164 



JOURNAL OP HOBTICDLTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 



I March 2, 1876. 



crimson, the onter edge of the segments edged with creamy 

 white. 



Bcv. J. Stainfortlt is the largest and best-shaped flower in 

 the collection. It measures nearly 7 inches across. The seg- 

 ments are marbled and spotted with crimson ; the centre is 

 pale yellowith white, with lighter stripes down the centre of 

 each petal. 



Pluthe. — Dazzling scarlet, with a greenish yellow centre. A 

 very striking flower. 



Thomas Moore is well worthy of the name it bears. The 

 flowers are of the largest size, in the way of Junias, but suffi- 

 ciently distinct from it. 



Mi'dra. — Purplish crimson, with greenish centre. 



Electro is of tbe pardinum type, and the best I have yet 

 seen of this class ; the crimson spotting on a pale yellow ground 

 is very effective. 



Kara. — A large reddish crimson flower, the segments beau- 

 tifully rounded at the edge. The shape is very perfect. 



Camilla. — This is a very pretty flower and the lightest- 

 coloured one in the collection. The segments are creamy 

 white, marked at the base with crimson. 



To the above I would like to add a few remarks on culture. 

 In the first place a suitable compost must be obtained. I 

 have tried various composts, and have been most successful 

 when good turfy medium loam was used, adding only some 

 well-decayed stable manure and a little sand. A mistake is 

 made if the pots are large; G-inch pots are snfticient for the 

 largest bulbs. The small bulbs are potted in (iO's and small 

 48'e. The best time to pot is when the bulbs are at rest. 

 After carefully draining the pots place some very tough fibrous 

 loam over the drainage, then (ill the pot with the compost. The 

 bulb should not be planted deeply ; quite two-thirds of it 

 should be above the surface, and the mould should be pressed 

 in quite firmly. Our bulbs were potted this season a week or 

 two before starting them. The bulbs had been in the pots in 

 which they had flowered, and the pots were placed after growth 

 was completed in a cool vinery, so that they had at least three 

 months of a resting period. 



I prefer to start the bulbs in a temperature of 55°, increasing 

 it if the flowers are required early to G5" at night after the 

 flowers show. This year they were placed at once on a shelf 

 ia the Pine house, and they have done remarkably well. The 

 succulent roots protruding as thick as gnose quills and in 

 great abundance above the surface mould in the pots, and the 

 corresponding sturdy growth of the plants, show tliat they 

 have the treatment they require. Some growers recommend 

 that the pots be plunged in bottom heat at the time they are 

 started into growth. I have tried this, and do not think that 

 it is so satisfactory as placing the pots on shelves near the 

 glass. We water sparingly at first, but when the fresh roots 

 have reached the sides of the pots water is applied more freely. 

 The atmosphere of the house is kept only moderately moist. 

 Tbe flowers sometimes show before the leaves, sometimes 

 flowers and leaves come up at the same time, end not unfre- 

 quently the leaves make considerable progress before the flowers 

 throw up. Like most bulbous plants the Amaryllis comes to 

 its full development very rapidly. Two to four flowers are the 

 usual number on the stalk, and when the first that opens is 

 about fully developed the plant may be removed to the show 

 house, where the flowers will continue in beauty for a week or 

 ten days. Of course it they have been in a night temperature 

 of C5° it will not be good management to expose them all at 

 once to the free air of a greenhouse or conservatory ; draught* 

 of air would certainly injure the flowers. One end of the 

 bouse should be kept closer for a few days after plants have 

 been brought in from the forcing houses. 



When the flowers have done blooming the plants are again 

 placed in heat until the bulbs have completed their growth, 

 and until that period they are watered freely ; but when 

 the leaves show signs that the bulbs are nearly ripe water 

 is gradually withheld, the leaves fade, and no more water 

 is given until it is time to start them into growth again. 

 All through the growing period the plants are fully exposed 

 to the sun. 



I have made the above remarks on culture, having found 

 the system to answer. But the Amaryllis is becoming almost 

 universally cultivated, and other raisers of novelties besides 

 the Messrs. Veitch are at work. Mr. Williams of Holloway 

 has exhibited some fine flowers of a diiiferent type. A lai-ge 

 number of very flne seedhng forms have been exhibited from 

 the gardens of Charles Kieser, Esq., of Broxbourne, and 

 Messrs. E. G. Henderson & Sons have a large collection. No 



doubt there are other cultivators who have had different 

 experience, and any cultural notes would be very useful from 

 them. — J. DouGL.is. 



ROSES ON THEIR OWN ROOTS. 



I WAS rather surprised to see in one of the late numbers of 

 the Journal of Horticulture that Mr. Camm altogether con- 

 demns Ptoses on their own roots. There are a few kinds that 

 strike readily from cuttings taken with a heel even as late as 

 October, and make good plants in a short time. 



In October, 1873, I put in about a thousand cuttings of 

 about twenty of the best varieties. They were taken with a 

 heel and were well trodden-in in a trench made as if for plant- 

 ing Box, a little sharp road sand being first put at the bottom 

 of the trench. The result was that Countess of Oxford, John 

 Hopper, and Edward Morren almost all grew, and by the 

 autumn made plants having beautiful roots as large as the 

 plants on Manetti usually supplied by the trade. They were 

 taken up in the autumn of 1874 and planted out in beds, and 

 by last October had made capital plants, many of them having 

 produced blooms fine enough for competition at any but the 

 best shows. I put in more cuttings iu October, 1871, with very 

 much the same result as to the varieties which struck best. 

 Some kinds — Madame Vidot, for instance — would not strike 

 at all, but those which did strike grew for the most part as 

 well as could be desired. 



When John Hopper first came out I struck about a dozen 

 cuttings of it taken from forced plants ; they made fine plants 

 in the course of two or three years, and are still in a prosperous 

 condition, producing annually a fine crop of blooms. In short, 

 I am much inclined to think that Roses on their own roots 

 are not the mistake which Mr. Camm believes them to be. I 

 have grown Roses by thousands for a good many years on the 

 common Briar, the seedling Briar, and the Manetti ; but I 

 think that if I were about to estabhsh a rosarium now I should 

 goiu for H P.'s on their own roots. Teas do much better as 

 a rule on the common Briar. — R. B. P. 



LIBONIA FLORIBUNDA CULTURE. 



As a greenhouse plant there are few more worthy of cultiva- 

 tion than the above. Insert the cuttings in March, twelve in 

 a 48-pot. They will strike freely in a compost of turfy loam 

 and silver sand, the pots to be placed in a gentle hotbed. 

 When rooted pot singly into 3-inch pots, using three parts 

 turfy loam, one part old cow manure, one part silver sand, with 

 some small pieces of charcoal. When established harden-off 

 and grow in a cold frame, shift into 48-pots before the roots are 

 matted together, and never let the soil become dry. In Sep- 

 tember move the plants into the greenhouse, affording them a 

 light position and a temperature of 40' to 45". The plants 

 will flower freely from .January until April, and will not dis- 

 grace the dining table or the drawing-room, the small bright 

 green foliage with the orange and dark brown flowers being 

 very effective. After flowering move them into a temperature 

 from 55° to G0° to make new growth, harden-off, then move 

 them outdoors. 



Libonias make nice standard plants. Cut off all side shoots 

 until 18 inches high, then stop as required to make a nice head 

 18 inches over, which they will do the first season with but 

 Uttle care. Place a plant in the centre of a fruit-stand with 

 fruit round it. Place the stand in the centre of the dining 

 table, and with a good plant of Gesnera Bewleyii on each 

 side the effect is most beautiful, especially by gaslight. The 

 Libonia will not flower in a high and moist atmosphere. — 

 G. S., Fanlkners House Gardens. 



Exhibition of Clematises. — We are informed that Messrs. 

 Jaokman & Sons of Woking have made arrangements to hold 

 an Exhibition of Clematises in the Royal Botanic Society's 

 Garden, Regent's Park, similar to the gorgeous display which 

 was made last year. The exhibition is to be opened on the 

 1st of May. 



THE ARRANGEMENTS OF COLOURS 



IN THE BEDS OF THE LONDON PARKS AND GARDENS.— No. 8. 



The designs submitted are distinct from those which have 

 been previously figured. The effect of tbe beds when planted 

 was very good , and the arrangement of the colours was gene- 



