n June, 1917.] Orchard and Garden Notes. 383 



sorrel is plentiful, the garden should be given a heavy dressing of fresh 

 lime, giving a fair dusting all over the surface. Lime should not be used 

 in conjunction with leaves, garden dehris, leaf-mould, stable manure, or 

 any other organic matter used for humus. These should be first disposed 

 of by digging vfell into the soil ; then shortly afterwards a top dressing 

 of lime may be given. Should no humic material be used, the lime may 

 be dug in with the autumn digging. 



In cleaning up gardens, all light litter and foliage should be either 

 dug in, or, better still, it should be placed in an out-of-the-way corner 

 to form a compost heap. Leaf-mould, well rotted, is especially useful in 

 any garden, and where such plants as Azaleas, Rhododendrons, Liliums, 

 &c., are grown, or for pot plant work it is exceedingly valuable. In 

 forming the compost heap, no medium whatever should be added lo help 

 the rotting down of the leaves unless it be a little sand. Any chemical 

 added will render the mould unsuitable for its special objects. 



Any hardy annuals may be planted out, such as stocks, pansies, wall- 

 flowers, &c., and cuttings of roses and hardwood shrubs may also be 

 planted. In planting out cuttings it is very important that all the eyes 

 should be removed from the part of'the cutting which is to be below the 

 ground. If this be not done, there will always be the subsequent danger 

 qf the plant suckering. 



Roses and any summer and autumn flowering shrubs that have finished 

 flowering may be pruned. If the spring flowering shrubs have not pre- 

 viously been pruned, they should be allowed to remain until after the 

 next flowering season. This especially applies to such plants as Spireas, . 

 Philadelphus (Mock Orange), Deutzia, Prunus Mume, and other early 

 flowering shrubs. To prune these now would mean the certain loss of a 

 great proportion of their flowers. 



In pruning, the shrubs may be well thinned out, especially removing 

 any weak upright or old flowering growths; keep the shrub always at an 

 outward growth, inclining to a broad bushy type, instead of to an upright 

 habit. By this means, the lower regions will always be furnished with, 

 good growth. Shrubs and trees of all descriptions should never be 

 allowed to become too crowded; they require to be opened, so as to allow 

 sunlight and air into the interior, where it is most needed. This is one 

 means by which this class of plants may be kept healthv and free from 

 disease. Very few shrubs resent pruning, and the majority of them, 

 including Australian shrubs, such as Acacias, are very amenable to the 

 pruning knife. 



In rose pruning, the rule is that strong growing plants require less 

 severe cutting than the weak growing ones. As roses alwavs flower on 

 new wood, it is essential that to have good blooms the bushes must be 

 pruned regularly. All weak growths, exhausted and worn out wood must 

 be removed, retaining only vigorous growths. It is generally advisable 

 to always prune to four or five eyes or buds, so as to have subsequent 

 strong growths, always pruning into the previous season's wood. Spindly 

 growths, especially in the centres of the bushes, should be removed, the 

 plants being trained with an open and angular habit. 



To prevent loss by decay, it will be advisable to lift and store such 

 herbaceous plants as delpliiniums, perennial phlox, rudbeckias, &c., also 

 dahlias, tubers, chrysanthemums, cannas, and perennial sunflowers and 

 asters. Failing the possibility of doing this, they should be lifted gently 

 with a fork, so as to allow of a slight air space under the crown. 



