Wool. 83 



Demi-Lustre Yarns are woven into the lower qualities of 

 what are termed lustre goods— goods consisting of a cotton 

 warp with a wool weft. A fair percentage are also woven 

 into clean, bare twill fabrics for ladies' wear. 



Lustre Yarns are woven into the typical lustre cloth in 

 imitation of the true mohair and alpaca plain fabric variously 

 termed brilliantine, Orleans, lustre, &c., &c. The warp of these 

 fabrics is of necessity cotton, but the bulk of the texture is 

 pure wool of the highest lustre and beauty. Bradford stands 

 unrivalled in the whole world for the manufacture of these 

 goods. 



The heavy woollen districts of Yorkshire now consume 

 large quantities of mungo and shoddy and comparatively little 

 wool.^ Some few firms, however, endeavour to rival the super- 

 fine army and box cloths of the west of England, and these 

 firms buy the very finest clothing wools displayed at the 

 London wool sales — top price wools in fact. 



Various combinations of worsted and woollen yarns are 

 made. Thus, a fine worsted mule-spun yarn is woven with a 

 fine woollen weft to produce the famous Amazon cloth which 

 Bradford has only learnt to make as perfectly as the French 

 within the last six years. For the lower army and navy 

 cloths worsted spun warp is often woven with woollen spun 

 weft, making an excellent combination. There is also a large 

 trade done in carpet yarns, these being most largely made 

 from Herdwick and black-face wools. The various combina- 

 tions of materials employed in the low woollen trade are 

 worthy of more than passing comment, and must be considered 

 at greater length. 



Wool Substitutes and Trade Definitions — Attention has 

 already been directed to the misuse of the term " indigo- 

 dyed." Perhaps, an even greater anomally exists in the use 

 of the term " woollen fabric." Here it should be noted that 

 a worsted fabric (lustre or botany) must be made of pure 

 wool and nothing else. On the woollen principles of spinning, 

 however, any short fibred stuff msLj be employed with the 

 result that there has been such a marked deterioration in 

 the true quality of woollen cloths that it is a most difficult 

 matter to purchase a really well spun and woven woollen 

 fabric. 



Tailor's clippings and old clothing are torn up into a 

 fibrous mass tei-med mungo, shoddy, extract, &c., according 

 to the source fi-om which it is derived or according to the 

 fa])rics from which it has been made. Now mungo and 

 shoddy, although in a sense wool, have lost most of their 



' NoTK. — -There is a most marked tendency to use more pure wool in 

 these districts to-day. 



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