6 SILK CULTURE. 



and pointed at both ends. This is generally used as a rule among growers. 

 The outer lining of the cocoon is a loose silk spun by the worm when pre- 

 paring for its final work. It is called flock, or floss, and sells with the 

 pierced cocoons and other waste silk. This cannot be reeled, but is carded 

 and spun by the manufacturers. The cocoons will run all the way from 

 2CO to 600 yards. The better the worms are fed and the more care there 

 is taken of them, the heavier and finer the cocoons will be, and the fewer it 

 will take of them to produce a pound of silk. 



THE MOTH. 



The " Moth," which does not eat and which is said to have no jaws, is 

 provided with a liquid secretion with which it moistens the end of the 

 cocoon and dissolves the gum by which the worm fastens its threads of silk 

 together. It then slowly forces its way out, pushing the threads aside ; but 

 breaking so many of them as to render the cocoons from which they escape 

 useless for reeling. These are called " pierced cocoons." 



FEEDING AND RAISING 



The room in which the worms are to be raised must be arranged so as 

 to allow it to be thoroughly and easily ventilated, and warmed if necessary 

 — one facing the northeast is best. If buildings are erected expressly for 

 the purpose, they must combine all these. If only a small number of worms 

 are to be raised, a few trays placed on tables will be all that will be required. 

 If, however, large numbers are reared, frames and trays must be provided 

 — the wood, in all cases, to be well seasoned. Make upright frames across 

 the room, to hold the number of trays to be used to accommodate the worms 

 raised. The worms must not be huddled too closely together, as they need 

 plenty of room for feeding and ventilation. If too many are kept together 

 in the trays, they cannot feed properly — it is more difficult to change them — 

 and it also tends to create disease among them. The trays are formed of 

 thin frames like laths, set edgeways — say 16 inches by 24 inches (this will 

 be a good size for handling easily). Drive tacks half way in, on the under 

 side of the frames, all round, about half an inch apart. Then take good 

 strong twine, not too thick, run it from tack to tack lengthways of the frame 

 stretching it tightly — then crossways, interlapping it so as to make a firm 

 support for the musquito-netting. leaves and worms. After stretching the 

 twine on the frame, drive the tacks in to the heads and the tray is com- 

 plete. A tray of this size will hold and feed 1000 worms at ist and 2d age, 

 alter which time they must be separated as they grow larger, placing them 

 on other trays. Have musquito-netting (white) cut so as to nearly fit the 

 trays — providing enough to have changesevery day which must be attended 

 to, as cleanliness is actually necessary for the health of the worms. Change 

 them early in the morning — and hang the nettings used over night, up to 

 air. When the worm is first hatched, tarleton is used in place of netting, 



