April 9, 1874 ] 



JOURNAL OF HORTICtJLTDEE AND COTTAGE GAEDENER. 



301 



grow them wen. Sprinile OTerhcad momiog and evcniDR, but water sparmgly 

 at the root, and Bhade from briqht flun until they have recovered from the 

 pottiug, after which afford a light airy position. Water more freely as the 

 plants {irow, and when the pots till with roots shift into others 2 inches larger 

 in diameter, and it large plants are wanted the shift for vigorous plants may 

 be atrifie more hberal. To induce a bushy habit theshoots should be stopped 

 one joint before the flower buds appear, and any very vigorous shoots may be 

 stopped at the third or fourth joint. The stopping ought to he discontinued 

 six to eight weeks before the plants are wanted to flower. 



Mackaya BELLA CuLTTTRE <E. L.).—li IS a giceubou 86 sbmb, from Natal. 

 Remove it to the firttnhouse at once, affording it a light airy position, water- 

 ing copiously when pi-owinp, and when the growth is complete afford no more 

 water than will be sufficient to keep it from flagging. If it has started in the 

 stove allow it to complete the growth before removing it to the greenhouse. 

 The flowers are very pretty, of a pnle lilac colour, and produced in racemes 

 from the points of the shoots ; consequently thcRe should not he stopped, and 

 any pruning required must be perfonned before the plant starts into growth. 



Beet Stbingv (Y. G.).— It is mainly owing to growing it in poor soil, and 

 sowing too early. The ground should be well diessed with rotten manure in 

 autumn, and dug. In spring dresa with lime, fork over and make fine, and 

 do not sow until the third week of April. Some kinds of Beet are more apt 

 to become stringy than others. Dowar's, Chelsea, and Nutting's are fine and 

 of good flavour. 



Pruning Gooseberry Bushes (Idem).— The spur system is best, leaving 

 only such wood as is required for extension, or replacing old worn-out branches. 



Seedling Violet (Qeo. W. Boothhy).—Youj seedling white Violet appeajs 

 much lar^j'er than the old white, the colour is very pure, and it is extremely 

 fj-agrant. 



Ants' Nests (S. L. R. r.).~At night, when they are all in, soak the nest 

 thoroughly with the strongest ammonlacal liquor from the gas-works. Repeat 

 the operation if needed. 



Docks and Dandelion in Orchard {Subscriber).— Thej are readily killed 

 by cutting off their tops an inch or two below the surface of the soil, and 

 letting fail on the roots left in the ground one or two diops of sulphuric acid. 

 It will also destroy any roots of the trees that it may touch, therefore be 

 carefni. Why not take up the Docks and Dandelions with a dock fork, which 

 will remove all hut the very small or side rootlets '? It may be had of most 

 horticultural- implement dealers. 



Orchard-house Apricots Unfruitful {W. K.).—The trees are probably 

 planted in too rich soil, and therefore their tendency is towards growth 

 rather than. fertility. We should lift them next autumn as soon as the first 

 leaves begin to fall, and, without root-pruning more than shortening any 

 thick long roots which are bare of fibi-es, return them to the same spot after 

 workingin some mortar rubbish from an old building, and so that the tree 

 will stand on the level. Cover the roots, and the ground for a foot further 

 than they extend, with a compost of three parts sandy loam and one part ol old 

 lime mbbieh, raising it about the stem in the form of a fone. Cover the upper- 

 most roots about 2 inches deep. The centre of the cone round the stem 

 should be dished, bo as to hold water, of which a good supply should be given 

 immediately the operation is complete. Do not stop the shoots until they 

 have made six leaves, and then take out their 'points, and afterwards stop at 

 every inch of growth. 



Keeping Bedding Plants in Ground Vinerv {F. I.). — It will not in the 

 least injure the Vines as long as the bedding plants do not interfere with the 

 foliage. The wetting of the Vines in watering will be more beneficial than 

 injurious. 



Early Blossojitng of Fruit Trees (Jrfrm).— The blossoming of fruit 

 trees is this year earlier than usual, of course owing to the mildness of the 

 weather. Continue to protect the trees, but only in frosty weather. We 

 should extend the protection to the trees at present unprotected, continuing 

 it for the young fruit, which are as susceptible of injury from cold, if not 

 more so, as the blossom. 



Mould on Cutting-pans (M. D.). — The mould, from your description, is 

 that common to aoftwooded plants when dampiug-off through being put in 

 closely in rich vegetable soil, or a soil full of vegetable matter in a decaying 

 state, as the fibres of turf in loam, also leaf soil. The only remedy is to use 

 a poorer, sweeter, and sandier soil, and to preserve a better ventilated and 

 drier atmosphere. Most plants strike root more readily in sand than in a 

 rich soil. 



Musk Turning Yellow [A. S.).— Probably the plants turn yellow from too 

 much moisture at the roots. Afford a light airy position, and keep moist, but 

 avoid making the soil sodden. A gentle sprinkling overhead morning and 

 evening with water is advantageous. We presume the plants have been 

 repotted. 



Site of House (T. J.).— We consider the site of your house, and, of 

 course, garden, with a north aspect, though not so good as a southern one, 

 will, nevertheless, answer for most kitchen-garden crops and the growth of 

 such fruits as Strawbeiries, Currants, and Gooseberries, which would succeed 

 admirably. The crops would be some days later than on the opposite side of 

 the hill. 



Hardy Perennials (Ben). — Acanthus lusitanicus, Aeonitum autumnale, 

 Adonis vemalis, Agrostenmia coronaria flore-pleno, Alyssum saxatile com- 

 pactum, Anemone japonica, A. Honorine Jobert, AquilegiaSkinneri, Asclepias 

 tuberosa. Aster divaricatus, A. tenuifoliue, Aubrietia purpurea, Baptisia 

 australis, Betonica grandiflora alba, Campanula aggreyata, Centranthus ruber, 

 Chelone barbata splendens, Commelina ccelestis, Delphinium alopecuroides, 

 D. Belladonna, D. Madame Leiandais, Dielytra spectabilis, Erigerou philadel- 

 phieus, Galega alba, Geranium pratense flore-pleno, Helleborus niger, Heme- 

 rocallis flava, Hepatica angulosa, Lobelia St. Clair, Lychnis Haageana, Myo- 

 sotis dissitiflora, <En&thera grandiflora, GE. macrocarpa, Orobus vemus, 

 P.Tonies, Papaver uudicaule, Pentstemon Wrigbti, Phloxes, Polygonatum mul- 

 tiflorum, Primula japonica, cortusoides, Pyrethrum varieties, Kanunciilus 

 acris flore-pleno, Salvia lusitanica, Scabiosa austriaca, Sisyrinchium grandl- 

 florum, Spira?a palraata, S. japonica, Statice Gmelini, Thalictrum anemoa- 

 oides flore-pleno, Tricyrtis birta grandiflora, Tritoma Eurchelli, Trollius 

 europieas, Veronica corymbosa, and V. amethystina. 



Kaspberry Ehubarb (Jdf'm).— We do not know of any by that name, but 

 it is probably the dwarf red kind, of excellent quality, known as Tobolsk. 



Heating Small Conservatory (Ti/ro).— We should have a gas boiler 

 within the house and not in the kitchen, with a pipe carrying off the fumes 

 of the consumed gas into the external air, which would prevent any injury to 

 the plants ; and by having the boiler in the house you would secure the heat 



of the boiler as well as that from the hot-water pipes. Two-inch pipes ar© 

 much too large for heating by gas; 1-inch pipes are what you need, and four 

 rows of those on the front side of the house, not the back, and along one or 

 both ends, would be sufficient ha the most severe weather to keep out frost. 

 The four rows of 1-inch pipes wUl give you the same amount of heating' sur- 

 face as two rows of 2-inch pipes, with only half the quantity of water to heat, 

 which will effect a saviug of one-half in the consumption of gas. You wiU 

 seo in our advertising columns gas boilers that may suit you. 



Grafting Khododendrons (D. L.).— It is best performed m Augiist or 

 September, when the young shoots have ripened, or it maybe practised in 

 spring before growth takes place. Side grafting in the best, the head of the 

 stock being only partially cut back. After grafting they should be kept m a 

 close frame and shaded until the grafts have taken. 



HoLLV Hedge Planting (T- B. i?.).— The present is as good a time as 

 any in spring for plaoting a hedge of this evergreen; but a better time is at 

 the end of September, or as soon after as the weather is moist. Plants 12 to 

 IH inches high are the most suitable. It will be many years before they will 

 form a fence. A quicker- growing hedge, and semi-evergreen, is formed of 

 Holly and Thorn, one Holly and five Thorns per yard. The HoUiea for a 

 hedge should be planted 1 foot apart. 



Canna Planting (A':/i(V).— As you have not the convenience to start them 

 in heat you may at once plant them out, the soil being of a sandy nature 

 enriched with leaf soil or well-rotted manure. The roots should be planted 

 about 3 inches deep, and covered that depth with soil. They may be left per- 

 manently in the ground, covering in autumn with a inches thick of httcr or 

 partially decayed leaves, doubling the thickness iu December, or before severe 

 frost. It should be removed in March. 



Wallflowers Leggy [Idem).— It will not answer to plant them up to the 

 branches. It is much better to raise plants from seed annually, which, if they 

 are prieked-out early and planted at a good distance apart, will form bushy 

 plants. 



Primulas and Cinerarias from Seed {Idem).—T\xQ size of the flowers 

 is greatly dependant on the cultivation, and also on the strain of plants from 

 which the seed is saved. Why not save seed of select plants, and thereby 

 improve the size and colours of the progeny ? Inferior strains are a great 

 disappointment; therefore, in ordering ask for the very best, remembering 

 that the price will he in proportion to the quahty of the seed. 



Destroying Wireworms (A. F. B.).— They are very difficult to destroy. 

 Lime water, though useful, will not do so; a dressing of quicklime at the rate 

 of seventy bushels per acre is preferable. Gas lime is probably the best 

 thing to employ. It should be spread over the ground prior to putting-in the 

 crops, and pointed- in with a fork. We have also found great benefit result 

 from soot applied so liberally as to make the ground quite black. In flower 

 borders or small plots you may use pieces of carrot an inch or two long, into 

 which a stick is thrust to indicate where the bait is placed. The baits may 

 be covered 2 inches deep, and every second or third day the wireworms will be 

 fouud partly embedded in them, and can, of course, be destroyed, and the 

 baits re-inserted. 



Triteleia uniflora after Flowering (Idem).— Gradually harden-off 

 the plants which have flowered in pots, or place them in a cold frame for a 

 short time, and afterwards plant-out in the open ground in a sheltered 

 border in hght sandy loam and with the ball entire, where they may romaii). 

 undisturbed for years, merely requu-ing to be taken-up occasionally, eay every 

 three years, divided, and replanted. They should be planted about 2 inches 

 deep. The largest bulbs may be taken-up early in autumn, potted, and treated 

 the same as Hyacinths, Ac, in the greenhouse. 



Acacia akmata Culture {Lady J.).— Acacia armata is the proper name 

 of the spray sent us. Any irregularities of growth should be cut-in after 

 flowoi-ing, and the plant repotted if necessary, removing any loose soil, and 

 looseuing the sides of the ball with a pointed piece of wood. Use a pot about 

 2 inches more in diameter than the old one. After potting sprinkle vritb. 

 water twice daily, morning and evening, and water sparingly until the roots 

 are working freely in the fresh soil, then give moisture more plentifully, and 

 afford a light airy position. In winter water only to keep the foliage fresh, 

 but do not allow the plants to suffer from want of water, othervrise the leaves 

 will fall. It requires to be grown in a greenhouse, and does well in a compost 

 of equal parts of turfy light loam and sandy peat, quarter part leaf soil, and a 

 sixth of sharp sand, with good drainage. 



EucHABTS coronata Cultur6 ( Jrf(.'i?i).— It is a stove evergreen bulbous 

 plant, and requii-es to be grown in a compost of equal parts of turfy loam and 

 sandy peat, with a fourth of leaf soil, a sisth of silver sand, and a few nodules 

 of charcoal. The bulbs should he potted up to the neck, and after potting 

 be placed in a bottom heat of 75'* to 80=, and no water given uutU they 

 are beginning to grow, then water moderately, increasing the supply with 

 the growth. Keep moist until the growth is complete, and then gradually 

 lessen the moisture and withdraw from the bottom heat, placing in a hght 

 and cooler house for from six to eight weeks, then return to the stove, 

 when the plants will most likely go to flower. When they begin to grow 

 encourage growth by fresh potting and a moist atmosphere, with bottom heat, 

 which last is not essential, only the growth is more free ; when it is complete 

 rest the plant in a drier and cooler house. 



Cowan's System of Heating {J. P., Forfc).— The system is much older 

 than that you quote from the work published by the Society for the 

 Diffusion of Useful Knowledge. In an early volume of Loudon's Magazine 

 there is a drawing and description. The difference is in the arrangement. 



Roses Failing (H. G. ilf.).— The bark dying first in patches and then the 

 entire branches dying, tells that the roots do not supply a sufficiency of sap 

 to sustain the growth. Your last sentence tells why—" the soil is chalky.' 

 Let the soil over the roots be removed and rich soil substituted; keep the 

 surface mulched, and give abundance of water durhig the growing season. 



Insects on Apple, Pear, and other Fruit Trees [Name omitted). — 

 The account you give of the cause of the injury to your trees is quite unin- 

 telligible in respect to its four different stages and its final mig (midge ?) hke 

 form. What we found in yom- envelope were a number of particles of bark 

 free from insects ; on a few of thera were several minute Thysanurons m- 

 sects, named Lipnra corticina, which feed on other minute insects ; and what 

 you fancy to be their eggs is a minute red fungus. There must be some 

 other cause or causes of the injury you complain of.— I. O. W. 



Insect on Heliotrope (H. D.).— There is no mildew but some insect^ 

 which from the dried skins on the leaves is evidently 4. kind of aphis. The 

 remedy will be to shut-up the house on a calm evening and fill it with tobacco 

 smoke, so that a plant cannot be seen from the outside through the glass> 



