March 19, 1874. ] 



JOURNAL OF HOBTIOULTDEE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 



243 



Cherry, and Plum trees, and if the space permits, to Goose- 

 berries and Currants as well. 



This spring having been cold and wet evei'ything is later than 

 usual. In the meantime, during these sunny days, prepare for 

 the main crops of Carrots and Parsnips, so as to get them in 

 when the ground is dry. Both of these like a deep rich soil, 

 and if it is of a light nature it is more suitable for their long 

 tapering roots. They should follow a crop for which the ground 

 was previously well manured, for if manured in the spring the 

 loots will be forked and wormy wherever they come in contact 

 with it. Parsnips require a greater distance between the rows 

 than Carrots; they should be sown in drills from 15 to 18 inches 

 apart, and about an inch deep. The seeds being smooth do not 

 require being mixed with soil Uke Carrots, but in every other 

 way they may be treated ahke. Drilling crops where it can be 

 done is far more convenient than sowing broadcast, as the in- 

 termediate spaces can be easily cleaned and stirred-up, which is 

 of great benefit to the plants. If the first sowings of Peas are 

 not already staked it should be done without delay. If they are 

 not Butficiently earthed-up, draw a little more to them before 

 staking them. A sowiug of Ueang may now be made. Sow 

 some Spinach to grow between the Peas. It is time for getting- 

 in Potatoes, planting them about 2 feet apart. A sowing of 

 Curled Parsley should also be made without delay ; it delights in 

 a good fresh soil. A small patch of Radishes should be sown 

 for succession about once in three weeks. Lettuce, Celery, and 

 Cauliflower may be sown in a warm border ; the latter to succeed 

 those that should now be planted out. 



Flowers. — Do not uncover anything that is tender for a short 

 time yet. Continue to dress the borders. 



Fkuit. — Get Strawberry beds (if any), weeded before the 

 plants have grown much, and keep down weeds wherever they 

 appear. — W. Keane. 



THE APPLE, AND HOW TO PRUNE AND 



TRAIN IT.— No. 2. 



FoK the formation of a double cordon, or a tree having two 



horizontal branches, the one being trained to the right and 



the other to the left, as represented hy jig. 3, the maiden tree 



branches, of what may be extended to any number. Fig. 5 

 will therefore represent the premier stage of this mode of 

 training. It will be observed that in the pruning of the 

 maiden plant a selection has to be made of three buds as a 

 commencement of the future framework of the tree. The 

 top or highest bud should be trained upwards, forming the 

 stem a, the two others, being trained to either side, forming 

 the first or lower tiers of branches b, c. It may here be re- 

 marked that all this training of the young trees is generally 

 performed with stakes, a single stake being used for tying the 

 main stem to, and a stake each for the side branches, or three 

 stakes in all. The young branches have thus considerable 

 freedom, and consequently grow freely. 



Fig. 3. — Double Cordon. 



has to be cut down to just a little below the height at which 

 it may have been determined to train the branches, or 

 12 inches above the ground as the case may be. The two top 

 buds in this case are those which require to be encouraged in 

 order to form the branches a, b. In all horizontal training it 

 is important to prune to buds that are situated a little below 

 the line on which it is intended to train the shoots, because 

 buds have at first a natural tendency to grow more or less 

 erect ; consequently it is difficult, without breaking, to train 

 the shoots at once in a perfectly horizontal position. When, 

 however, the shoots start a little below the line, by a nice 

 gentle curve they are easily brought to their proper position ; 

 and further, it is found that shoots or branches trained directly 

 horizontal from the bud do not grow with that same degree 

 of vigour which those do which from the bud are at first 

 trained a little upwards. For this reason, when a tree is 

 weak, the branches a, b, may be allowed to grow in the posi- 

 tion represented in yi(;. 4, in order that they may gain strength, 

 when they must be brought down gradually to the horizontal. 



In the second pruning of cordon trees {figs. 3, 4), the 

 branches or shoots, a, 6, if they have grown pretty strong, may 

 be left at a good length, as the only object in view is to get 

 them well supplied with fruiting spurs. This, like many other 

 matters in regard to pruning, mast be left in a great measure 

 to the judgment of the operator. A strong shoot may be left 

 10 inches or more in length, whilst a weak one must be cut 

 back very closely. 



Another system of training the Apple, although not so much 

 in practice as with the Pear, is that of the ordinary horizontal 

 or espalier. It is simply a continuation of the " double 

 cordon ;" or, seeing that cordons have become fashionable 

 subsequently to this older form, it would be the more correct 

 to say that cordons are modifications of the old-fashioned 

 horizontal. They represent one branch, or one course of 



Fig. 4. 



Another point of considerable importance in the training 

 and formation of young trees is that of giving all the shoots 

 or branches the same advantages as regards position. A shoot 

 or branch trained upright will grow much stronger than one 

 trained in a horizontal direction ; and if the most strenuous 

 measures are not taken to prevent it, the greater flow of 

 strength will always be to the top part of the tree. To secure 



Fig. 5. — Fii-Bt stage horizontal Espalier training, showing second year's 

 pruning. 



uniformity and regularity of growth as far as possible, it is 

 found necessary to train all the branches a little upwards, say 



