A FORTNIGHT AT GAVARNIE. 159 



latter locality. Our way was through the Val d'Ossoue ; we had seen 

 on a guide post that it took eight hours from Gavarnie to Cauterets, 

 and without reference to our guide books we determined to do as much 

 collecting en route as possible, and to stay one night if not two at the 

 Chalet Hotel, by the Lac de Gaube. We went happily along, one of 

 my early catches being a magnificent example of an entirely black 

 Coscina crihnim var. rippertii, only with black hind- as well as fore- 

 wings. I believe this has been named var. melanoptera, but I cannot 

 turn up the reference. Another fine capture was a lovely female E. 

 sti/fine, smoky- brown, with the bands wherein are the ocellations of a 

 very pale straw colour suffused with smoky-grey, the underside being 

 sooty- grey with bands of the same colour, as above in the forewings. 

 Several specimens of Carcharodits lavather<r fell to my lot, and more 

 very fine D. cnnniia. I took also this day two additional Lycaenids, 

 viz., one specimen of Luweia dorills, and three of Chnjfsoplianus hipjio- 

 tho'e. TJii/welicns actann occurred sparingly and the usual blues, and I 

 captured a couple of HeUothh peltif/era. As the time wore away it 

 became evident that not only should we not arrive at the Lac de 

 Gaube that night, but that it would be all we should do to reach the 

 Refuge d'Ossoue before dark, so we had to push on, passing meadows 

 that I longed to spend an hour in, until at last the Kefuge was sighted 

 between half-past eight and nuie, and then we learnt from the guide 

 that it was a good five hours' walk to that spot and another six to 

 Cauterets. It was along this route that we came across one of the 

 most lovely scenes I have ever witnessed. As we rounded one of the 

 mountain sides, suddenly we had laid open just in front of us on our 

 right, the whole side of two mountains closely carpeted with most 

 magnificent examples of the large purple iris, a perfect blaze of 

 intensest colour in the brilliant sunlight. There must have been 

 acres and acres one mass of colour — we could but stand and gaze, lost 

 in wonder and admiration. The whole setting was perfect, words fail 

 to express one's thoughts, the two expressions that rose to our lips 

 were, " marvellous," " glorious " — certainly that sight will ever live 

 in my memory. We were very thankful for the hospitality of the 

 Refuge of the French Alpine Club, and were up at four o'clock in the 

 morning in time to see another view of great beauty — shall I call it 

 the " Passing of the Night?" The sky was just changing from the 

 darkness of night to that wonderful steely-blue that is only to be seen 

 high up in the mountains. We were then 8,900 feet high, the stars 

 were still visible, the silence was to be felt, and a sort of adoration 

 came over one as gradually the dark blue softened, and yet more 

 softened into that indescribable colour that occurs just before dawn. 

 Then the sun lit up first one peak then another, gently creeping 

 throughout the whole circle as the orange tinge warmed up, first this 

 one and then its neighbour. Gradually this hue changed into palest 

 yellow, until at last the sun showed himself in his strength, and life 

 was renewed for another day. Having partaken of our iwtit dejeuner 

 we passed on our way up to the Col de Vignemale, and then down 

 over the snow, guided by the footsteps of someone who had recently 

 come up from that side — probably two French climbers who had 

 passed the night at the Refuge as we had done. The snow was in 

 greater abundance than usual, and it was at least an hour to two 

 hours before we left it quite behind us. As we passed downwards an 



