126 THE FISHERIES OF THE UNITED STATES. 



Demand and sxjpply, past and present. — The history of the great city's progress in arailing itself of 

 this important article of food has thus been sketched. From being the common food of the poor man, so plenteous 

 and vulgar that no feast ever saw its name upon the menu, the oyster became only a luxury for the well-to-do, 

 and the prime feature of holiday banquets. Eecovering from the scarcity which had brought this change about, by 

 means of the artificial cultivation of immense quantities, oysters a second time have become abundant as an article 

 of food, enjoyed alike by rich and poor. Those who live in the interior or abroad can hardly appreciate how 

 extensive is the demand and supply in the coast cities. "Oysters pickled, stewed, baked, roasted, fried, and 

 scalloped; oysters made into soups, patties, and puddings; oysters with condiments and without condiments; 

 oysters for breakfast, dinner, and supper; oysters without stint or limit, fresh as the pure air, and almost as 

 abundant, are daily offered to the palates of the Manhattanese, and appreciated with aU the gratitude which such a 

 bounty of nature ought to inspire." 



41. THE OYSTEE-TEADE OF NEW YORK IN 1880. 



Location of the oyster-business. — The oyster-business of the city of New York, as at present conducted, 

 is confined almost exclusively to two localities, the trades of which are to a certain extent distinct. One of these 

 centers is at the foot of Broome street, East river, and the other at the foot of West Tenth street. North liver, 

 nearly opposite. The method of business at each is substantially the same, the difference consisting in the character 

 of the oysters handled. In addition to this, a few firms are engaged at wholesale in Fulton market, and three firms 

 near Washington market imi)ort oysters, opened, from the south. This includes all of the original wholesale and 

 shipping business in the city — and the statistics of it, though represemted by large figures, and though it took 

 much time to obtain them, are not comijlicated. 



Scows AND barges. — All of the dealers on the East and North rivers occupy floating places of business 

 known as "scows", "oyster-boats", or "barges", being flat-bottomed boats, made with unusual strength and of the 

 most durable materials, and which closely resemble the conventional "Noah's Ark" of the toy-shops, and the Sunday 

 school ijicture-books, except that they have flat roofs. 



The size of these scows varies, but fair dimensions are these : 



Feet. Feet. 



Length of hull 75 Height of first story or deck 11 



Width 24 Height of attic 9 



Depth of hold 6 



The deep hold, well-floored, serves as a cellar, cool in summer and warm in winter; oysters will never freeze 

 there when the. hatches are closed. Over the whole craft, flush with the outside, is built a house, two stories in 

 height, as I have indicated. The floor of the first story is the deck of the scow. This is the general business 

 apartment, and gives room for storage, the opening of oysters, and transaction of business. Above is a loft where 

 are stored barrels, baskets, and machinery. In the rear, usually — sometimes in the front end — is fitted up an 

 ofiice. The daily capacity of such a barge is about 700 bushels. 



These scows are securely moored, side by side, to the wharf, or rather to the water-wall of the city, and are 

 reached by broad swinging platforms, which allow them to rise and fall with the tide. At the rear end, therefore, 

 they can always be closely approached by the sloops and boats which bring to their owners their stock. Such a 

 barge is worth from $1,500 to $4,000, and, with an annual overhauling and caulking, will last as long as a man is 

 likely to need it. There are 30 of these barges, representing at present, a value of $75,000. To these barges 

 at the foot of Broome street come the oysters from East river and Long Island beds ; also somewhat from Staten 

 Island and Virginia, but to a small extent compared with the west-side business in these two classes. 



Character of the trade. Three sorts of trade are carried on, as follows: 1. Some dealers are also planters 

 and sell their own oysters; 2. Dealers buy from planters and sell; 3. Dealers sell on commission. 



The planting of oysters by the New York dealers is almost wholly by partnership methods, and the statistics of 

 the amounts they raise are credited to the totals at the poiiit where the oysters are produced. New York furnishes 

 a large part of the capital which operates the beds in all parts of the neighborhood, from Kej7»ort, New Jersey, to 

 Norwalk, Connecticut. It is very rare, however, that this planting is done in the capitalist's name, and it would be 

 idle, and the cause of the greatest confusion, to try to ascertain to just what extent the score of oystermen in New 

 York produced native oysters, apart from the share which country capital had in it. The arrangement between 

 the New York man of money and his rural partner is usually this: The former iurnishes the needed money, the 

 latter does all the labor, and the cost of taking up and the profits are equally divided. The reason why the 

 capitalist's name does not appear, which would redound to his credit as an extensive operator, is, that the beds 

 are usually in Connecticut or in New Jersey, while he is a citizen of New York, and in both those states the 

 law forbids a non-inhabitant to plant oysters. The same law holds even in res])ect to towns, so that a man must 

 live immediately at his beds if he intends to work them himself. But, of course, no legislation can forbid partnership 

 or borrowing money, or hiring out one's services, even if the other party concerned be not a citizen of the state or 

 township. 



