82 Wool. 



natural, for until the fine wools were combed and actually 

 spun for the making of really heavy cloths it was the rougher 

 sorts of wool only that were spun to thick counts of yarn on 

 the worsted principle. With the perfecting of combing 

 machinery about the middle of the nineteenth century this 

 limitation was removed, and to-day as fine and soft yarns are 

 spun on the worsted principle (with fibres parallel) as on the 

 woollen principle (with fibres mixed up). 



When using the term " woollen " the fine silky handling 

 broad-cloth, made of the finest Saxony or Silesian wool, was 

 no doubt oiiginally thought of. Thus, so closely do some of 

 us associate the woollen texture with fine wool yarns and 

 cloths that we frequently speak of the " woollen " trade of 

 Bradford, oblivious of the fact that while Bradford principally 

 deals in fine wool fabrics and yarns, it produces hardly a piece 

 of woollen fabric, while Leeds, still producing chiefly woollen 

 fabrics, uses comparatively little fine wool. 



It is undoubtedly best to speak of wool fabrics as wool 

 fabrics and not as either woollen or worsted ; but if we wish 

 to diff'erentiate between woollen and worsted cloths then we 

 should use the term woollen or worsted according to the 

 nature of the yarn of which the cloth in question is 

 constructed. 



Having dealt with the broad question of woollen and 

 worsted, attention may now be directed to details concerning 

 the type of cloths and yarns generally in use. 



Bradford concerns itself roughly with four types of yarns 

 spun from four distinct wools, viz. : — 



Botany Yarns^ spun from pure Merino wools (GO's to 90's 

 quality). 



' Crossbred Yarns, spun from Merino and English wools 

 (44's to 5(S's quality). 



Demi-Lnstre Yarns, spun from medium length English 

 wools (28's to 44's quality). 



Lustre Yarns, spun from long English wools (28's to 44's 

 quality). 



The following list gives an idea of the fabrics into which 

 these yarns are woven : — 



Botany Yarns are woven into the finest dress goods, such 

 as Cashmeres, Merinos, fine twills, &c. ; also into worsted 

 coatings and trouserings for men's wear. These yarns are also 

 employed in the hosiery trade ; also with cotton warps for 

 linings, such as Italians and twills. 



Crossbred Yarns are woven into medium dress goods such 

 as serges, twills, &c. ; also into the rougher coatings and 

 trouserings for men's wear. Some special qualities of these 

 yarns are employed for hosiery and the heavier flannels. 



