62 Journal of Agricultxire, Victoria. [10 Jan., 1917. 



one. The bark at the point where the cuts meet should be raised, and 

 the bud inserted between the bark and the wood of the stock. The bud 

 should be gently pressed down into position, and it should then be bound 

 with soft twine, string, or raffia. If the bud be too long for the cut, 

 the top may be cut off level with a horizontal cut. With practice, it 

 will soon become possible to take the buds that they will need neither 

 cutting nor trimming. 



After two or three weeks the buds may be examined to see if they 

 have " taken," that is, if the bud has united thoroughly to the stock. 

 When that occurs, the tie may be cut. If a growth be desired at once, 

 all wood above the bud may be cut off some short distance above the 

 bud, so as to prevent any bark splitting; and consequent loss of the bud, 

 and so as tO' throw the bud out at a fair angle. Ultimately this should 

 be properly trimmed. 



If desired, the bud may be left dormant throughout the autumn and 

 winter till spring. In this case, the branch is not cut off, but is left 

 on till the usual winter pruning. 



SuMMEB Pruning. 



The profuse rains of November and December have caused a vigorous 

 growth in the fruit trees. In order to more economically utilize this 

 abundant growth, it should be now summer pruned, particularly on the 

 apple and pear trees. Care should be observed that as much of the 

 leafage as possible is retained on the tree. Unduly long laterals of 

 fruiting trees may be shortened back, always cutting to a leaf. Un- 

 necessary terminal leader growths, of which there are sometimes three 

 or four, all strong growing, may be reduced to one, retaining this one 

 as a leader. In no case should this growth be cut or interfered with in 

 any way. 



Tlie results of these cuts will be to divert the sap which was flowing 

 into growths that would subsequently be pruned, into more profitable 

 channels, so that weak buds and growths may be strengthened, and in- 

 duced into fruit bearing. 



Vegetable Garden. 



The work in this section is much the same as in the flower garden. 

 Good mulching and regular soil stirring will be the work for the month. 

 As soon as any bed is cleared of vegetables, it should be manured and 

 well dug over in preparation for the next crop. Deep digging is always 

 desirable in vegetable growing. If any pest, such as aphis, or cater- 

 pillars, or tomato weevil, have been present, it would be advisable to 

 burn all the crop refuse, or to destroy any insects that remain, and to 

 give the plot a dressing of gypsum, or of Cliffs manurial insecticide. 



Keep the tomatoes well watered and manured, pinching out surplus 

 and strong grown laterals. In early districts the onion crop will be 

 ripening. In late districts, or with late crops, the ripening may be 

 hastened by breaking down the top. An autumn crop of potatoes may 

 be planted. Cabbage, cauliflower, lettuce, and celery plants may be 

 planted out. 



Flower Garden. 



January should be a busy month in the garden. It may be necessary 

 to water constantly and frequently, and after every watering the sur- 

 face should be well loosened, and stirred with the hoe to keep it moist 



