FebnuuT S, 1876. } 



JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 



97 



the pot. Some varietioB strike roots much sooner than others ; 

 the Perpetnal-flowcring Picotees, Prince of Orange, and Ascot 

 Yellow are the moBt difficalt. We generally propagate them 

 from layers. It is necessary to put in the cuttings of these use- 

 ful Carnations thus early, so that the plants may be of large 

 flowering size before they are taken into the house for the 

 winter. — J. Douglas. 



HORTICULTURAL EXHIBITIONS. 



Secretaries will oblige us by informing us of the dates on 

 which exhibitions are to be held. 

 Bristol (Spring Show). March 22nd and 23rd. Mr. G. WeWey, Holm 



Wood, Westbury-upon-Trym, Hon. Sec. 

 BoYAL Caledonian Horticultural Society. Shows April 5th, July 5th, 



and September 13th. 

 Webtminster Aquarium. April 12th and l.'Uh, May 10th and 11th, May 



30th and 3lBt. July 5th and 6th, October 4th and 5th. 

 Southampton. June 5th, and Auguet the Gth and 7th. Mr. C. S. Fuidge, 



89, York Street. Sec. 

 Maidstone (RoBes). June 2lBt. Mr. Hubert Beneted, Rooketow, Maid- 



etone, See. 

 Spalding. June 2lBt. Mr. G. Kingston, Sec. 

 Richmond. June 29th. Mr. A. Chancellor, Hon. Sec. 

 Sodthport. July 6th, 7tb, and 8th. Mr. E. Martin, Sec, 

 Helensburgh (Koees). July 12th and ISth. Mr. J. Mitche'l. Sec. 

 Brighodse. July 29th. MeserB. C. Jessop & E. Rawnsley, Hon. Sees. 

 Seaton Burn. August 26th. Mr. R. Richardson and Mr. W. Ellott, Sees. 

 Dundee (International). September 7th, 8th, and 9th. Mr. W. R. McKelvie, 



26, Euclid Crescent, Soc. 



TRADE CATALOGUES RECEIVED. 



John Laing, Stanstead Park Nurseries, Forest Hill, Lon- 

 don, S.B.—Cataloguc of Garden^ Flower ^ ami Farm Seeds, Im- 

 plements, d'C. 



Wood & Ingram, Knntijigdon,— Select List of Garden and 

 Agricultural Seeds. 



Little & Ballantyne, Carlisle.— Z^^us^ra^c^Z Spring Seed Guide 

 and General Catalogue. 



Brnnning & Co., The Nurseries, Great Yarmouth.— ZZ;»s- 

 trated Seed Catalogue with Select List of Gladioli. 



Stuart & Mein, Kelso. — Illustrated Catalogue of Seeds and 

 Moots, and Select List of Gladioli. 



Richard Bradley & Sons, Halam, near Southwell, Notts. — 

 Catalogues of Roses and General Nursery Stock. 



David Gold McKay, Market Hill. Sudbury, Suffolk.— Oa^a/o^i/e 

 of SeedSy Gladioli, and Garden Bequisites. 



TO CORRESPONDENTS. 



*^* All correspondence should be directed either to *' The 

 Editors," or to " The Pablisher." Letters addressed to 

 Mr. Johnson or Dr. Hogg often remain unopened unavoid- 

 ably. We request that no one will write privately to any 

 of our correspondents, as doing so subjects them to un- 

 justifiable trouble and expense. 



Correspondents should not mix up on the same sheet questions 

 relating to Gardening and those on Poultry and Bee sub- 

 jects, and should never send more than two or three 

 questions at once. All articles intended for insertion 

 should be written on one side of the paper only. We 

 cannot reply to questions through the post. 



Overcharge for this Journal (W. F.).— Your bookseller was wrong. 

 No extra charge was made by ub for the Title and Index. 



Book on Floriculture (T. L. B.). — There is no standard work on flori- 

 onltare, giving detailed and precise inttractiona. Such a work would require 

 to he extremely voluminouB, and be too costly for the acceptance of horti- 

 culturieta generally. Our "Florista' Flowers," 5d. ; *' Indoor and Outdoor 

 Gardening," Is l\d. each; "Greenhouse Manual," lOti., and the "Cottage 

 Gardener's Dictionary," 7s. 2(^, would give you all the information required. 

 They may be had free by post from our office at the prices named. 



Felton Park (Miss J.).— Near Acblington, Northumberland. 



Examination of Gardeners (J. J, S.). — We are informed that there will 

 be no examination this year by Ihe Royal Horticultural Society. 



Fear Scions on Apple Stocks {W. Saiiders). — Pear scions will unite to 

 Paradise Apple stocks, but they will not live. 



Garden Plans (Alpha). — We know of no work for your purpose. There 

 are very many plans in our back volumes which you could draw from, and 

 learn there how they were effectively planted. 



Holly Heeoe (If. E. L.). — You ask what distance apart should the " trees " 

 be planted ? The question must be decided entirely by their size. We 

 have planted them when smill at 6 inches apart, and when larger at 2 feet 

 distanoes, and the hedges, now are equally good. Loosen the soil well and 

 plant so that the foliage of one " tree " touches that of the other without 

 any crowding or preeslng. To insure uniformity of growth we should plant 

 Bolely the common green Holly, on which when the hedge has attained nearly 

 its fall size, variegated sorts may be grafted at intervals for ornamental 

 effect. 



Stove and Greenhodse Arrangement {E. H. D.). — We presume you 

 have a dupUcate copy of the queries you have submitted. No. 1, Yes. 2, Have 

 4-iaoh pipes. 3, Add a foot of tan or fermenting manure and leaves, and on 

 this plaoe a foot of soil for Cuoombers. For plunging plants use tan or 



cocoa-nut fibre. 4, Ample for the greenhouse. 6, It is much preferable. 

 6, If the coke supply is constant a tubular ; if not, a saddle. 7, Yes, it will do 

 very well. On the point of piping arrangement and other practical matter;! 

 you would find the advice of a ncighbouriog gardener valuable. Invite a man 

 of ability to half an hour'w diHciisnioii on the spot. In fixing hot-wator pipes 

 the llnvv-pipe hhmild be taken from the top of the boiler and rise gradually to 

 the higliest point, and then return with an easy decline to the bottom of the 

 boiler, the pipes in no part sinking below the bottom o( the boiler. At the 

 highent point in the piping insert an air-pipe, and the boiler feed cistern 

 shuuld bo level with the hinhent part of the piping, the pipe from the oiatern 

 entering the boiler at the bottom, or, which is often more convenient, enter- 

 ing the return-pipe close to the boiler. 



Destbovinq American Blight (2*. Hof/f/).— This dcstructivo pent is not 

 a bug, but an aphis— viz., Aphis lanigera. It is best prevented and destroyed 

 by dressing the trees infested with paraffin oil, applying with a brush, more 

 partii.'ularly to the excrescencea caused by the aphis in the bark, brushing it 

 well into those parts and the angles and crevices. It is best done in March, 

 or before the buds commence growing, but may be applied during growth to 

 the parts attacked, keeping from the foliage. 



Blue Lobelia 'J. P.).— There is no better than a good strain of Lobelia 

 epeciosa ; we find nothing better than Veitch's strain, Crystal Palace compacta 

 being very good. Last season was a very unfavourable one for Lobelias. 



Hardiness of Cryptomeria eleqans (IiUm).—Ii has stood unharmed 

 in a hij^'h and exposed situation several winters, and would no doubt succeed 

 as a specimen tree in a park, but would need to be fenced against cattle, and 

 made proof against hares and rabbits, the hares leaping with us netting 

 30 inches high. Upon the spray of the Cryptomeria they feed greedily. It 

 is a very graceful tree of deep chocolate tint. 



Bepotting Hollies [W. Berry).— Turn the plants out of the pots at the 

 close of March, and remove with a pointed wtick all the soil that can bo 

 picked out from the roots without injuring the fibres; or if the soil be in a 

 sodden state and the loots few remove all the soil, and in repotting work the 

 Boil in amongst and between the roots, not crowding them together, but 

 spreading evenly through the soil, keeping the setting-on of the roots or the 

 neck of the plants level with the rim of the pots, potting moderately firmly, 

 leaving space below the rim for watering of about an inch. Good drainage 

 should be provided, and a compost of rather strong fibrous loam, with a 

 fourth of well-rotted manure, will grow them well. Plunge in ashes in a 

 slightly shaded situation, Kprinkling overhead twice a'-iay in dry weather 

 until they are growing freely, but do not water at the roots more than to 

 keep the soil moist, and when established remove to an opou situation, water- 

 ing freely as the growth progresses, and always keeping moist. 



Potting Camellias {T. L. B.).— It may be done directly after the flower- 

 ing period, or before fresh growth is made, and any pruning required should 

 be done at the sume time. If the pruning be at all free the plants will need 

 to be placed in iiiuiat heat to secure their breaking freely. The potting may 

 also be performed in late August or early September, the bads being then 

 well formed. We usually prefer the latter time for pottiog, the roots being 

 in a healthy state ; but if much removal of soil is necessary, the roots being 

 in a bad state, spring potting is preferable, encouraging root-action by a 

 brisk moist heat. 



Dr. Dennv'9 and Mr. George's New Pelargoniums (Idem).— They 

 have been sent out by different nurserymen, and we cannot advise you other 

 than to consult our advertising colunins, where they will be aunounced in 

 due course. 



Phaius grandiflorus Culture (W. JD. -4.).— After flowering the plants 

 will start into growth, and require the soil to be kept moist, and at no time 

 very dry, though considerably drier when at rest than when growing, when it 

 should be freely watered. They require moderate pot-room and a compost of 

 equal parts of fibrous loam and brown sandy peat, with a fourth part of old 

 dry cow dung, using the soil rather rough. The old pseudobulbs are of no 

 use for flowering, but so long as they remain fresh should not be removed. 

 Repot after flowering. The growth of this year wUJ, if well matured, flower 

 the ensuing winter or spring. 



LiBONiA FLORiPUNDA NOT FLOWERING (Idcm). — You growiu too high and 

 moist an atmosphere, the plant being kept constantly growing. We grow 

 ours in a greenhouse in a light airy position, the plants being now far ad- 

 vanced for flowering. Justicia apeciota does not flower because the plants 

 are grown in too high a temperature and have not sufficient light and air. 

 Gesnera zebrina will succeed admirably in a cool stove having a slight shade 

 and moist atmosphere during growth. 



Planting Vines (C. W. Milne).— FlB-nt in March, turning them out of the 

 pots, disentangling the roots and spreading them out evenly over the border, 

 and covering with from 4 to 6 inches of soil. Black Hamburgh, Foster's 

 White Seedling, and Venn's Black Muscat will suit you. 



Pruning Outdoor Vine (5. il.).— We should not cai the Vine back more 

 than to remove any unripened growth, and should train the cane horizontally 

 at a foot distance from the ground, and when the eyes are broken and a few 

 inches long rub off all the shoots on the under side and (rout, leaving a shoot 

 at every la inches distance, every second of which is to be trained upright and 

 to the top of the wall without stopping, then take out the point of each, 

 stopping the laterals at the first joint, and do that throughout the season. 

 The first shooL taken to the top of the wall or retained for that purpose 

 should be 18 inches from the end of the wall, from whence the Vine starts, 

 and the next that is to be taken up the wall 3 feet distance from it, and eo on. 

 A shoot should be taken from the end of the Vine, training it upward, or 

 nearly so, and in the autumn following it may be brought down to the hori- 

 zontal position, and shoots originated from it as upon the other of a previous 

 year's growth. In this way you will originate the rods for covering the wall, 

 and from which jou will in due course have shoots for bearing. The shoots 

 between the principal canes should be stopped at the sixth leaf if they do 

 not show fruit, and, if fruiting, at one joint beyond the bunch, and the laterals 

 to one leaf. 



Peach, Nectarine, and Apricot Trees Fungus (A New Beginner).— 

 The mould or parasitic fungus upon the shoots of the potted trees where tho 

 leaves were eiiuated is a result of damp, and we do not think in anywise 

 injurious to the trees. It will, if it be what we suspect, disappear upon a 

 good syringing, which should not, however, be given before March, or until 

 the buds commence swelling. We should dress the trees with u mixture of 

 4 ozs. of soft soap to a gall^in of tobacco juice, brought to the consistency of 

 thin paint by the addition of flowers of sulphur, applying with a brush to 

 every part at once, taking care not to dislocate the buds. It is good against 

 insecte, and will not injure the trees if it be done carefully, the brush being 



