188 



JOUBNAL OF HOBTICULTUKB AND COTTAGE GAKDENEB. 



[ Fcirnary 2G, 1874. 



'^ At last, stirred into action probably by the prospect of 



the early completion of the new City Fruit and Vegetable 

 Market, the Duke of Bedford has determined to cover-in 

 CovENT Garden Market. An extraordinary general meeting 

 of the Market Gardeners, Nurserymen, and Farmers' Associa- 

 tion was held at the Bedford Head Hotel, Covent Garden, on 

 the 7th inst., to take into consideration the model of the pro- 

 posed covering. Several of the members were of opinion tliat 

 the proposed erection was not high enough, and that the 4 feet 

 left open on either side was very objectionable. The openings 

 at the side and the low roof were stated to be for the con- 

 venience of those persons who occupy the upper rooms over 

 the shops in the centre row. One of the members suggested 

 that the roof should be carried up 4 feet above the parapet of 

 the buUdings on either side, which would afford plenty of light 

 and ventilation to the upper rooms. It was ultimately resolved 

 that a deputation should wait upon the agent to the Duke to 

 thank him for the proposal of covering the market, and to 

 suggest a few alterations and improvements in the model sub- 

 mitted. — (Build hill News.) 



Me. Alfred de Eothschild, the Chairman of the en- 

 suing Gardeners' Eoyal Benevolent Institution Anniversary 

 Dinner, has named Thursday, the 2nd of July, for that pur- 

 pose. It is the day after the great Hose Show at Kensington, 

 and several of the leading exhibitors have promised to send 

 their plants from the Exhibition to the London Tavern to 

 assist in decorating the rooms. 



Messrs. Sdtton, of the Beading Eoyal Seed Establish- 

 ment, are presenting a coloured geological map with their 

 " Farmers' Year Book." They think it has long been a desi- 

 deratum, as it points out to the farmer and landowner the 

 geological strata of the district in which the farm is situated ; 

 and tables of the Grasses suitable to soils on the strata are 

 given. 



NOTES ON VILLA and SUBURBAN GARDENING. 



The amateur who possesses a gi*eenhouse should, towards the 

 beginning of next month, shift Geraniums that are well rooted, 

 using a rather heavy and rich soU, potting, forcinf;, and keeping 

 the plants well tied out and near the glass. See that Camellias 

 are never allowed to get dry at the root, otherwise you may lose 

 your buds, and do not expose the plants to cutting currents of air. 

 Calceolarias that are well rooted in small pots should now have 

 more pot-room. A soil of half loam and well-decayed dung or 

 leaf mould, with a little sand, suits them well. Pelargoniums 

 which are intended to bloom in the greenhouse must now be re- 

 moved into their flowering pots, and the branches must more- 

 over be tied-out if large symmetrical plants are desired. Those 

 stopped in November will flower in May ; a second lot should 

 now be stopped to flower in June and .July, and a third about 

 the middle of April to bloom in August and September. For 

 growing Pelargoniums I have never found anything equal to 

 the parings of grass edgings, or thin turf one year old, and leaf 

 mould and peat earth in proportions of four parts of the former 

 to two parts of each of the latter roughly mixed together, but 

 not sifted ; in fact I never sift soil under any circumstances, un- 

 less for the purpose of taking the fine particles out, and using 

 the turfy portions only. This compost, with the admixture 

 of a little sand if the plant is delicate, or loam if of luxuriant 

 growth, will answer for all kinds of greenhouse plants, with 

 the exception of Heaths and other delicate-rooted hardwooded 

 plants. 



The best plan is to allow the soil in the pot to have the appear- 

 ance of dryness, but never suflicient to make the plants flag, 

 before a supply is given, which should then be pretty copious ; 

 but always empty water out of the pan or feeder in which the pot 

 stands as soon as the soil is properly drained. The water used for 

 the purpose ought always to be of about the same temperature 

 as the room in which the plants grow. Never use it fresh from 

 the pump ; either let it stand in a warm room all night, or take 

 off the chill by adding a little warm water to it, or the growth of 

 the plants will be much checked. 



The principles of correct planting in the open ground are the 

 same as those which regulate pot culture, allowance being made 

 for the altered circumstances of the plants ; indeed, good planting 

 is even more necessary for plants in pots, since they are so arti- 

 ficially situated, and have so little chance of being liberated from 

 the bad management of man by any intervention of Nature. A 

 tree may j^ossibly get on in spite of the want of skill in the 

 planter, because, the soil being favourable, the roots may escape 

 from their pent-up position, and abundant rains may redispose 

 the clods so unceremoniously thrown upon them ; but let a 

 plant be once badly potted, and its chance of flourishing is gone. 

 The pot presents an impenetrable barrier to the roots, and 

 the water appUed only makes the soil more compact and less 



capable of fulfilling its office. There is also this difference 

 between planting in the open air and in pots : — In the one case 

 the work only requires to be done once, while in the other the 

 operation must often be renewed ; yet how constantly is this 

 particular forgotten by amateurs who are really fond of flowers, 

 whose collections are sickly because the pots are full of labyrinths 

 of roots, which in hopeless continuity perform pilgrimages 

 around the walls of their prison, seeking a loophole for escape. 

 Turn the mass out of the pot, and how curious is the spectacle. 

 The soil, by some strange process, is gone, and in its place there 

 is a coil of vegetable fibre, which in some cases has traversed 

 six times round the pot in search of fresh nutriment. 



The time has now arrived for the florist to bestir himself. 

 Auriculas and Polyanthuses must receive their spring dressing 

 by removing the surface soil of each pot down to the roots, and 

 replacing it with the usual compost. Avoid using rich manure 

 for this or any other flower, for it may be asserted as a natural 

 law, that as all plants like fresh soil and leaf mould, a compost 

 of these two ingredients with a Uttle sand will grow plants as 

 healthy, though possibly not so luxuriantly, as a complicated 

 admixture of more stimulating materials. After the plants are 

 replaced in the frame they must have all the air possible by day 

 and night in mild weather, but must be protected from frost. 

 A gentle shower of rain will not injure them on a mild morning, 

 but take care that the water does not stagnate in the centre of 

 the plant, or the bloom will be injured. 



Ranunculuses and Anemones should be planted now. Car- 

 nations and Picotee layers that have been stored in frames in 

 small pots may now be removed into their blooming ones, taking 

 care that the soil used does not contain wireworms, which are 

 their most deadly enemies. Where there is convenience the 

 plants may be returned to the frame after being potted, but 

 where there ia not they must be so placed together in a sheltered 

 place that they can be protected from rains. Sow Carnation 

 seed in pots or seed-pans, and protect it from rain and vermin. 



In the flower garden finish the pruning of Roses ; in doing so 

 thin-out the weak shoots, and shorten the strong and well- 

 ripened ones to four or six buds according to their strength. 

 Strong-growing kinds such as Brennus, Fulgens, Triomphe 

 d'Angers, and others of similar habit, with most of the Noisette 

 Roses, when budded on tall stems make beautiful objects if in- 

 stead of being shortened the shoots are turned down and tied to 

 the lower parts of the stem. In the borders sow Sweet Peas 

 and Larkspurs, and prepare tor general sowings of annuals next 

 month ; but do not rake the borders at present, or they will be 

 rendered almost impenetrable for the whole of the season. Hoe 

 or fork them over 2 or 3 inches deep as often as you please, but 

 do not rake them until the dry winds of March have abstracted 

 a little of the superfluous moisture from the soil. For the sake 

 of a few days' neatness in the early part of the spring, we fre- 

 quently do more injury to the soil and summer flowers than can 

 be remedied during the remainder of the season. 



When the weather will permit, edgings of various kinds may 

 be planted, such as Box, Thrift, Daisies, London Pride, or 

 Gentianella ; but while it continues cold care must be taken of 

 anything liable to be injured by frost. 



VEGET.tBLEs. — As soou as the weather is favourable a small 

 sowing of Peas and Beans may be made, and as the busy season 

 is at hand everything that can now be done should be forwarded 

 before that time. Ground intended for Onions and Carrots may 

 be pointed over and well broken-up. Alterations and improve- 

 ments (if any), around the villa should be proceeded with. 



Fruit. — If any fruit trees remain to be pruned they should be 

 finished now ; the Grape Vine especially, if not cut in autumn, 

 must not be delayed.— W. ICeane. 



DOINGS OF THE LAST AND PRESENT WEEKS. 



kitchen and fruit garden. 

 Protecting Blossom from Spring Frosts. — The forward state 

 of the blossoms of Apricot trees demands that steps should 

 be taken to protect them from frosts. Peach trees on south 

 walls are also in a forward state, indeed more so than those 

 gi-own in orchard houses. In many large gardens glass cases 

 have been erected against the walls, and under good manage- 

 ment they are certainly most efficient protectors. Some have 

 gone so far as to cover their walls with glass in this way, and 

 have fixed hot-water pipes as well. The ordinary coverings 

 are formed of canvas, which is roUed-up under a wood or stone 

 coping in the daytime. Moveable wooden copings are the best; 

 these may be made to project about 11 inches over the trees, 

 beiug required only when the trees are in flower. They may be 

 removed to a place under cover at other times, and will thus 

 last much longer than if they were constantly exposed to the 

 weather. We have used various materials for protecting the 

 blossoms of fruit trees from frost. Frigi-domo and a material 

 made by Collinge & Son, of Peel Street, Manchester, are the 

 best we are at present acquainted with. The way to manage 

 with the shading is to have poles laid against the wall and let 

 into the ground about a foot. The poles need not come out more 



