37G 



JOURNAL OF HOBTICULTDRE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 



( Octolier 28, 187B. 



others who at this season pot-up Pelargoninms, itc, and place 

 them in their vineries, the extra heat given to the Vines will 

 be beneficial also in assistinp; the re-establishment of the 

 newly-potted plants. — William Taylok, Longleat. 



PLANTS FOR CUT FLOWERS AND SPRAYS. 



No. 0. 



Vallota iTRruiiEA. — The ScarboronghLily is so named from 

 association with Lord Scarborough, and not from any reference 

 to the well-known watering place of that name, as might be 

 concluded from an observation I heard the other day — viz., 

 " the Vallota did remarkably well on the east coast," and I 

 would beg to add in every greenhouse in any part of the king- 

 dom. It is the finest of all greenhouse bulbs, and very free- 

 blooming, doing also very well as a window plant The flowers, 

 as everyone knows, are bright deep scarlet, and when going- 

 ofi have a tinge of purple ; hence, perhaps, its name. For 

 vase-filling for table purposes in its season it is matchless, the 

 deep yellow anthers contrasting well with the petal-colouring. 

 By itself, or a ground of it studded with white Liliums is 

 Bnperb,or a margin of Lapageria rosea blooms alternating with 

 the white variety (L. alba) and filled-up with Vallota, and a 

 lew white Lilium blooms interspersed, and moderate green used, 

 not to hide but to relieve, a charming vase is had for table. It 

 flowers in a greenhouse at the close of August and early in Sep- 

 tember ; and plants placed outdoors in an open situation will 

 flower at the close of September, and may then be moved under 

 glass. In any light airy position — in a pit or greenhouse from 

 which frost is excluded, or a room window — it is quite at home, 

 requiring abundant supplies of water when in growth, which 

 will be during the spring and early summer months, and after 

 June water need only be given to keep the leaves from flagging, 

 but they are not to be dried-off at any time, the plant being 

 strictly evergreen. Potting may be done in November, or in 

 February or March, potting with the ball entire, or removing 

 only any loose soil, and not removing any offsets unless stock 

 is wanted, and giving no larger size of pot than to admit a 

 little fresh soil all around. A compost of turfy loam, with 

 a third of leaf soil, with or without a fourth of old cow 

 dung will grow it well, affording good drainage. The variety 

 eximia is considered finer, and major has a stronger habit, 

 large flowers, darker foliage, has a white throat, and is paler 

 in colour. 



Jacobean Lilt (Sprekeliaformosissima). — This plant flowers 

 in early summer, and by introducing it to gentle heat from 

 January to March flowers may be had snccessionally up to 

 those flowering in the greenhouse. If the bulbs are dried 

 their after well-doing is best secured by affording bottom heat 

 after potting or repotting, as some do before starting, for 

 though they will flower the leaf-growth is poor, and the after- 

 flowering is meagre until the plants recover vigour. They are 

 best potted when in full growth or some time after flowering, 

 well watering until the growth is complete, and then only to 

 keep from flagging, withholding water altogether when the 

 leaves turn yellow. Half a dozen or more bulbs may be grown 

 in a G-inch pot. Good turfy loam with a third of leaf soil and 

 a little old cow dung will grow them perfectly. Keep the 

 plants in a greenhouse during the winter, not watering until 

 the flower scapes appear. In summer a cold pit is a suitable 

 place for them, but I am informed that in a well-drained soil 

 with protective material in severe weather that this Lily makes 

 a splendid outdoor display. I can remember its being grown 

 in a Tine stove, and flowering in April. 



Ckinums. — Crinum capense alba and its variety rosea have 

 funnel-shaped flowers in large umbels; the flowers are also 

 large individually, and very sweet. In a greenhouse, where 

 they want plenty of light, they flower in April or May, and out- 

 doors later. The plants require an abundant supply of water 

 during growth, and after that is complete gradually reduce it ; 

 none to be given when at rest, only the leaves are not to be 

 allowed to flag. A well-drained soil outdoors is most suitable, 

 and a sheltered position. C. amabile is a stove subject and 

 grand, having twenty to thirty large rosy flowers on a scape 3 to 

 4 feet high, the tube 6 inches long, and lobes as long as the tube. 

 C. asiaticum has white flowers, twenty or more on a scape. 

 C. americanum has also white flowers ; they are all highly but 

 delicately fragrant, and require a stove, as do C. zeylanicum, 

 C. scabrum, and C. Makoyanum. All have a grandeur aboul 

 them for cutting not found out of theAmarjUids. C. Ilerberti- 

 anum is a hjbrid between scabrum and capense, blush with 

 red stripes, and reqnire.9 a greenhouse ; also C. riparium. 



purple; and C. aquaticum, rosy red, a semiaquatic, which 

 needs to be in a pan of water during growth. 



All Crinums require turfy yellow loam with a fourth of cow 

 dung or a third of leaf soil, and good drainage, as during 

 growth the watering can hardly be too abundant. To keeping 

 at great distances from the glass in shade, making no difference 

 between the growing and resting period in watering — regular 

 waterings being abominable treatment — is to be attributed the 

 indifferent flowering of this family ; but with very free water- 

 ing during growth, enjoying full exposure to light, and with a 

 drier and warmer atmosphere when maturing and at rest, they 

 flower freely and are plants of great beauty. — G. Abbey. 



FRUIT-TREE PLANTING. 



What should I plant ? When should I plant ? How should 

 I plant ? Here are three plain questions to which it is highly 

 important that equally plain answers should be given. It is 

 by no means an easy matter to do this so as to meet the re- 

 quirements of every class. Some wish for novelties, others 

 for very early or late kinds ; peculiarities of flavour and of 

 form also find numerous advocates. Then, too, an elaborate 

 explanation of the details of planting is apt to mislead and 

 puzzle the uninitiated, frequently causing considerable waste 

 of time, labour, and capital. The answers, therefore, must be 

 simple, clear, and so comprehensive as to afford some hints 

 for the guidance of all. Let us take the questions as they 

 stand. 



What should I plant V 



1. For the supply of a large establishment. Enough of all 

 kinds that are of a free vigorous growth, robust hardy constitu- 

 tion, and veiy prolific, including sorts which range from the 

 earliest to the latest, so as to afford an abundant supply 

 throughout the season. If there are two varieties with fruit 

 bearing a close resemblance, do not hastily discard either of 

 them ; they are quite certain to differ somewhat in some essential 

 point, apparently so trifling as to receive very little attention 

 till some peculiarities of weather affect them for good or evil. 

 To these such other varieties should be added as produce fruit 

 of high excellence under favourable conditions, but which are 

 so liable to sufl'er from unkindly seasons as to be unsuitable 

 for gardens when to economise space is an object — delicate 

 kinds, in fact, requiring more than ordinary cultural skill and 

 care in their management. 



2. For gardens of medium size. There must be no speculative 

 work here. Every tree must be of some well-tried kind of sterling 

 merit, and must form a link in that successive seasonable 

 supply which it is so desirable to maintain without any failure. 



'A. For a small garden. A few very select and choice varieties 

 coming to perfection in mid-season rather than very late or 

 early, so as to ensure an annual supply so far as may be. 



When should I plant ? As soon as possible alter the trees 

 have shed their leaves for choice, and at any time during 

 November and the two following months. Planting may also 

 be done in February and March, but a season's growth is then 

 endangered, and often lost — a serious matter in fruit-culture, 

 and it is only upon an emergency that such late planting 

 should be practised. November is undoubtedly the best 

 month of the twelve for tree-planting ; all growth has then 

 ceased, the wood is matured, and the entire system is at rest. 

 Much anxiety and watching is also avoided by planting early. 

 Fine open weather and soil in a suitable condition should be 

 made the most of. A single opportunity neglected now may 

 lead to failure. Stern winter, with its stormy alternations and 

 frost and snow, is approaching us ; we cannot plant in sodden 

 soil, and may have to wait till the sap is in motion and the 

 pressure of spring work is upon us, and then the planting will 

 be done with a rush, and the entire affair prove unsatisfactory. 



How should I plant ? Make the holes deep and wide enough 

 for every root to be spread out without any twisting or cramp- 

 ing ; cut off bruised roots and the ragged ends of any that are 

 broken ; pack the soil gently yet firmly among the roots, tread- 

 ing the surface well after all is covered, but avoid hard stamp- 

 ing, bruises from tools, or any similar rough practices. Careless 

 men may often be seen trying to force a badly planted tree into 

 an erect position by pushing and stamping, to its great risk 

 and frequent damage. Do not bury the stems; many a valu- 

 able tree is lost through deep planting; 4 inches of soil is an 

 ample covering for the roots. As a rule, the base of a newly 

 planted tree should always be slightly elevated above the 

 common level ; some settlement always follows the planting, 

 however closely the soil may have been pressed. 



