THE OYSTER-INDUSTRY. 123 



most of them were eaten raw. A "stew" was an expensive Inxnry then, and the fancy styles of cooking in vogue 

 now hardly heard of. Most of the venders were colored men ; and the only oyster eatinghonses, little cellars nnder 

 the sidewalk, stalls in the markets— particularly the old Catherine market— or a little movable stand on a wharf. 



A PICTUKE BY Washington Irving. — Washington Irving, in his Knkl<erhocl;er''s Eistory, describing a scene 

 in New York harbor in 1804, says that in the universal repose of the afternoon "the fleet of canoes at anchor 

 between Gibbet island and Communipaw slumbered on their rakes, and siifl'ered the innocent oysters to lie for a 

 while unmolested in the soft mud of their native banks". 



New York market in 1S2.j-'30 and 1845.— Even as late as 1825-'30 the whole city supplied only custom 

 enough for one wholesale establishment, according to the information kindly given me by Mr. Thomas DeVoe, whose 

 historical knowledge in respect to New York city is widely known. Benjamin Story at that time kept a provision 

 store at No. G4 Barclay street, and in the fall used to stow away in his cellar from two to five hundred bushels of 

 oysters, which he would sell during the winter to the few eating-stands in Washington market or to grocers. Mr. 

 DeVoe told me that the report at that time was, that Story fed his stock and so kept them alive; but how often, or 

 with what pabulum, he could not say. Prices at that time, DeVoe remembered, were about two shillings and 

 sixpence to three shillings (30 to 37 cents) a bushel on the boats which came to the city wharves; but Story sold 

 his at from $1 to $1 25 a hundred in bad weather, when boats could not bring any. 



In Watson's Annals, 1845, I flud the following paragraph : 



Mr. Brower » » * renieinbere<l well when abmidauce of the largest Blue Point oysters could bo bought opened to your hand 

 for 2«. a hundred, such as would now [184G] briug three or four dollars. 



New York markets in 1853.— In the spring of 1853 there appeared in the New Torlc Herald a series of 

 articles on this trade in the metropolis, which bore the impress of accuracy to a greater degree than is usual in such 

 communications. It asserted that then the oyster-trade might be called only thirty years old, yet that there were 

 a thousand vessels, of from 45 to 200 tons, engaged in winter in supplying the dealers in Oliver slip and other 

 depots with Virginia oysters. The value of these vessels, on an average, was $3,000 each. This statement must, 

 of course, have included all bringing southern oysters to any portion of New York bay, and, at best, seems 

 exaggerated. "The crew," continues the account of these vessels, "is composed generally of four hands and the 

 cook, and the monthly wages given to each person varies from .$12 to $30 * * *. Unlike the fishermen of 

 Fulton market, they do not own shares in the boats upon which they are employed." 



The account continues : 



The amount received for Virginia oysters, sold by the dealers in Oliver slip alone, is estimated at $250,000 a year. This, however, is 

 not more than one-third of the quantity disposed of in the vicinity of Catherine market ; for the space in the slip is so limited that the 

 Ijusiuess of the dealers is greatly retarded and cramped. In consequence of this the principal supply is furnished direct from the boats to 

 the retail -dealers throughout the city. About |300,000 worth of all kinds of Virginia oysters are sold by the boats, which, added to the 

 sales of the dealers, make a total of three-quarters of a million of dollars. This is an immense amount of money, but it is not more than 

 one-eighth part of the value of all the oysters sold during the year in this city.* 



During the mouths of December, January, February, and March about .§500,000 worth are sold from the boats at Coenties slip. There 

 are no scows or oyster-stands at this place, on account of the transient character of the trade there, and the dealers are consequently obliged 

 to sell them off the boats. There are some days when from 20 to 30 vessels are in dock together, and » * * the wharf is thronged with 

 wagons waiting to receive their loads, while the hands on the boats are straining every nerve to supply the incessant demands of 

 customers. The business of the day couimences about six o'clock in the morning, and continues until four in the afternoon. 



Of East river oysters alone about §500,000 worth is sold during the year in Oliver slip. The supply comes from Bridgeport, Norwalk, 

 Greenwich, Stamford, Darien, Sawpits, City island, and a few other places along the western shore : and from Northport, Oyster li.ay, 

 Lloyd's harbor, Huntingdon, Cold Spring, and Cow bay on the southern side. The largest proportion come from City island, where there 

 are extensive artificial and natural beds, which furnish some of the best oysters obtained in the East river. 



The reporter then mentions that of the 100 boats employed in carrying East river oysters to Oliver slip in 

 1853, 25 belonged to City island, where 100 families were supported by this industry. "The whole amount of 

 l)roperty invested in the oyster-trade with this island," he states, "including the boats of theoystermen and of the 

 dealers, the value of the beds, etc., is estimated at $1,000,000. And this is not more than one-third of the whole 

 amount invested in the entire trade of the East river." 



The same writer mentioned that the annual sales of a single dealer in East river stock amounted in 1852 to 

 $100,000; and complained that the conveniences ottered by the city to the business at Oliver slip was very 

 inadequate, although a fee of $75 a year was paid as scow- wharfage. He enumerated nine scows there then, valued 

 at about $4,000, total. These scows were 30 by 12 feet in dimensions, and would hold from 1,100 to 1,500 bushels 

 each. Out of these scows, ho says, is sold yearly about $500,000 worth of oysters, exclusive of the amount bought 

 from boats direct, which dealers estimate at $1,000,000. "This estimate is derived from a calculation of the 

 number of boats arriving during each year, and their capacity." 



At Washiugton market, according to the same chronicle, there were at this time twelve scows, having a total 

 value of about $15,000. They had not even the scanty wharf accommodations vouchsafed at Oliver slip, but lay 

 exposed so that they were knocked about by every high wind with great force, and damage was done which now 



'Here, again, I should say the estimate was large— two or three times too high, at least. — E. I. 



