sufficient ground to camp on without climbing one of the root- 

 ladders that form the communication between the native 

 villages and the river. There are occasional rapids here, but 

 the general course of the stream is quiet, in some places the 

 current being quite imperceptible on account of the great 

 depth of the water. Gradually the country becomes more 

 open, and the walls of basalt are replaced by fertile banks. 

 About 20 miles from the mouth the last rapid occurs, whence 

 the river is navigable for small craft, and here the traveller 

 finds the settlement of Wanganui in the province of Wellington, 

 the town being about four miles from the bar. An attempt 

 was formerly made to call the place Petre, but the more 

 euphomious one of Wanganui has become the one by which it 

 is known. 



Ducks and teal abound on the upper Wanganui, amongst 

 which a duck with a spoon bill is occasionally found. It is a 

 shy and rather rare bird. 



The river Wanganui is admirably adapted for salmon. These 

 fish would have a run of 150 to 170 miles to their upper 

 spawning-beds, the deep pools affording ample shelter on 

 their way. Eels, a kind of small mullet, and a freshwater 

 crayfish are at present the only fish in this fine stream. 



Returning now to the centre of the island, we will take a 

 northerly course. The Waikato river rises at the foot of 

 Eua-pehu and flows into the south of lake Taupo, which is 

 some 30 miles long by 25 broad and is surrounded by a fine, 

 park-like country. Leaving the north end of Taupo the 

 Waikato meanders through rugged, difficult ground, and, 

 tumbling over a couple of cataracts, becomes navigable for 

 steamers at Maungatautari, Thirty miles further down the 

 rapid stream absorbs the quiet Waipa, and the joint river, 

 still called the Waikato, flows onward swiftly in a wide channel 

 over a sandy bottom, and is so shallow as to be almost 

 unnavigable for boats or canoes in certain seasons. The 

 Waikato empties itself on the West Coast and is accessible to 

 craft of moderate size in fine weather. A township) has been 

 recently laid out within the heads. 



The shores of Taupo and of the other lesser lakes to the 

 North are of it are peopled by fine tribes of Maories, mostly 

 heathens. The chief, Te Heu Heu, dismissed a missionary 

 from his dominions on the ground that he interfered with his 

 authority, and he consistently refused to be called by the 

 English name Matene (Martin), by which he was known in the 

 settlements. Very few of the natives in this district can speak 

 a word of English, notwithstanding which their agriculture is 

 extensive and well carried on. The Waikatos have been more 

 in contact with the Europeans. As long ago as 1852 a water- 



