224 



JOURNAL OF HORTIOOLTUEE AND COTTAGE GABDENEB. 



i: Slaich 12, 1874. 



for etoue on tbe opposite side of a ravine masses of rock had 

 fallen over, and these constitute the bed over which the water 

 has been conducted, forming a grand waterfall, which owes 

 more to nature than to art. 



The kitchen garden is also on a slope facing southward, and 

 forms a long strip of no great extent. The principal glass 

 structures are three vineries — namely, a lean-to as an early 

 house, in which are also Strawberries and Azaleas; a ridge- 

 aud-furrow Hamburgh house, in which the Vines will be 

 started about this time ; a Muscat house ; and a greenhouse, 

 iu which there was a fine show of Chinese Primulas. In a 

 smaller house were greenhouse Ferns, Roses, and a few Or- 

 chids. Other small houses were chiefly filled with bedding 

 plants. The glass, however, is a comparatively unimportant 

 part of the establishment ; nor is fruit-growing out of doors 

 carried on to any considerable extent, the claims of the place 

 to notice resting on its fine natural position and the advan- 

 tage to which this has been turned. Too much has not been 

 attempted, and the extent of ground under keeping is not 

 very large, but everything has been carried out tastefully and 

 well, and the hard-working gardener, Mr. Young, deserves 

 great credit for the excellent order which prevails in all de- 

 partments, especially as he has so little assistance. 



DR. NEILL AENOTT. 



Dr. Arnott, eminent as a physician and master of many 

 sciences, died on the 2nd inst., at his residence, 2, Cumberland 

 Terrace, Regent's Park, and his memory claims to bo pre- 

 served in our pages, specially for having benefited cultivators 

 of fruit and exotic plants, by the invention of what is known 

 to all gardeners as " Arnott's stove." The Times tells us 

 that he was a native of Upper Dysart, near Montrose, and was 

 born about the year' 1788. He was a fellow pupil with Lord 

 Byron at the grammar school at Aberdeen, and afterwards 

 graduated at the University of that northern city, of which he 

 has been at different times a munificent benefactor. Coming 

 to London in 180C, ho became a pupil of Sir Everard Home, 

 through whose influence he obtained an appointment as a 

 surgeon in the East India Company's medical service. Much 

 of the experience which he gleaned in the East he afterwards 

 turned to good account in his " Elements of Physics." Settling 

 in London in 1811, he soon obtained a large practice, and in 

 1H15 was appointed physician to the French Embassy and 

 shortly afterwards to the Spanish Embassy. In 1827 he 

 published the work above alluded to, which has since gone 

 through very many editions and become a text book, being an 

 amplification of certain lectures on the application of natural 

 philosophy to medicine, which ho had delivered some years 

 previously in one of the hospitals. In 1838 he gave to the 

 world his " Essay on Warming and Ventilation," and carrying 

 liis scientific theories out into practice, he devised the " stoves " 

 which bear his name, for which invention he was rewarded by 

 tbe Hoyal Society with the Eumford Medal several years 

 afterwards. For this and for other novel applications of 

 science to the treatment of disease and the preservation of the 

 liublic health, the jurors of one depaitment of the Universal 

 I'xpositiou of Paris of 1855 awarded to him a gold medal, to 

 which the Emperor added the Cross of the Legion of Honour. 

 In 1835 Dr. Arnott was appointed a member of the Senate of 

 the Univer.'sity of London ; in 1837 he was 'named one of the 

 Physicians Extraordinary to Her Majesty, and in the following 

 year elected a Fellow of the Royal Society. In 1854 he was 

 requested by the President of the General board of Health to 

 become one of his Medical Council. As the inventor of the 

 " Arnott stove," the " Arnott ventilator," and the water bed, 

 for which many a sufferer owes him a debt of gratitude, it is 

 not hkely that his name will soon be forgotten; but it deserves 

 to bo recorded in his honour that he constantly refused to 

 patent his inventions, from the wide use of which he might 

 have reaped, had he pleased, a handsome income. This, how- 

 ever, he declined to do ; he sought a higher reward tlian that 

 which money could have given him ; and accordingly what ho 

 sought he found before his decease. 



THE CULTIVATION AND AFTER-TREATMENT OF 

 GLOXINIA, GESNERA, AND ACHIMENES. 

 In starting the roots of Gloxinias (which may be done every 

 six weeks if you have a hothouse) they should be taken out of 

 the old soil and repotted into 4 or 6-inch pots, according to the 

 size of the tubers, in a compost of light sandy peat and leaf 



mould, and a small portion of weU-rotted cow dung, which will 

 enrich it, taking care to give plenty of drainage. 



The tubers of the Gloxinias and Gesneras will only require 

 to be pressed on the surface of the soil. Achimenes will re- 

 quire to be covered with at least half an inch of soil ; then 

 place in a warm close frame iu the greenhouse, so that they 

 may get plenty of light. There is nothing to beat a pit to grow 

 them to perfection, with a good moist bottom heat from a bed 

 of tan, dung, or leaves — the latter is preferable, being easily 

 procured — also a lasting nice sweet temperature of from GO" to 

 70", when they will make free growth. Give them plenty of 

 water. It is as easy to grow good Ciloxinias, Gesneras, and 

 Achimenes as it is a few Cucumbers; and an amateur can 

 have them do well in his greenhouse or pit. Use the syringe 

 rather freely as they grow ; and as the temperature rises it 

 will with these, as with most other subjects, induce clean and 

 vigorous growth. The thrips, one of the worst pests of our 

 greenhouses, will attack this class of plants with avidity, more 

 particularly the Achimenes. Even tbe bloom will not be spared 

 if they are allowed to get ahead. They can also be well grown 

 in ordinary frames. 



About the middle of March prepare fresh stable manure, 

 in the same manner as for early frame Cucumbers, then let the 

 same quantity of leaves be collected and mixed with the dung, 

 sufficient to form a good substantial bed, with a steady heat of 

 about 70° — let the dimensions of this bed be about 3 feet larger 

 every way than the frame to be used — cover the whole with 

 6 inches of soil of any kind, or sifted coal ashes, for plunging 

 in the pots or pans. The end of March will be time enough to 

 put in the tubers, taking care to use soil warmed to the tem- 

 perature of your frame or pit ; shut up close for a few days, 

 and give no water. Open the sash every fine morning to pre- 

 vent the heat rising above 75°. Aim at a night temperature 

 of from 55 ' to 00°. After a few leaves have shown themselves, 

 water carefully, and sprinkle over the leaves in the after part 

 of the day, just before the sun is oii the glass, and shut up 

 immediately. Should we get a sptU of cold weather, and the 

 thermometer indicate a lower temperature, renew the heating 

 material by removing the outer portion of your bed by cutting 

 quite to the bottom, then replace with fresh hot stable dung, 

 or dung and leaves. This will not, however, require so much 

 preparing as the dung for the original bed, as the excessive 

 heat will not come in immediate contact with your plunged 

 pots, your object being at this time to maintain a steady heat 

 of 75°. Water of nearly tbe same temperature as the frame, 

 or at least tepid, must always be used at this season, and shade 

 from the midday sun. As they start into flower give more 

 air, and plenty of water ; and as they expand, remove them 

 from the frame to the greenhouse, first to the w.armest, then 

 to the coolest part of the house, to prolong their season of 

 bloom. After they have done flowering, put the earliest batch 

 iu a warm place out of doors. Water moderately, each week 

 giving less, to encourage them to go to rest. Later batches, 

 after flowering, can be placed on their sides under the partial 

 shade of trees, or a wall, where they will get suflicieut sun to 

 thoroughly ripen them. By the end of September, or early 

 part of October, they ought to be all brought into their winter 

 quarters until wanted to perform their routine of work again. — 

 {American Gardener's Monthly.) 



NOTES ON VILLA and SUBURBAN GARDENING. 



Culture of Hard;/ Annuals. — About the beginning of March 

 commence sowing the seed after the following manner : — Stir 

 the soil, and make it firm with the hand if it be light ; if not, 

 with a small hand-hoe or fork ; then, with the finger, draw a 

 circular drill of about 6 inches in diameter in the circle, and 

 1 inch or less deep, according to the size and habit of tbe plant 

 intended to be sown. Cover the seeds lightly with moist soU, 

 and place an inverted flowor-pot over them if convenient to do 

 so ; allow the pot to remain ixntil the seeds have begun to grow, 

 then prop it on one side 2 or 3 inches high until the plants are 

 able to bear the weather, afterwards remove it altogether. 

 Covering the seed with a pot answers several good purposes : 

 First, it keeps the soil moist until the seeds have vegetated; 

 second, the sun shining on the pot causes a reflection of con- 

 siderable heat ; third, it screens them from the spring frosts; 

 fourth, it prevents the soil from being washed off the seeds, or 

 the seeds themselves being washed away by heavy rains ; and 

 fifth, it preserves from birds and mice. When the plants are 

 about an inch high they must be thinued-out according to the 

 kind, that those remaining may be able to grow and flower 

 strongly. Tbe height the plants grow must also guide the person 

 as to what part of the border they ought to occupy, which, 



