52 



JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 



[ Jsinoary 20, 1876. 



to be elected at the Anntial MeetiEgon the 8th of February: — 

 President, Et. Hon. Lord Aberdare ; Treasurer, Henry Webb ; 

 Secretary, Robert Hogg; Fxpetifes Committeemen, William 

 Campion, Henry Webb, and Vice-Admiral W. W. Hornby; 

 Auditors, Conrad H. Pinches, James F. West, and John Lee. 



MUSK AS A BORDER PLANT. 



Not nearly bo freely is this odoriferous old favourite plant 

 employed in borders as it ought to be. Being quite hardy the 

 least poesible amount of labour is needed in cultivation. For 

 the sides of walks in partial shade, and especially in moist 

 places, it is admirably adapted as a carpet plant, and it will 

 fill the air with its refreshing perfume. It is one of the most 

 popular of pot plants, and is equally at home in the cottage 

 and conservatory. But cottagers and gardeners have not yet 

 recognised its value as a border plant, or Musk beds would be 

 aa common as Mint beds. 



In light dry soils and in hot situations, however, it does not 

 flourish, but in strong and moist soil and in shady spots it 

 luxuriates. Plant it in some dUmp nook where scarcely any- 

 thing else will grow, or by the margin of the streamlet, and 

 it will grow with a vigour that cannot be equalled by plants 

 grown under glass. And how easily is it raised 1 A thousand 

 plants can be had for sixpence with a little care in raising 

 the seed. 



The seed should be sown any time in the spring months. 

 It will germinate at a low temperature such as a greenhouse or 

 vinery affords, but a genial atmosphere is required to grow-on 

 the young seedlings. Where heat is sufficient the seed may 

 be sown now and very strong plants will be had by May ; but 

 where artificial heat, say of 50°, is not provided for growing-on 

 the plants the sowing of the seed had better be deferred until 

 February or March, when the natural and increasing heat of 

 spring will make the greenhouse sufficiently warm for the 

 young seedlings. 



The seed is very small and requires a little careful treat- 

 ment. The soil must be rich and very fine, and be thoroughly 

 soaked before the seed is sown. Sow thinly, and lightly dust 

 over it pure sand. Shade the pot or pan and place it in water, 

 BO that the soil is kept regularly moist without applying water 

 to the surface. When the seedlings are large enough trans- 

 plant them an inch or two apart in other pots or boxes, using 

 rich soil, watering them copiously when established and grow- 

 ing, but until then somewhat moderately ; yet they must never 

 be dry. Gradually harden the plants off, and plant them out 

 in May. It is only a question of room and boxes as to how 

 many plants are raised, for few plants will grow more freely 

 and satisfactorily. If showing signs of becoming drawn pinch 

 out the tops. A cool frame after March is the beet place to 

 prepare the plants, the atmosphere of a house being frequently 

 too dry. 



When once established in the borders the Musk will push 

 np each succeeding spring as thick as grass, and plants from 

 a store bed may be drawn and transplanted like Cabbages in 

 the months of April or May. Seed sown in the open ground 

 will also germinate freely if the surface can be shaded and 

 kept constantly moist. — Amatecb. 



CYCLAMEN SPECIES. 



The article of Mr. Eobson (page 2) on the species of Cyclamen 

 in ordinary cultivation opens up a subject which must be of 

 interest to lovers of the plant. Without doubt there is some 

 confusion in the names given to hardy sorts in gardens. The 

 C. enropeum of one is hedersefolia of another, which latter 

 name is given by Miss Annie Pratt as blooming from July to 

 September ; according to Loudon it is a spring bloomer. 



Are there really more hardy species in cultivation than 

 enropeum and coum ? C. europeum, both pink and white 

 varieties, seeds freely here, and I fancy has the same tendency 

 to sport as the varieties of persicnm. The bed containing them 

 is annually dressed with leaf mould, which facilitates the bury- 

 ing of the seeds by the contracting stalk, yet only a few seed- 

 lings come up annually. Last season I gathered part of the 

 seed from which I have some scores of plants that are yet too 

 young to decide whether the apparent serrate, crenate, and 

 entire leaves will be permanent. There is certainly some 

 variety in the older plants self-sown. 



I know of no plant more worthy of extended cultivation than 

 the hardy Cyclamen. A bed once eeen in full bloom, especially 



the later bloom after the leaves have beguu^to come up, is not 

 easily forgotten. — E. C, Castle Gardens, St.^Fagan's. 



ROSES GRAFTED ON THE BRIAR'S ROOTS. 



In answer to the inquiry of " An Old Scescbieer" for more 

 information on this subject, I may remark that any of the 

 Briars will answer except the Sweet Briar. As to thickness, I 

 use both large and small roots if they have but one fibre on 



Fig. 13. 



them. I cut them into convenient lengths. I like them beat 

 5 or inches long. The Rose shoots must be ripe and firm. 

 The length is immaterial, but I generally have them the same 

 length as the roots. If the root is a good one and strong' I 

 put on quite a strong branch. I sometimes use a piece of moss 

 over the binding or a small portion of clay. If the Rose graft 

 fits one side of the root that is all that is required. I use a 

 small chisel to open the cut of large roots to insert the graft. 

 If your correspondent will use a small tenon saw to cut the 

 long roots into proper lengths he will find it much easier, ae 

 the Briar roots are very hard. Potting I think will not 

 answer ; the open ground is the best, planting firmly in 

 fresh soil. A dung bed would root them quicker, but they 

 suffer if not carefully hardened off. Whip grafting, as shown 

 in figs. 13 and 14, also wedge grafting, figs. 15 and 16, may be 



Fig. 15. 



Fig. 14. 



adopted as is most convenient, the stocks '(b, _ 



portion of root having more or less of fibres attached, the 



scions (a) being well-ripened Rose shoots. — J. C. 



Fig. IG. 

 I fig. 14), being a 



' J. C." deserves the thanks of your readers for calling their 



