Jnlj 22, 1875. ] 



JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 



79 



pots may give you 1^ lb. of frait, or it may be considerably less, and what is 

 wanted is line large fruit. Small, though there be as much weight for weight 

 as of finer fruit, is always at a great discoaut ; six or eight largo fruit to a 

 plant will be worth twice as much as four time;* that number of small fruit. 

 The pots we should stand upon the soil, with no packing of any kind between 

 the pots, as the plants revel in air playing about them. Three rows would 

 be sufficient for a frame 4 feet wide. The kinds most likely to answer your 

 purpose are Sir Joseph Pastou and President. The runner next the old 

 plant is, of course, the first runner, and any beyond it should bo cut off 

 directly beyond the runner layered, and all runners from tbe young plants 

 should be removed as they appear. 



British Qceen STRA-n-BERRY os Light Sofl (C. 1'.).— It would be neces- 

 sary to trench yoor soil as deep as you can without bringlng-up more than 

 a few inches of the poor subsoil, and at the bottom of the trench apply the 

 manure rather fresh — i.e., about half rotten, and fork it in before applying 

 the soil of the next spit, which should be mixed with an equal proportion vt 

 marly elay, and upon this again manure, mixing it by a good forking-in with 

 the soil below; and you may liaish tlie bottom spit, which will be the top 

 soil of the first trenched part, in the same manner as the first, applying to 

 the surface a dressing of old manure and furkiug it well in. Allow a few 

 dayp, or better until after a good rain, and the ground being in good working 

 order tread it the same as if you were going to grow Onions, the harder the 

 better. The surface after plantiug to be only lightly stirred in the spring, 

 and well manured in the autumn. There is reason to conclude that with 

 liberal suppUes of water in dry weather after flowering you will have good 

 crops of fruit. 



Raspberry (Idem). — Prince of Wales (Cutbnsh's), is a most excellent Rasp- 

 berry; Carter's Prolific and Fastolf are both good. " With light soil, deeply 

 dug, well manured, and mulched during hot weather," yoa ought to obtain 

 exhibition fruit, but you omit one essential— viz., watering before applying 

 the mulch, and afterwards if dry weather ensue to continue the bearing and 

 insure fine fruit. 



Grapes Mildewed (B, H. Margctts). — If the mildiw is killed wash off the 

 sulphur at once. Do not diminish atmospheric moisture until the Grapes 

 commence to colour, but be careful to admit a constant current of air night 

 and day. Do not damp the house late in the afternoon, and do not clo&e 

 entirely at night. Early and sufficient air is the best preventive of mildew. 

 In dull weather you will not need to use much moisture in the house; it is 

 only on sunny daja that frequent damping will be necessary. 



Vines Unfruitful {OJd Subscriber).— 'We are inclined to think that you 

 have kept your house too close, as the leaf sent us is scalded. We further 

 think the wood of your Vines was not sufiiciently ripened. The sitie shoots 

 which spring from the main stem of the Viae should not be closer than 

 15 inches apart on either side of the rod. Every leaf is then accessible to 

 the light, and if suQicient air is admitted the lextureof the foliage will be 

 stout instead of flimsy, which is the case with the leaf you have enclosed. 

 T h i n out the shoots to that distance apart, stop the shoots so that one leaf 

 does not overlap another, pinch out all laterals as they appear, admit plenty 

 of air, and if the weather is dull after the Grapes are cut apply fire heat ; the 

 wood will then be perfectly hard and ripe by the autumn, and Grapes wiil 

 foUow. The roots may also have penetrated too deeply. On this point see 

 our reply to "East Yvrkshin\" 



Shrivelled Grapes {A. £.).— Tour Vines are in a deplorable state. The 

 cause of the t-hrivelling may be traced to the '* cutting away of the young 

 growth by armfals after the berries were thinned." It is a barbarous practice, 

 and frequently causes a corresponding decay of the roots by the check they 

 received reciprocally with the mutilation of the branches. If your Vines are 

 bearing a heavy crop reheve the pressure by cutting out entirely all the worst 

 buaches. Allow the laterals to grow to restore the sluggish root action, yet 

 not to grow to a thicket, but stop them soon enough to prevent overcrowd- 

 ing. Vndue crowding of the foliage should be prevented by timely pinching, 

 and not be encouraged by a let-alone policy of several weeks' duration to 

 ctdminate in a grand slaughtering day. Admit air, and use atmospheric 

 moisture judiciously; leave the top ventilators slightly open all ni^^ht, and 

 especially increase the air as soon as needed each morning. By this treat- 

 ment the injury to your Vines may not be permanent. You may repoit their 

 condition in a month, when possibly we may be able to give you further 

 advice founded on their condition at that time. 



Grapes Mildewed (D. G.).— The cause of mildew is mainly ascribed to a 

 wet border, a low wet site, and a tco close and moist atmosphere; but we 

 have known it prevail under opposite chxima stances. Dust the infested parts, 

 both leaves and fniit, with flowers of sulphur, and admit air more freely, 

 especially at night. 



Vines Unhealthy (East Yorkshirc).~I{ the roots of your Tokays had 

 descended into the subsoil, and so caused the injury of which you complain, 

 we think the Black Hamburghs would at least have been similarly injured. 

 We think the mischief is caused by the red spider. We hope you sent us the 

 worst leaf you could find, for it is literally devoured with the' pest. Drench 

 the foliage ttoroughly with pure water, applying it forcibly to every leaf, 

 evading as mach as possible the bunches. By three thorough washings cu 

 alternate dajs and the treatment you are otherwise adopting you will eradi- 

 cate the pest. At the same time it would be well to remove the surface of 

 your border, laving bare the principal roots, and replace with charred refuse 

 and lighter soil, covering them about 4 inches, and over this place 5 or 

 6 inches of good manure. This will enrich the surface and tend to promote 

 an emission of fresh roots. Rich surface soil is the best means of preventing 

 the descent of the roots into the subsoil. Ton may do this at once, taking 

 core that the roots do not become dry by exposure. But with the best care 

 of the loots you cannot hope to obtain Grapes unless yoa wage a s'lccessful 

 war against the red spider. This year the nutriment of the border has been 

 appropriated by the insects instead of by the Vines. We shall be glad to 

 give you the best aid we can at any future time when you feel we can be of 

 assistance. 



Plant Affections (S. E.).— The Hollyhocks are severely affected by the 

 new disease, Pucinnia malvacearum, which reached this country from France 

 two years ago. In the number for May 28th, 1874, may be found a full illus- 

 trated account of this disease. Washing evei? individual leaf with a strong 

 6olutionof soft soap might check the growth of the fungus, but we fear the 

 only way of eradicating it is to bum the plants. The Rose leaves are affected 

 with the orange fungus, Urcdo rosct. Syringe the shoots with a solution of 

 soft soap of a strength of 3 ozb. per gallon at a temperature of 100- to 120", 

 then dust with sulphur. The diseased shoots from your Pear trees suggest 

 that the soil is in sufiiciently drained. Draining the soil and the encourage- 

 ment of Btirface roots by rich top-dressiogs ia the treatment we recommend. 



Fig Thee foe South-west Aspect (A Cottage Gardener).— It is as yoa 

 are informed a good covering for a wall daring the summer, having large 

 handsome foliage; but, losing its leaves in winter, is not ho desirable as even 

 Ivy, aniess account be taken of its fruit, which it is likely yon may in your 

 mild climate secure npoa a south-west wall. The kind moat litely to succeed 

 is the Brunswick, a plant of which you may obtain of most nurserymen at a 

 moderate price. The best mode of training is the fan, training so as to cover 

 the wall with branches and shoot?, having the latter about 9 inches distance 

 apart ; and the only pruning required ia to cat-out the long, bare, old branches 

 in spring, after the trees become crowded, and replace them with young 

 bearing wooi3. A rather light and open soil is best and only moderately rich, 

 for in rich soil the tree goes too much to wood, affording little fruit. 



House for Cucumbers (Amateur). — If yoa sink the houso 2 feet the 

 necessity for so much brickwork above ground will be avoided, and for afford- 

 ing bottom heat and for the bed you will require a depth of about 4 feet. We 

 should have about 2 feet of side lights, and to open all the length on one side, 

 or every other light on both sides. The width being 12 feet with borders 

 along each side with two rows of 4-inch pipes to each border and on a level, and 

 18 inches below the level of the surface of the bed^^, which we should have on 

 a level with the brickwork, forming the sides of the bed inside or 3 feet from 

 tbe floor, the external walls being 9 inches thick, and a foot higher as before 

 stated. Leave 3 feet ia tbe centre for the path, and the beds of equal width 

 on both sides. Allow a fall for the roof of 4 feet 6 inches calculating from the 

 eaves. Hot-water pipes as a mode of heating are vastly superior to flues, and 

 cheaper in the long run, thongh more expensive at fir»t. You may calculate 

 on having fruit ten months out of the twelve, and this allows a month for 

 each renewal of plants, the plaots being raised in pots and planted out when 

 strong. As to produce, that depends upon management and kinds. Under 

 good management you should cut a thousand, and that is allowing a largo 

 margin for mishaps. Cucumbers are easily managed, nothing but what an 

 amateur may soon learn. 



Cucumber Failure (D.).— We think you have a mild form of the disease, 

 and should at once clear out the plants and s jil, giving the house a thorough 

 cleaning. The description you give of your plants accords well with the 

 disease for which there is no remedy, and the plants from the gangrene you 

 name will not give yoa fruit of good qu^ty should they recover, hence we 

 advise their removal. Plant in turfy loam taken where the soil is light rather 

 than heavy, and use this broken up fine without admixture of any kind, ap- 

 plying what manure may be require! to the surface after the plants are in a 

 bearing state. The soil you have been using appears worn-out ji'arden soil. 



Seedling Asparagus in Old Bed iHI. V. .4.).— The young plants will do 

 no harm in the old bed, but will be good for filling up vacant space ; but they 

 should be thinned to at least 9 inches apart, and kept that distance from the 

 old plants, removing all the others. By removing the old " grains " bearing 

 berries in autumn go soon as the leaves are cast or it becomes yellow you will 

 remove the danger of a further increase of seedlings, as the seeds will adhere 

 to the haulm producing them. 



Roses Budded on Manetti Suckers (Idem). — Tour only plan will be to 

 wait until November or early in December, and then take up the suckers with 

 the Roses upon them, preserving to the suckers about 4 to 6 inches of root- 

 stem, and then plant so that the junction of the Roses with the stojks will 

 be about 3 inches, not more, below the surface. They should be prunel-in to 

 4 to 6 eyes from the soil, according to their strength, in February. 



Standard Roses (M. C ). — John Hopper, CbarlesLefebvre, Alfred Colomb, 

 La France, Mmo. La Baronne de Rothschild, Dupuy Jamain, Boule de Neige, 

 and Mme. C. Joigneaus. If you can do with these as pillar Roses or strong 

 dwarfs we can recommend them in preference to standards. We have named 

 eight distinct in colour, and good in habit and growth. 



Azaleas and Rhododendrons from Cuttings (S.). — Our reply refers 

 to hardy kinds. Take the cuttings of the current year's growth when the 

 wood next the old wood is nearly ripe, and insert them in sandy peat cDvered 

 with an inch layer of silver sand in a shady or north border, and cover with 

 a hand-light, or they may be inserted in cold frames. They requira to be 

 kept close until rooted, which is facilitated by, after the cuttings have firmed 

 a callus, placing them in a gentle bottom heat. After they are rooted admit 

 air freely. 



Hardy Perennias (Max). — Aqnilegia vulgaris (seed), Campanula rapun- 

 culoides (division), Convallaria majalis, Lily of the Valley (divi^iion), Del- 

 phinium Belladonna (seed and division), Pink (seed), Carnation (seed), 

 Helleborus niger (division), Hemerocallis fiava (division), Iberis Garreiiana 

 (cuttings). Iris germanica (division), Dielytra spectabilis (cuttings and 

 division), Lilium auratum. Lychnis diui-na flore-pleno, Mjosoti'^ dissiti- 

 flora (seed and cuttings), Narcissus Ajax masimns, N. poeticas pleous, Pfeonia 

 officinalis rubra plena (division), P. alibiflora fragracs (divisioni. Phlox decus- 

 sata var. (seed, division, or cuttings), double Primroses (division), Pyrethrum, 

 doable (seed and division), Sasifraga longifolia vera (division^, Schizosfylia 

 coccinea (division), Scilla sitierica, Sisyrinchium grandiflorum (division), 

 Spirtea filipendula plena, S. japonica (division), TrolUus europreas (division), 

 and Violets Victoria Reglna, Queen of Violets, and Neapolitan (suckers and 

 runners). 



Fruit Trees not Bearing— Kinds for North-midland Counties 

 (B. S.).~The anfruitfuluess of the trees is probably attributable to too free 

 prowth, for which the most likely course to pursue to secure fruit would be to 

 lift them in the autumn after the leaves have fallen. Apphs that woald 

 suit your locality are, Di'^ffert : Devonshire Q'larrenden, Irish Peach, Kerry 

 Pippin , Margaret, Downton Pippin, Franklin's Golden Pippin, Ribston Pippin, 

 Adam's Pearmain, Bees Pool, Cockle Pippin. Sturmer Pippin, Scarlet Non- 

 pareil. Kitcht^n: Keswick CodUn. Lord SuaieKl, Nunesuch, Manx Codlin, 

 Emperor Alexander, Hawthornden, T.^wer of Glammis, Alfriston. Bedfordshire 

 Foundling, Blenheim Pippin, Dumelow's See.Uing, Mere de M'-uage, and 

 Northern Greening. Pears: Doyenne d'£t>'. Citron des Carmes, Jargonelle, 

 Wifliams's Bon ChrL-tien, Beurre d'Amanlis, Louise Bonne of Jersey, Comte 

 de Lamy. Jersey GratioH, Red Doyennt, Thompson's, JIarie Louise, Beurre 

 Diel, Knight's Monarch, Dr Trousseau, and Bergamo: ta Esperen. Plums: 

 July Green Gage, De Montfort, Green Gage. OuUin's Golden, Transparent 

 Gage, Huling's Superb, Kirke's, Coe's Golden Drop. Culinary Plums: 

 Early Rivers, Gisbome's, Orleans, Victoria, Prince Englebert, and Damscn. 

 Cherries : Early Jaboulay, Werder's Early Black, Black Tartarian, May Duke, 

 Cleveland Bigarreau. Elton, Mary, Late Duke, and Coe's Lace Carnation. 

 Culinary : Kentish, Belle de Magniflque, and Morello. 



Potatoes {Subscriber).— Yonr Potatoes will probably be none the worse 

 for the soaking they have received. Allow them to remain in the ground to 

 mature. 

 Winter Lettuce (St. Edmund). — The Lettuce you mean is the Bath Co»- 



