258 



JOURNAL OP HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 



[ Maroh 30, 1876. 



of the roots to pieces, as much of the soil containing the roots 

 wOl be left at the sides of the pots. 



Good drainage comes next. I dare say it is pretty well 

 understood that drainage must vary in quantity according to 

 the size of the pots and the sort of soil to be need. For instance, 

 if all loam and sand is used there would be no harm in placing 

 more drainage in the pots to take off the w iter than if lighter 

 soil was used. I ought to mention that pots should be kept 

 clean outside as' well as inside, not only for appearance sake but 

 also for the well-being of the plant, especially if that plant is 

 an expensive Camellia, Heath, or Azalea. The pores of the pot 

 should not be stopped up from accumulations of green filth such 

 as are seen on sj many pots when they are negltcted. 



The spring ia the time when most potting is done, because 

 most plants have a season's growth before them, and as a rule 

 it is better to keep a plant rather cramped at the roota on the 

 approach of winter, for too much pot room then would involve 

 injury, because the root and branches are in most oases less 

 active at that period than in the summer. 



Pruning and potting ought not to be done at the same time. 

 It is safest to prune first ; then, when the plant has burst its buds, 

 such as the Fuchsia and most other deciduous plants, then pot- 

 ting may be done, because through the plant breaking into leaf 

 the roots become active and are more capable of taking hold of 

 fresh soil. Softwooded plants such as Calceolarias, Petunias, 

 young Fuchsias, and Cinerarias, often require shifting into a 

 larger pot when no prnning is needed ; these are what I call one- 

 eeason plants. The object is to obtain as large a plant as pos- 

 sible before it flowers ; and a pretty sure guide when such plants 

 require pot room and nourishment is when the roots show freely 

 on the surface or at the bottom of the pot. But there is a varia- 

 tion from this rule in the case of the Cineraria or Calceolaria. 

 If lar^e healthy plants are wanted they should not be allowed 

 to show their roots, for this causes the stems to become hard 

 and throw up flowers prematurely. These plants must be turned 

 out of the pots, and if the soil is fairly studded with roots larger 

 pots must be afforded them. 



Hardwooded plants of the Azalea, Camellia, Heath, and 

 Myrtle type, which only require potting once a-year, should not 

 be potted till after flowering and when a fair amount of fresh 

 growth has been made In the case of Camellias there is a 

 difference of opinion as to the proper time to pot them. Some 

 say the roots are in the greatest activity when the branches are 

 making growth, and others say it is when the bloom buds are 

 well set, and therefore the potting ought to be done then. I 

 agree with the former opinion. It appears to be against nature 

 to interfere with a plant when it shows signs of fruiting or 

 flowering. I think it is likely to be one cause of the buds drop- 

 ping BO much. Everyone should take the best advice and use 

 their judgment according to the state of the plants. — T. Record. 



DOINGS OF THE LAST AND WORK FOR 

 THE PRESENT WEEK. 



HAUDY FRUIT G.IRDEN. 



In most gardens the work of nailing the wall trees will have 

 been finished and the protecting material placed against the 

 walls. There has been much need for it this season, with the 

 Peaches and Nectarines much advanced towards the blooming 

 stage, and Apricots quite in flower. The thermometer has been 

 many degrees below the freezing point for several successive 

 nights. On Sunday the 19th we had 10° of frost, followed by 

 5° on the Monday, 7" on Tuesday, 9° on Wednesday, and again 

 7° on Thursday; the wind which had been high previously 

 calmed down as the frost increaeed, and on the coldest nights 

 there was no wind. Protectors of any light canvas material 

 would mitigate to a large extent the effects of such frosts, and 

 they at least keep the hoar frost from the blossoms ; even if the 

 temperature under the canvas differs but little from that in the 

 open the drier atmosphere is so much better for the blossoms. 

 The frost at Loxford has been usually most intense about 7 a m,, 

 and this tells us not to be too hasty in uncovering in the morn- 

 ing. Between 9 and 10 a.m. ia quite early enough to roll-up the 

 canvas if the day is flue. It is better to let the covering remain 

 all day if the weather is boisterous. We do not think that any 

 of the blossoms upon trees or bushes in the open ground have 

 suffered from frosts. Fortunately the blossoms are not sufii- 

 ciently advanced to receive injury. 



Some persons recommend the root-pruning of fruit trees in 

 March. Certainly it would then be easy to ascertain the trees 

 that would not blossom, but to root-prune severely at this season 

 would cause too great a check. If the trees had not been root- 

 pruned in the autumn, and there was no chance of a crop of 

 fruit, we would root-prune the trees partially this month, and 

 the work ought not to be delayed. 



It was recommended to destroy American blight on Apple 

 trees in the autumn. If some of the insects have survived the 

 dressing given at that time they ought to be destroyed at once. 

 Daub the place where the insects are perceived with a brush 

 dipped in boiled oil. 



Gooseberry and Currant bushes are much advanced in leaf 

 and bud. Our friends the sparrows are very active ; they may 

 eat some of the flower buds, but they seem to pick quantities 

 only to scatter them on the ground. Perhaps the bullfinch ia 

 the most inveterate eater of buds, and notwithstanding hia 

 pretty plumage and noble bearing, it is sometimes necessary to 

 wage persistent war against him with the gun. 



Many persons do not think of planting their fruit trees until 

 they see them start into growth in the spring, and they fancy 

 that it is the best time to purchase the trees in the nursery. Of 

 course experienced gardeners know better, but many amateurs, 

 and especially those who may just have taken to gardening as a 

 hobby and are very sanguine of producing wonderful results in 

 a short time, need information on this point. It may be as well 

 to state for the information of such that all the best trees are 

 selected in the nurseries before Christmas, and that November 

 or December are the best months in which to plant. Planting 

 may still be done, but the trees will not be hkely to make much 

 growth this season. 



When the Apple maggot was abundant in the garden here we 

 have taken quicklime and dusted the trees with it at this season 

 of the year, and have fancied that it was destructive to the pest. 



0RCH.iRD HOUSE. 



The Peach and Nectarine trees are now in full flower, and 

 under their shelter they are quite safe from frosts. Long-con- 

 tinued cold weather with a cloudy atmosphere is much against 

 the flowers setting. At such a time the heating apparatus comes 

 in with excellent effect. 



Brown scale has been troublesome to us for the last few years. 

 The best way to destroy it is to handwash the trees with strong 

 soapy water. This we are now doing. 



Strawberries in pots are making good strong growth. The 

 pots are occasionally watered with weak liquid manure water. 

 We picked the first dish of Black Prince on the 2lBt of the 

 present month. The fruit is large for that variety. 



There are colonies of ants in the Pine house where the fruita 

 are ripe and ripening; they make sad havoc with the best fruit. 

 We destroy them by placing a little sugar in their runs ; they 

 cluster round it and may then be killed. Pouring boiling water 

 down is instant death to them. They also eat greedily of phos- 

 phor paste mixed with sugar. 



VINERIES. 



In the earliest houses the fruit ha? now been thinned-ont, 

 and the berries are swelling very rapidly. After this time there 

 is but little tying and training of 'he shoots required. It is 

 necessary to be very cautious in giving air when keen frost 

 winds are blowing; if the cold air blows directly upon the 

 berries in this early stage of development, probably they will 

 become rusted. We water freely at the roots and maintain a 

 moist growing atmosphere. We have seen others shade their 

 early houses of Vines during scorching hot weather in April and 

 May, and have found it necessary to do so ourselves ; but when 

 it is necessary to do this there is not much chance of obtaining 

 first-class fruit, for if the roots are in active growth and the 

 houses have been properly supplied with atmospheric moisture, 

 with sufficient ventilation to induce firm growth, the leaves will 

 not suffer, and the more sunshine they receive the better it is 

 for the Vines. 



Late houses are now starting freely, and in the case of Muscats 

 and such sorts as Gros Guillaume, Gros Colman, and Mrs. Pince 

 it is as well to keep up a good temperature, so that the Vines 

 may be pushed on at this season, as it is well to have all the 

 above-named late sorts ripened before the dull cold days of 

 September arrive. 



Pot Fines.— These have been repotted and the pots plunged 

 in bottom heat to start them. After the plants begin to grow 

 freely we place the pots on stages, and find that very strong 

 fruiting canes are produced without the aid of bottom heat. 

 The secret of the successful culture of Vines in pots is potting 

 the plants as soon as they require it, and supplying them with 

 a plentiful supply of water when the pots are well filled with 

 roots. They require the same temperature as fruiting Vines — 

 05" to 70° at night with a moist genial atmosphere. 



PEACH HOL'SE. 



In the earliest house the fruits will be going through the stoning 

 period, and it is a great evil to hurry them at this time. The 

 night temperature should range from 55° to G0°. As soon as the 

 fruit takes the second swelling the night temperature may be 

 from C5° to 70°. The trees should be syringed freely about 9 a.m. 

 and when the house ia closed in the afternoon, and the water 

 should be applied with some force. Red spider is remarkably 

 fond of the leaves, and if there should be any trace of it when 

 the fruit begins to ripen the leaves will be quite smothered 

 before all the fruit can be gathered. There is no excuse for this, 

 nor will it be so if the water has been applied with sufiicient 

 force ; it ought to be tepid water. A sufficient quantity for 

 syringing purposes should be always standing in pots over the 

 hot-water pipes. The growths of the trees should be tied down 

 to the trellis as they progress, and we would reiterate former 

 instructions as to thinning out not only the fruit but growths as 



