May 7, 1874. ] 



JOUENAli OF nOKTICULTURB AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 



371 



Place a piece of sack over the pot, it will heep the liquid fi*om the soil and pots. 

 The Vines you must not syringe with the soft-soap Bolution, but fiU the house 

 with smoke, employ lug the best quality of tobacco paper, ami lillin;;: the house 

 so that a plant cannot be seen from the outside, taking oaro to bavo tbe foliage 

 of tbe Vines and plants dry, but the floor of the house wet. Choose a calm 

 evening, shutting' tbe house up closely. Tbe fiimit;:atiou will need to be repeated 

 in three or four days, and again in a week if necessary. Keep the atmosphere 

 moister. 



Camellia Treatment (C(imclhis).~Th6 plants, now that they are making 

 fresh growth, should be well supplied with water, never allowioK' them to 

 become diy ; in fact, if the drainage ia good the supply can hardly be too 

 liberal, but care must be taken that tbe soil do not become sodden by 

 frequent, heavy, needless waterinps, otherwise the plants will decay, tbe 

 foliayo become yellow, and tbe flower bud?< fall in winter. It is well to pre- 

 serve a moist atmospbere and to syringe the planta twice daily ; affurd shade 

 from bright sun, which should be continued throughout the summer. The 

 sun falliot; powerfully on the leaves whilst wet causes them to spot. After 

 the flower buds are "set the plant should be kept cool, and when growth is 

 complete moisture should be discontinued. 



Besting Eucharis amakonica (R.J.).— It should bo rested for six to eight 

 weeks in a cooler, drier atmosphere, and light position, and when placed in 

 heat and moisturo the plants usually flower in from four to sis weeks. 



Ardisia crenulata Culture (.1 Lady ^mafe wr).— Now is the proper time 

 to repot it unless it is in flower. It is best to repot it before it starts into 

 growth ; or if repotting be delayed until the plant is in flower*, repot as soon 

 as the flowering is past and the ben-ies set. Remove only the loose soil, and 

 return the plant to the same size of pot or one a little loi-ger. Equal parts 

 of turfy loam, sandy peat, and leaf st-il, with a sixth of silver sand will gi-ow 

 it well. It ought now to be flowering in order to produce hemes for nest 

 winter. Keep moist, but avoid making the soil sodden. 



Glazing (J. P., York). — The mode of glazing resemble? in a great measure one 

 that the late Mr. Knight of the CbelseaNiirsery pointed outnearlytbirtyyears 

 ago. The glazing bars were prepared in tbe usual way, and instead of a bed of 

 soft putty on which to place and fix tbe square, a thick coating of paint was put 

 on, and while it was wet the glass was put m its place, and aratber thick coating 

 of paint fiUed-in tbe space above. The only difference between that plan and 

 the one you recommend is, that no tacks were used. A plant bou;e glazed in 

 that way had been in use some time, but it evidently had not fully answered 

 all that was required of it, otherwise it would have been copied elsewhere. 

 The tacks, however, will certaioly be useful, but there may be mistakes with 

 them ; for we saw a case, soon after tbe large squares of glass became fashion- 

 able, of a builder auxious to improve the appearance of the glazing of some 

 pits he had put up, and where the glass did not lie level; he put in a few tacks 

 to partly press down the glassso as tobemorelevelaud uniform, and apparently 

 succeeded in doing so without injury to the glass, but tbe next day ahaost all 

 the squares so treated were cracked across. We do not expect this will occur 

 with tbe plan you recommended, but tight pressing must bo avoided. We 

 may say that we have bad a good deal of experience with glazing, done by all 

 the squares slidiug-up from the bottom in a groove cut in the bar. This does 

 very well for new work ; very little putty is needed, but it is awkward to 

 repair such lights, and fixins slips of wood on to take the places of putty does 

 not answer well, as the wet gots in, and the frequent fasteuing to the bar 

 by nails or screws tends to destroy it. We may mention to all who con- 

 template making experiments in glazing, that tbe glazing-bar ought to be 

 painted, and in doing so let the paint extend at least an eighth of an inch 

 over the glass on each side, so as to make a water-tight joiot at the place. 

 Even in the ordinary way of glazing this is necessary, as putty shrinks in the 

 drying, or it may be the timber does so, and leaves an opening for the wet to 

 get in. V.'^e hardly thiuk any of tbe modes of glazing li'iely to be recom- 

 mended will entirely dii^pcnse with paint, much as we wish they could do so. 



Parasite on Gehanidm [Bi'-ou). — The plant growing on the stem of your 

 Bijou Geraniam is Orobanche elatior. Tall Broom- Rape. 



Cucumber Fruit DAMriNG (E. C. P.).— The cause is too low a tempera- 

 ture with too moist an atmosphere. Give them a brisker bottom beat and 

 more top heat, admitting air cartfuUy, but take care to avoid a chill. In 

 sprinkling, syringing lightly, and watering, use water of the same tempera- 

 ture as the h:)Use.or about 75\ See what Mr. Douglas has written on Ca- 

 cumber treatment in a late number of the Journal. 



Erecting a Lean-to Peach House (Chas. Broome). — Your wall will 

 answer well for the erection of a Peach house, having trees against the wall 

 and others in pots, or planted out in front. To accommodate two rows of 

 trees in front, in addition to those on the back wall, you will needa^ide 

 house. The first row of trees should not be nearer the back wall than ti feet, 

 and betwetn that and the next row allow 5 feet, with 2 feet 6 inches to the 

 front wall, making the width 13 feet 6 inches. Tbe front wall we should 

 have S feet high, and 2 feet 6 inches of front lights, opening the entire length 

 of the house, hioi^ed to the top plate, and opened by lever and cranks. The 

 roof to have top lights 2 feet 3 inches wide the entire length of the house, 

 and hinged to the top wall plate, opening throughout tbe length by means of 

 cranks and lever. We presume you do not propose to give more firo heat 

 than a little in spring to keep ont frost and secure a dry atmosphere at 

 blossoming time, and in autumn to ripen the wood, for which two rows of 

 4-inch pipes along the front of the house will bo sufficient. The trees should 

 be 6 feet apart in quincunx order. 



Emigrating (^4rtj?ow^). — We never advise; it requires more information 

 than we possess. We have known gardeners do well in Victoria, but you had 

 better write to the Emigration Commissioners; they will give you full in- 

 formation. 



Gaultberia procumbens (Mrs. ar.) — Its only English name is Trailing 

 Gaultberia, and it wa^ named in honour of Dr. Gaulthier, a Canadian phy- 

 sician and botanist. By the Canadians it is called " Partridge Berries" and 

 " Mountain Tea," being used as a superior substiiuto for ordinary China tea. 

 It was cultivated more than a century ago by Philip Miller. Any florist 

 could supply you with a plant for Is. or Is. 6d. We know of no plant called 

 Inguermoiue. If you scut a flower we mii;ht identify it. 



'* Two Kinds of Glass-cutters were offered by us— tbe Patent Glass-cutter, 

 at 5s. 6rf , and tbe Adamantine- wheel Glass-cutter, at Is. Gd , the sale of which 

 has been since stopped by tbe patentee. When we sent the Patent Cutter 

 out at 5s. Gd. we offered to reset the wheel, if the cutter was returned, for the 

 sum of 6d., and we can still do so. The Adamantine-wheel Glass-cutter 

 being only an imitation of its better rival, has no provision for re-sharpening, 

 and therefore when the wheel is worn out ie worthless. Is your currespoudeut 

 (T.Norton, p. 182) confounding tbe two glass-cutters? If ho was supplied 

 ■with a 5s, 6d. cutter, and will return it to us, we shall have much pleasure in 



resetting the wheel for him ; hut we are sorry if it was an Adamantine Oatter, 

 for we are unable to repair it.— Dick Radclyffe it Co." 



Bois IMMORTEL (Upnor Castle).— It is Erythrina glauca, or Glaucoaa- 

 leaved Coral Tree. 



Green Fly on Wall Roses {M. E. H.).— Bosea trained against a wall 

 are frequently more liable to the attack of green fly, often from their roots 

 being too dry; and sometimes owing to their position, they do not get the 

 benefit of a free circulation of air and rain on their foliage. The free use of 

 clear water with a garden engine, or, if that is not sufficient, water at 12tJ'^ to 

 140" of temperature, with soft soap added at the rate of an ounce to two 

 gallons, using clearwater afterwards, will generally put au end to the depreda- 

 tions of the insect. But all Roses against walls should be supplied with good 

 mulching, and with liquid manure whenever there is any tendency to green fly. 



Best Twelve Tea Roses for Conservatory (A. S.).— Souvenir d'uQ 

 Ami, Madame Wiltermoz, Niphctos, Belle Lyonnaise, Boule d'Or, Adam, 

 Louise de Sa^ie, Madame Bravy, Souvenir d'Eliae, Perle de Lyon, Homere 

 or Catherine Mermet, Yicomtesse de Gazes. 



Six CLiHBmG Roses for Roof of Conservatory (Irfem). — Marechal 

 Niel, Gloire de Dijon, CiHine Forestier, Climbing Devoniensis, Lamarque^ 

 Jan3 Hardy or Madame TriUe. 



Geranium Leaves Spotted (T. C).— The leaves are crumpled and spotted 

 owing to a moist and cold atmospbere, especially at night, with too litt.e air. 

 Give more aii', leaving a little on at night, so as to prevent the deposition of 

 moisture on the leaves. Tbe sun falling powerfully on them whilst web 

 causes them to spot. Have them dry by giving air before the sun shines 

 powerfully on them, admitting air and light freely. See that the soil is 

 sweet and the driinago good. More heat with less moisture immediately on 

 the plants will afford you a remedy. 



Azalea Leaves Falling (T. TK L.I.— Continue the plants in the vinery, 

 sprinkling them overhead twice daily, but not heavily, watering only to keep 

 tbe sod moist. We fear, however, that the plants are dying or dead, probably 

 from being supplied with water, which has caused the decay of the root-stem. 

 Avoid watering upon the stem, and keep it raised in the centre of the pot> 

 If the plants reipure repotting do so now, loosening the sides of the ball, and 

 giving only a small shift, employing sandy peat. They should remain in the 

 vinery until the buds are set, and then be removed to a cooier and more airy 

 structure. 



Primula sinensis Seed Sowing (Idem).— DreAn a pot well, place over the 

 drainage an inch of the rougher parts of the compost, which may be equal 

 parts turfy loam, sandy peat, leaf soil, and silver sand, filling the pots to 

 within half au inch of the rim ; make smooth, and scatter the seeds evenly, 

 covering with au eighth of au inch of fine soil. Stand in a hotbed and keep> 

 moist, and near the~^ glass after the plants appear. Prick-off in pans au inch 

 apart when in the rough leaf, and pot-off singly when fit. 



Names of Plants (Rev. J. Sm^t/i).— Omphalodes verna, Blue Venus's 

 Navelwort, a native of the south of Europe. (O. il/.).— We cannot name your 

 Azaleas, nor any other varieties of florists' flowers ; they are too numerous 

 and too nearly alike. (R. D. B.).—\, Iberis sempervirens ; 2, Genista 

 Scorpius; 3, Linaria Cymbalaria. {Box).—\, a Carex, perhaps C. viparia; 

 2, leaf only ; 3, Pulmonaria officinalis. The Apple is the iVyken Pippin. 

 (0. ill.).— 4, Adiantum hispidulum; 5, Onychium japonicum; 6, Pellsea 

 hastata. 



POULTRY, BEE, AND PIGEON CHKONIOLE. 



IMPEOVING FARM POULTRY. 



I BEAD with pleasure Mr. Nutman's reply in last week's 

 Journal to my communication, but regret to see that little or no 

 importance ia attached to the subject by the numerous readers 

 of this paper. That is the conclusion I have arrived at, and I 

 think the right one too, from the fact that the matter has been 

 allowed to drop. That it is an important one cannot, I think, bo 

 denied, and I am sorry one more able than myself has not taken 

 it in hand. I will now take the points of objection to Brahma- 

 Dorking fowls raised in Mr. Nutman's paper, and endeavour to 

 show, as clearly and as quickly as possible, that they are ths 

 result of mere prejudice on the part of those from whom I least 

 expected to find it. At first I did not like to see a Brahma cook 

 about the place, but the result of the first sitting of eggs so 

 altered my opinion that I will not, if I can possibly avoid it, be 

 without one. I caunot understand how it is the IJrahma eggs 

 (I do not recommend Brahma pullets) referred to were so small j 

 mine, as a rule, are good-sized ones, and what is deficient in that 

 respect is made up by the extra richness, of which a great many 

 people make a great feature. The eggs from the first-cross 

 pullets are really very fine, are almost of the same colour as the 

 Brahma's eggs, and are very plentiful, the birds usually laying 

 seventeen to eighteen in as many days after getting broody. 



The chickens from these two breeds do not show the slightest 

 signs (I am, of course, speaking from my own experience) of the 

 yellow tinge, which I well know some do object to, but are quite 

 as white as any Dorking bird could be. The last-named class 

 may do well in some instances — in fact, I am aware they do ; 

 but they require a place almost specially provided for them, or 

 they will not thrive. Now, it is quite different with the half- 

 breds ; they are just the reverse. The cross destroys that 

 natural tenderness of the Dorking, and, what is still better, re- 

 moves the coarseness of the Brahma, thereby giving at once 

 such a fowl as we are in want of. Such a bird is peculiarly 

 suited for the runs of the labouring class, as eggs and chickens 

 are very plentiful, and the latter arrive at the killing size sooner, 

 I think, than any others. 



I aoi obliged to Mr. Nutman for drawing attention to the ad- 

 vertisement' in which is shown the proposed age, but I had not 



