MY FIRST VISIT TO THE ENGADINE. 11 



from GUI' different altitude we commanded quite a different 

 view from that we had had whilst ascending the valley ; it 

 w^as when we had proceeded about half the distance w^hicli 

 we had to traverse that the view became of the finest. 

 The upper part of the valley was still in sight, and along 

 the main valley leading to the Bernina Pass, the two lakes, 

 the black lake which feeds the Danube, and the white lake 

 which feeds the Po, were distinctly perceptible, and on the 

 hill above the latter was the Cambrena glacier, the water 

 from which, of the usual milky-white colour of glacier streams, 

 give its peculiar colour to the Avhite lake. The form of the 

 Val da Fain, not so very unlike a sickle, the steep declivities 

 on each side, the roar of the mountain stream, which when 

 the eyes were closed you could almost fancy was the roaring 

 of the sea, the two different coloured lakes, the snowy peaks 

 of the Bernina range, the cloudless deep blue sky, the endless 

 variety of the flowers and insects around me, all formed such 

 a scene of enchantment as will long remain deeply engraved 

 upon my memory. I fear that in such a scene I felt dread- 

 fully lazy and little inclined for work, yet the sight of a bush 

 of Cotoneaster i-eminded me of Oi^nix Pfajffenzelleri, though 

 I sought in vain for any symptoms of the larva of that 

 species. 



The descent from the elevation we had attained brought 

 us to some broken and stony ground, but in time we safely 

 reached the valley, and Professor Hering and I sat down on 

 a grassy slope awaiting those who were behind us. After a 

 little time I discovered that the ground on wdiicli we were 

 sitting had been only a few wrecks earlier a perfect blaze of one 

 of the Alpine primroses, (not Primula farinosa, but more like 

 Priynula scotica). The sight of this and the number of 

 Anemone heads in full seed satisfied me that earlier in the 

 season the flowers in that valley must still look surpassingly 



