^,^"^'] Portuguese East Africa. 177 



The conditions of work and travel, being off the beaten track 

 of ordinary travellers, are very different from those of 

 bush-life in Austraha, so that there is much of interest to 

 relate with regard to the experiences incidental to the organizing 

 and carrying out of exploration in these parts. Everything 

 has to be carried on the heads of natives, for, after leaving the 

 railway line which leads from Beira to Rhodesia, there are no 

 roads for wheeled vehicles, and the presence of belts of country 

 infested with tsetse fly prevents the use of horses or oxen for 

 extended trekking. 



The party numbered only two white men ; but, as a supply 

 of food and equipment for at least six months had to be taken, 

 and frequently large supplies of food carried also for the 

 porters, the number of natives in the caravan sometimes 

 amounted to as many as 150. There are many disadvantages 

 attached to having such a large retinue. Transport and food 

 problems and other accompanying worries occupy much 

 attention and thought ; but, on the other hand, there is a great 

 advantage in having a large supply of labour for track and 

 line clearing, the sinking of test holes, the carrying of tools 

 and instruments, and other work associated with exploration 

 in rough or bush-covered country. 



The foreign language and customs have to be reckoned with 

 by travellers new to these parts. Many of the Portuguese 

 officials speak Enghsh, but in the back country the intercourse 

 with white persons is very occasional. The knowledge of a 

 native language is, however, of more importance and help. 

 The principal native languages are Sena and Shangan ; but, 

 as most of the natives have been across the frontier into 

 Rhodesia or the Transvaal, to work in the mines, they generally 

 understand Kaffir, which is easy to pick up, and this is, in fact, 

 almost a necessary attainment for the white traveller. It is 

 impossible to do entirely without an interpreter, but, even at 

 the best, this method of conversing is slow, and frequently 

 trying and unsatisfactory. 



The climate shows a wide range — from the hot coastal low- 

 lands to the cooler uplands and frontier heights, where the 

 altitude rises to over 6,000 feet in places. Malaria is present, 

 as it is in most parts of tropical Africa, but nevertheless many 

 districts are tolerably healthy, and during the dry season, for 

 at least six months, the climate is often very agreeable, 

 especially in the highlands. 



The greater ]'»art of the country is covered with forest, which 

 is very dense in some of the moister parts, but in general is of 

 an open character. Rank grass, from 10 to 12 feet high — the 

 growth of a few months after the rains — is a striking feature, 

 and is often a great hindrance to exploration. 



The country, on the whole, is well watered by numerous 



