280 



JOURNAL OF HOBTICULTUEE AND COTTAGE GARDENEB. 



[ April 2, 1811. 



that have to remain in the same pots for any lengthened period 

 of time, as the roots will never take so kindly to soil that has 

 once been sour, although by care and attention to watering we 

 may get it iato what appears a fair condition of sweetness. 



Then the system of giving dribblets of water at a time is 

 also a bad practice. By this mode of watering the surface and 

 a short distance beneath it is kept in a seemingly right-enough 

 condition as regards moisture, whilst further down in the pot 

 the soil is so dry that the roots cannot derive any benefit from 

 it. In the case of those plants reijuiring peat soil to grow in, 

 this system of watering has been the cause of the death of 

 many that were valuable ; it, therefore, cannot be too carefully 

 guarded against. If peat get into a certain stage of dryness 

 it is very difficult to get it moist again. I have observed, and 

 others will have done likewise, that on turning out of a pot a 

 plant that has been potted in peat, the outside of the ball 

 appevrs all right as regards the state of dampness it is in, but 

 on breaking inlo it a considerable portion towards the centre is 

 found as dry as dust. Indeed, I have on more than one occa- 

 sion wondered how it was possible for it to have remained so, 

 seeing that in some cases which have come under my notice 

 the outside of the ball was in an over-wet condition. This 

 fact points to the necessity of giving at each successive water- 

 ing a quantity sufficient to moisten the whole mass of soil 

 contained in the pots. 



It is difficult to get some young men to understand how 

 much of a plant's well-being depends upon the care taken in 

 the matter of watering. I have met with some who, on start- 

 ing to water a varied collection of plants, had no scruple about 

 treating all alike, each pot in its turn getting filled with water, 

 without taking the trouble to ascertain whether the state of 

 the soil demanded it or not. This may be considered by some 

 an extreme case of careless watering, but I fear it is not of 

 rare occurrence. Then there is another class who have a pecu- 

 liar liking for the dribblet system — firm believers in little 

 doses often repeated. 01 the two modes of watering, this last 

 one is the worse. If the drainage is good, and the soil has 

 been firmly packed in the pots in the first instance, the former 

 mode is not so much to be feared; but both systems are bad, 

 and no one who practises either of them will ever become a 

 first-class plant-grower. I am inclined to think that many 

 young gardeners do not give the amount of attention to this 

 subject which its importance entitles it to. There are few 

 amongst them who have been for any length of time at the 

 profession who could not tell all about the proper ingredients 

 necessary for forming a compost in which to grow a choice 

 Pelargonium or rare Orchid, and yet in this every-day matter 

 of watering there are not so many of them who can perform 

 it with judgment, and to the greatest advantage of the sub- 

 jects to which it is being applied. There is one thing should 

 be kept in mind on each occasion that plants are watered — that 

 is, the temperature of the water, which should not be below 

 that of the atmosphere of the house in which the plants are 

 locited. In the case of stove plants, if the water is a few 

 de.tjrees higher it will be beneficial to them. In conclusion, I 

 would impress on young men the necessity of carefully examin- 

 ing the soil in the pots before applying water ; and if the state 

 of the soil indicates that it is required, then give sufficient to 

 moisten every particle of soU in the pot, hut in no case should 

 water be given until we are pretty certain that its application 

 will be beneficial to the plants. — J. Hamjiond (in Tlie Gardener). 



NOTES ON VILLA, and SUBUBBAN GARDENING. 



A SHOKT time back, when speaking of the advantages of strik- 

 ing cuttings of plants for beddiug-out in the summer, I recom- 

 mended them to be potted early, in order that the plants might 

 form a compact ball of roots, and be ready to plunge into sand 

 at this season in temporary pits, so as to set the frames and pots 

 at liberty for most useful purposes. As the season has now 

 arrived when plants will only require protection from frost and 

 heavy rains, I should recommend a pit to be formed, and the 

 plants to be turned out without delay. In forming a pit it is 

 only necessary to excavate the ground in a sheltered part of the 

 garden to the depth of 1 foot, placing the earth so as to form an 

 embankment round the sides of the pit ; on this may be placed 

 some rough poles to form rafters to support straw frames, mats, 

 or any other covering that may be used to protect the plants. 

 This is a rude contrivance that can be used in every place, but 

 where flower gardening is extensively practised it would be well 

 to have something of a more permanent character, such as brick 

 or turf walls, with wooden shutters to protect the plants. A 

 turf wall 'J inches thick, if formed in summer when the turf is 

 dry, will resist much more frost than a brick one of the same 



dimensions, and consequently I should recommend a pit of the 

 kind in every reserve garden, as it will be found exceedingly 

 useful at all seasons — in winter to protect autumn-sown annuals, 

 and in summer for innumerable pui-poses, as there is no doubt 

 but that plants of all kinds in pots would be materially bene- 

 fited if placed in pits of this description, where the pots would 

 be protected from currents of cold dry air, which is so injurious 

 by abstracting moisture from the pots and at the same time 

 communicating a chill to the roots. 



After the pit is formed the bottom must be made pretty firm, 

 and if convenient covered over with thin turf, on which must bo 

 placed about 3 inches of fine sand. In this the plants may be 

 placed, taking care to allow them sufiicient room to form them- 

 selves without being crowded. The advantages of this system are 

 the gi'eat saving of labour aTid expense in pots, the greater mass 

 of roots formed by the plants than could be the case if they were 

 exposed to the alternations of drought and moisture in pots ; 

 and, what is of still greater importance as a matter of taste, they 

 get rid of that foxy appearance which generally disfigures them 

 so long when turned out in the ordinary manner. 



The potting of greenhouse plants must be proceeded with as 

 the plants require it. No general rule can be given for this 

 operation ; the state of the plant will be the best guide to its 

 proper management. 



After this, insects will make their appearance in most green- 

 houses. The best remedy for red spider and thrips is to dip the 

 plant in a thin solution of glue ; but for the green fly, the old 

 system of fumigating witli tobacco is the best resource. 



An easy and less uupleasanl. method of fumigating is to place 

 a garden sieve on three pots inches high on a path near the 

 entrance to the house ; on the sieve place a few red cinders, and 

 cover them when not too brisk with damp tobacco and wet straw 

 fresh from the stable. In this manner a house may be filled 

 with smoke by half the tobacco usually employed, and with a 

 mere tithe of the trouble usually attending the operation. 



For sowing down grass seeds the ground should now be lightly 

 dug over, and the seeds sown immediately afterwards. It will 

 be advisable to scatter them rather thickly, then tread and well 

 rake them in, and give the ground a thorough rolling. Care 

 must be taken to make up the ground by the edgings already 

 laid, to the level of the top of those edgings, in order that when 

 the young grass springs up all may be on the same level, and 

 there may not be a break or dip between the old and the new. 

 After the grass has vegetated it will simply require to be kept 

 free from weeds until it is strong enough to bo mown. A dry 

 day in showery weather now will be the best time for sowing 

 grass seeds ; and it ought not to be forgotten that on the even- 

 ness with which the ground is dug, levelled, and raked, will 

 depend the beauty and smoothness of the lawn. 



Some of the fittest seeds for a lawn are Poa pratensis and 

 trivialis, Festuca ovina, Cynosurus cristatus, Avena flavescens, 

 Trifolium minus, and White Dutch Clover. Some nurserymen 

 have mixtures of their own adapted to particular soils. But the 

 smaller the proportion of the stronger-growing kinds that is 

 admitted the finer, and smoother, and softer will be the grass, 

 and the less mowing it will require. 



Where good turf can be had without much trouble or expense 

 it will be more immediately beautiful and satisfying than sowing 

 down a lawn with fresh seeds ; and even if turfing be too serious 

 an item, under any circumstances the edgings of walks and the 

 outlines of beds should be everywhere defined by a strip of old 

 turf at least a foot in width. This will prevent the seeds from 

 being scattered on the walk or borders, and make the edging 

 firmer and less ragged for several years. 



Let all Potato-planting be finished by the middle of this 

 month at the latest, at least the late kinds intended for seed 

 for the next year. The very early kinds, as Ash-leaved Kidneys, 

 &c., should not be set too early for seed, or the probability is 

 that they will lose their first sprouts. The end of the month 

 a good time for this purpose. Let all Potatoes for seed be planted 

 on high airy and unshaded ground. Break away all Ehubarb 

 stalks running to seed. Cover Sea-kale springing with a mound 

 of soil. 



Give fresh earth to any plants in pots, such as Carnations, 

 Pinks, Auriculas, Double Sweet William, Rocket, etc. 



Transplant any hardy Roses which you may wish to bloom 

 late in the year. Plant Bos for edgings still, and roll the lawn. 

 Keep the garden quite free from weeds and dead leaves. 

 Now place sticks to every plant or stalk requiring support. 

 Fix the sticks on Light iron rods firmly in the ground, and tie 

 the stems to each stick neatly in two or three places. 



Some evergreens may yet be removed, as Laurels, Laurustinus, 

 Portugal Laurels, Cistuses, Ai'butus, Magnolias, Pyracanthas, &C. 

 Place your Auriculas, Hyacinths, etc., which may be in pots 

 in a sheltered place during heavy rains or winds, and shelter 

 those flowers which are in the borders as well as you can. Trim 

 them from dead leaves. 



Protect the blossoms of fruit trees, and eradicate insects by 

 all possible means. See that all the winter and early-spring 

 work amongst fruit trees is brought to a close forthwith. Finish 



