IN JAVA. 105 



CHAPTER III. 



SOJOURN AT PENGELENGAN, IN THE rEEANGER REGENCIES. 



Leave Buitenzorg for the Preanger Eegencies— Journey to Bandong in a 

 Post-cart— Bandong— Thence to Pengelengan— Visit to tlie famous 

 Cinchona Gardens of the Government— Piant-Ufe in the surrounding 

 mountains— The Upas tree— Crater flora— Land -sUps and the power 

 of rain— Interesting birds— The Badger-headed Mydaus— The Banteng, 

 or wild cattle— Wild dogs— Leave Pengelengan for Batavia. 



After a few clays of preparation for my new tour spent in 

 Buitenzorg, I sent off my baggage to the Preanger in the care 

 of a string of coolies, and secured for myself a seat at the mode- 

 rate rate of twenty cents per mile in the mail-cart which every 

 evening leaves Buitenzorg for Bandong. The mail-cart was 

 not the most luxurious, but it was the cheapest and certainly the 

 most expeditious way of getting over the ground. This cart was 

 a rough edition of our own raail-gig-simply a box on wheels— 

 whose cushionless and slippery top formed a most uncomfort- 

 able seat, yet I would not have missed the ride for a good deal. 

 We started with a couple of stout ponies yoked tandem -wise, 

 and in place of side lamps our way was lighted by an immense 

 torch made of splints of bamboo some seven feet long tied 

 together, which a youth, who straddle-wise clung on behind, 



held to the wind to keep it ablaze. 



Our road lay over the 3[egamendoeng Pass, 4^03 feet above 

 the sea. At first the gradient was not very steep, and wo 

 proceeded at a fine pace. Towards every post-station, tve 

 miles apart all along the road, our progress was heralded by 

 loud shouts, and by the louder shot-like whip-crackmgs that 

 these drivers are famed for. At each station a halt of three or 

 four minutes sufficed to put in the fresh horses standing ready 

 for us, ont blazed a fresh flaming torch, and our plunging and 

 kicking steeds were off again, at a gallop which by voice and 

 whip was not allowed to flag until we pulled up under the 



