Wool. 81 



follow certain steaming and further tentering or stretching out 

 operations, and finally " pressing," the fabric then being ready 

 for the market. 



This represents the finishing of a typical woollen fabric, 

 but there are many variations and some special processes. 

 Sometimes, for instance, the piece is wound on to a roller in 

 hot water and finally on to a steaming roller and steam is 

 blown through the fabric ; in fact very often it is a truism 

 to say that the fabric is " made " in the finishing. The 

 writer's grandfather, for example, secured awards at several 

 of the exhibitions from 1851 onwards for his fine broadcloths, 

 but these goods often took six weeks to finish. 



The dyeing of fabrics previous to the finishing operations is 

 a process of much importance. Until quite recently the 

 natural dyes — logwood, madder, fustic, cochineal, &c., and 

 natural indigo, were the dyes almost invariably employed on 

 the best wool cloths. The introduction of the aniline, 

 alizarine, and other artificial dyes has led to a vast extension 

 of the dj^er's " gamut " ; but unfortunately quality, at least 

 in some cases, has deteriorated. The greatest discovery in 

 recent years has been that of artificial indigo. As it is practi- 

 cally as fast as the natural product there is not the slightest 

 objection to its use ; in fact, so like the natural product is it 

 that the chemist has no satisfactory means of differentiating 

 between the two. Unfortunately all sorts of cheap dyes are 

 put into goods of the Army and Navy type, with just a 

 " topping " or " bottoming " of indigo, the goods then being 

 sold as " indigo-dyed." The " Textile Institute " is at present 

 concerning itself Avith this question on the initiative of the 

 Yorkshire Committee, and it is probable that in the near 

 future a definition of " indigo-dyed goods " will be agreed 

 upon l)y those interested. 



This brief description of the principles involved, it is 

 hoped will ena1)le the wool grower to realise the forethought 

 and skill which the manufacturer must put into his work, 

 and the importance of having a good foundation to work on in 

 the shape of well grown and well " got-up " wool. The 

 manufacturer should be al^le to pay more for such wools, 

 and, if at first the progressive farmer does not feel that he 

 gets the recognition he merits, he should remember that it 

 is almost certain that it is but a question of time. 



9. Typical Wool Cloths. — Possibly to the ordinary 

 individual the two best known yarns or cloths are worsted 

 and woollen. Our grandmothers always thought of "worsted" 

 as a rough sort of yarn which would naturally make a rough 

 sort of cloth if it were employed with this end in view ; but 

 generally it was knitted into stocking, &c. This idea was but 



VOL. 72. G 



