March 20, 187J. ] 



JOURNAL OP HOETIOULTUBE AND COTTAGE GAEDENER. 



2C1 



two, may be found necessary to impart the requisite finish, to 

 give balance or fulness to parts that prove so expansive as to 

 present a balil and meaningless appearance ; or, as is more 

 frequently the case, fewer shrubs are found necessary than it 

 was thought would be required in the first instance. It will 

 therefore be understood that this plan is simply suggestive. 



An arbour is substituted for the seat at (i, to impart a pic- 

 turesque and important air to the less interesting part of the 

 lawn, and to afford rest and shelter at the most distant point 

 — precisely where it would most likely be required ; and the 

 Ash tree at n, from its central position and nearness to the 

 croquet ground, is surrounded by a seat and circular sweep of 

 gravel, into which the main approach to the croquet ground 

 and the two branch walks converge. The space between the 

 terrace and croquet ground, by its form and position, is admir- 

 ably adapted for a Rhododendron or Rose garden. It is 3 feet 

 lower than the terrace, from whence, therefore, the full beauty 

 of its flowers might be enjoyed. It would be a charming 

 adjunct to the croquet ground, which is on a still lower level ; 

 it would impart much beauty and interest to the entire scene ; 

 and it would in itself form an object of prime importance. It 

 might be planted entirely with Rhododendrons, or with Roses, 

 or a mixture of the two. Thus there might be a grand central 

 mass of Rhododendrons with four side beds of Roses. 



The large space of turf, '■}, might probably require a few 

 more shrubs or a bed or two near its margin, but I have not 

 introduced more in the plan from ignorance of the size of the 

 trees already growing there. If they should be fine stately 

 old trees, then there should be a considerable expanse of lawn 

 around them ; if they are of no great size, then, and only then, 

 more shrubs would be required. This is a matter requiring 

 much caution, a crowded style of planting only being admissible 

 for immediate effect. Wherever it is practised, if frequent 

 attention is not bestowed upon the progress of the plants and 

 to the timely thinning of crowded groups, they will gradually 

 assume the aspect of mere thickets, and all individuality among 

 the shrubs will be lost. It should be added that the groimd 

 falls from 1 to 2, 2. — Edwaed Luckhukst. 



The Catheeine Peab. — It answers well in Devon as a 

 market Pear, and I consider it much superior in flavour to 

 either the Crawford or Green Chisel, but not up to a fine 

 " Bergamy." It also answers well in the Southams of Devon, 

 where there is one of the oldest and largest Pear trees I ever 

 saw, one half of which is Catherine, the other Autumn Ber- 

 gamot. In some very old fruit catalogues it is named Green 

 Catharine. — A. McKelvib, Torrlnyton. 



NOTES ON VILLA and SUBUBBAN GARDENING. 



Although much has been said and written relative to the 

 importance of arranging plants in flower gardens according to 

 their complementary colours, but little attention in a practical 

 point of view has been paid to the subject. This is the more 

 to be regretted, because the theory of colours is not an imaginary 

 one, but is founded on nature, and therefore as nature demands 

 that to produce an harmonious whole certain colours must be 

 properly blended, we ought not to distribute plants at random. 

 " Every decided colour," observes Goethe, "does certain violence 

 to the eye and forces the organ to opposition." Thus, let any 

 one fix his eye intently on the brilliant scarlet flowers of Verbena 

 ignea, and in a few seconds the colour becomes oppressive to that 

 organ, but no sooner does he remove it to the green foliage that 

 surrounds the flower than the pain ceases and the observer ex- 

 periences relief. And why is this ? Because green is the oppo- 

 site or complementary colour of red, and in the same manner 

 yellow demands purple; orange, blue, and vice versa; and so on 

 throughout the whole range of colours, as all the intermediate 

 gradations reciprocally demand each other, the simpler colours 

 requiring the compound, and the contrary. 



Again, colours are divided into two classes — viz., warm and 

 cold. The warm colours are red, orange, and purple, and their 

 shades ; and the cold or complementary colours, green, blue, 

 and yellow, in their various gradations ; while white, which for 

 gardening purposes takes the place of green, may be considered 

 complementary to the whole of them, as all colours are improved 

 by being brought in contact with it, with the exception of pale 

 pink or yellow, to which it gives a rather dingy appearance. 



Where the flower beds are surrounded by grass it is not 

 advisable to introduce cold colours, as yellow or blue, to any 

 great extent, but, on the contrary, warm colourB, as red, orange, 

 and purple, should prevail, and the opposite when the beds are 

 on yellowish brown gravel, which is a warm colour. For this 

 reasou it is that some persons object to certain colours in their 

 flower gardens ; but if when cold colours are placed on grass 



the beds are stirrounded by a narrow margin of the complement- 

 ary colour, the effect of the flowers will be much enhanced, 

 and the same will occur when the beds are on gravel. 



These remarks are offered at this time with a view to the 

 arrangement of colours in sowing spring or planting autumn- 

 sown annuals, which must be got into their permanent quarters 

 as soon as possible. In arranging the plants I would particularly 

 insist upon a due proportion in their height as well as in the 

 colour of their flowers. 



In borders that are viewed in their length and breadth the 

 colours should be arranged in the following order ; — Red, white, 

 yellow, purple, orange, blue ; repeating the same colour or some 

 shade of it at regular distances throughout the length of the 

 border. 



One of the great advantages of a window garden is the agree- 

 able occupation it affords to tliose amateur gardeners who are 

 imprisoued iu towns, to invalids, and to lady amateurs, and 

 young people who are confined to the house by bad weather iu 

 town or in the country. Watering the plants, tying-up climljers, 

 making cuttings, and raising seedlings, shifting the plants, 

 watching the daily progress and daily opening of the flower 

 buds may serve to Ijeguile many a tedious hour, and persons 

 unaccustomed to plant-culture would hardly believe how much 

 occupation, amusement, and instruction those little gardens 

 will supply. It will be found a great improvement and teud to 

 secure a healthy vegetation to plunge the pots in moss, and to 

 cover them with the same material. The green moss in itself 

 is a beautiful object, while it serves to conceal what is the very 

 reverse, a collection of red garden pots. Then, by keeping it 

 wet iu summer, and dry or nearly bo iu winter, an atmosphere 

 may be readily provided exactly suited to the wants of the 

 plants, and the soil in the pots is kept at all times in an equable 

 state with regard to moisture and temperature, protecting alike 

 from the bvirning sun in summer and from the cold which is 

 occasioned by evaporation or by radiation under a clear frosty 

 skyiu winter. 



In furnishing the garden it is evident that, in order to produce 

 the best effect, the habit of the plants should harmonise with 

 the limited dimensions of the structure intended to contain 

 them. Moderate-sized flowers of clear and brilliant colours, 

 delicate foUage, and a compact habit, are the points to be chiefly 

 attended to in selecting the plants. 



A small garden in the outskirts of a town should have more 

 flowering plants and flowers cultivated in it than would be 

 wanted in the country, as flowers are much valued and produce 

 a more delightful contrast in such situations. It is very doubtful, 

 however, how far training climbers to town houses in the 

 cottage or villa style is accordant with good taste, especially 

 as they seldom look healthy or flower freely. Consistently with 

 a good supply of flowering plants, moreover, a town garden 

 cannot have too many evergreens, for they produce liveliness 

 and verdure at the season of the year when, iu towns, the most 

 leaden dulness often reigns in the atmosphere. 



As the weather has taken a favourable change, operations 

 which should have been performed some time ago may now be 

 proceeded with in good earnest. Ground that has been winter- 

 dug and fully exposed to the mellowing influence of the late 

 frosts will now be in excellent condition for receiving seeds, 

 therefore embrace an early opportunity of getting-in the prin- 

 cipal crops of Carrots and Onions. Of the latter the most useful 

 sorts for a villa are the Strasburg and James's Keeping; a small 

 patch of the Silver-skinned may also be sown for pickling. Sow 

 iu 4-feet beds in rows 9 inches apart, taking care not to cover 

 too deeply. Examine previous sowings of Peas in ease of injury 

 from frost, drawing a little earth to them if they require it, 

 and make a successional sowing of Dwarf MaiTow Peas or the 

 Auvergne ; the latter is very prolific and well suited for succeeding 

 the early crops. Sow in rows 3J feet apart with Spinach be- 

 tween them. Prepare for planting Potatoes, also get-in seeds 

 of Turnips, Parsley, Radishes, and Leeks, the latter for trans- 

 planting. Let the soil be frequently stirred between the rows of 

 young Cabbages, and plant-out from those sown in the autumn, 

 — W. Keane. 



DOINGS OF THE LAST AND PRESENT WEEKS. 



FHDIT AND KITCHEN OAEDEN. 



There is but little that can be done amongst fruit trees of any 

 sort. If nailing is not finished it ought to be done without delay. 

 The protecting material ought to be let down over the walls 

 every night when there is any danger from frost. The ground 

 is very dry on the surface, and where the borders were dug over 

 early in the winter the surface is caked, and a few weeds are 

 appearing; it has therefore been desirable to run the hoe over 

 them to destroy the weeds and disintegrate the soil. It has also 

 been necessary to run the Dutch hoe through the Strawberry beds. 

 Hoed and earthed-up early Peas, and afterwards put sticks to 

 them. A common mistake in sticking Peas is to leave the sticks 

 bare at the bottom, so that the plants cannot lay hold of them 

 readily. Short sprays about a foot or 18 inches in length should 

 be placed to the rows first, and closer together than the longer 



