly 

 treated, while those sown in the spring should not be removed 

 from the seed pans before the fdlowiug spring; they will by 

 that time have formed tubers about the size of a hazel nur. 

 Prepare for them some large pots or pans, well drain, and fiU 

 them with the Rame kind of soil as that in which the seeda were 

 sown, and transplant the young tubers from the seed pans into 

 these, placing tbem about 3 or 4 inches apart, according to 

 their size. Return them to the cold pit or frame, and keep them 

 close until they begin to grow; afterwards admit air freely by 

 day, but keep the pit close at night till the beginning of July, 

 when the pots should be pluuged and the plants fully exposed 

 both day and night, taking care, however, that the soil does not 

 become sodden with too much rain, or become too dry. They 

 will require no trouble except keepiugfree from weeds and slugs 

 till the middle of September, when they should be potted singly 

 into small -IS-sized or 60-pots, according to the size of the roots, 

 filled with the same kiod of soil as that previously used. 



In potting, the tubers should never be entirely covered with 

 the Boil, but about oue-third left exposed. When potted they 

 should lie placed on the hack shelf of the greenhouse or in a cold 

 pit, where they can be kept diy and free from frost until they 

 begin to grow. If tbej" ar^ early flowering kinds a few may be 

 placed in the wiudow of the sitting-room, and but sparingly 

 watered until they commence growing, when they should have 

 a more liberal supply. 



The plHott? will begin to bloom in the second season, and 

 may be placed nn the shelves of the greenhouse, or if they are 

 hardy kinds which fl')tver in summer or autumn, the pots may 

 be plunged in the open border. When done flowering they 

 should be returued to the cold pit or frame, where the lights 

 must be kept on during the night in cold aud wet weather, but 

 let them have plenty of air at all times, observing as they cease 

 growing that water should be withheld, and finally the roots 



should be gradually dried. The tubers, when dry, should be 

 allowed to remain in their pots, and not bo shaken out as i3 

 frequently done, for when taken out of the soil they are almost 

 sure to get too much dried before they are again potted ; this is 

 particularly the case with the early-flowering sorts. 



The proper time of the year for resting the flowering roots 

 entirely depends on the sorts. C. persicum will be at re»*t when 

 C. europaeum and C. neapolitanum will be in full bloom, and 

 vice versa. 



Cyclamens should be shaken from the soil aud repotted directly 

 the least sign of vegetation is observable, but the early spring- 

 flowering kinds may be forced earlier into blooom by potting a 

 few of the strongest roots sooner, and placing them in a warm 

 dry place; they must not be excited too rapidly or watered 

 freely, for if they are the leaves are almost sure to damp-off 

 during the dull winter months, and particularly those of the 

 beautiful C. persicum and its varieties. 



Preserving Bulbs. — As far as my experience extends bulbs 

 generally keep well in the ground, especially Hyacinths, which^ 

 when taken up, manifest a strong tendency to decay, although 

 they rarely fail to appear again when left alone Jrom season to 

 season. Tulips and Crocuses are less subject to disease when 

 dried aud put away during the summer, but in the ground they 

 never suffer at all. Why, then, is it considered indispensable to 

 remove bulbs every year ? Not for their safety, as every gardener 

 knows, but for the maintenance of their good qualities. Tulips 

 left in the ground only for one season will deieriorate in their 

 bloom the second year. But it is worthy of inquiry why the 

 flowers of bulbous plants lose their size and beauty unless the 

 roots are taken up every year. I cannot pretend to answer th© 

 question, which requires a physiological acquaintance with the 

 structure and functions of bulbs, and an exteubive collt-ction of 

 facta, but will merely throw out a suggestion to which others 

 may give a practical bearing. Is it not the division of the bulbs^ 

 the separation of the offsets, and the replanting into the new 

 soil which keeps up the quality of the flowers ? If so, and if 

 being kept out of the ground some months has nothing to do 

 with this effect, then the safest mode of treating bulbs will be 

 to dig them up, divide, aud replant at once. This theory, which 

 has led to practical results in the case of the Potato, may be 

 equally applicable to Tulips and Hyacinths. But supposing th© 

 system of harvebting is adopted, care must be taken that the 

 foliage is fully decayed before the roots are raised, as this is th© 

 only certain proof that the bulb is at rest. Before this time th© 

 elaboration of juices is not con^lete, and the waut of consolida- 

 tion will expose its subject to premature decay. When th© 

 ground is wanted for other things, bulbs may be carefully re- 

 moved with a spade to another spot without disturbing the soil 

 about them, and they may mature themselves without being 

 grudged time and opportunity for that important work ; but at 

 all events they must be ripe. When this state is ascertained 

 let them be taken up and dried, first in the shade and afterwards 

 in the sun. The collection may be stored away until planting 

 time. 



The Ranunculus cannot be left in the groimd without injury 

 to the routs and the future bloom, and its drying is an important 

 part of the florist's duty. The object should be to secure & 

 plumpness of the fangs of the root, and at the same time suffi- 

 cient dryness to resist mildew. If Ranunculuses are exposed to 

 the air too much when first taken up they shrivel and perish 

 during the summer from atrophy. They must be dried very 

 gradually, and then. put away in drawers, each kind being en- 

 closed in a little paper bag. — W. Keane. 



DOINGS OF THE LAST AND PRESENT WEEKS. 



KITCHEN GVBDEN. 



Planted-out a fresh lot of Celery. The earliest has run to 

 flower, as it invariably does to a large extent in our soil. The 

 sure road to success, if that is attainable under all circumstances^ 

 is to keep the plants growing freely. A check of any sort will 

 cause them to "bolt;" especially is this the case when the seeds 

 are sown in pans or boxes, and the plants raised on hotbeds. 



Asparagus is making good growth. Now is the time to apply 

 liquid manure or surface-dressing of any rich stimulant — auano, 

 salt, itc , and wash it in with clear water. Just in proportion as 

 the plants are attended to now. and encouraged to make strong" 

 healthy growth, so much will be the quality of Asparagus im- 

 proved fur next spring. We very seldom can find time to place 

 sticks to it ; otherwise, if a stout stick be placed to each crown^ 

 aud the stalks are tied to it, their being broken by the wind will 

 be prevented. If the stalks are snapped at the base by the 

 wind or in any other way long before they have completed their 

 growth, the crowns must be weakened in proportion. Th© 

 growers for the Paris maiket are as careful of their plants when 

 making the summer growth as Dahlia-growers are with their 

 Dahlias. Such wonderful heads as they send to market could 

 not be produced if no more care were taken of the plants than 

 we see in many English gardens. 



Sea-kale. — We u&ually obtain from amongst that sown in 

 spring a fair proportion of crowns for forcing daring the sue- 



