198 THE FISHERIES OF THE UNITED STATES. 



The oyster-trade of New Orleans. — At the southern metropolis, New Orleans, centers the most extensive 

 oyster-trade of the Gulf of Mexico, and some of the stock sold in that city is of very higli quality. There is no locality 

 in the whole TJuited States where the business presents so many picturesque features, and the oyster-landing at the 

 levee is one of the most spirited and entertaining sights of the many half foreign pictures to be got in that polyglot city. 

 My report upon the oyster-business here is made np of information communicated to me by Mr. Silas Stearns, 

 of the Census Office, by Mr. F. F. Ainsworth, and out of my own investigations ; but the necessity for my early 

 departure for duties in Washington, prevented my staying as long in Louisiana, or working as thoroughly in that 

 field, as I wished to do. 



Sources op supply. — The New Orleans market is supplied with oysters from an extent of coast comprising 

 the whole water-front of both Mississippi and Louisiana, and embracing numerous tonging-grouuds. The great 

 majority are taken from the natural and luxurious growth of the " reefs ", but the transplanting and consequent 

 improvement of oysters is being more and more engaged in. The delta of the Mississippi river forms a i)artition 

 between the two classes of oysters and oyster-localities tributary to New Orleans — a distinction which is perpetuated 

 in the city markets. The first of these divisions to be considered, is that which lies eastward of the delta, extending 

 from Lake Borgne, Point a la Hache, and the Chandaleur islands to Pascagoula and the end of Mississippi sound. 

 Though the Chandaleur islands, and some other points, produce an oyster of good reputation, the general quality 

 and size of the stock from this eastward portion is inferior to that from the western district. They are used for 

 cooking chiefly, and it is this stock which is being bought by the canning companies lately started in the city. The 

 best grounds seem to be the Chandaleur islands. Bayou Muscle, Bayou Boulfen near Mobile, and the shell-bank 

 outside of Biloxi. " The Bayou ]\Iuscle oyster is peculiar. It is large, very black, and the shells are covered with hair 

 and barnacles. The Boulfens are round, rich, and fat, and sell very high." The Picayune stated that 30 boats came 

 to the city from Biloxi and along the sound, in the winter of 1879-80, but this seems to have understated the case, 

 for our careful inquiries registered oO boats of five tons and upward, and iiOO boats of less than five tons, as 

 trading along the eastern coast; many of these, however, are otherwise engaged during a portion of the year. The 

 boats are generally small, rarely having more than two men, aud will be more fully described hereafter. 



Turning to the district west of the delta, we find that oysters are x)rocured from all the marshes and bayous, 

 nearly as far as Galveston, Texas. The Picayune, in an article diuiug the winter 1878-'79, gives a fair account of 

 this source of supply, as follows : 



This portion of our state seems best suited to the propagation of the best, and Bayou Chalons, Four Bayous, and Fontenclle are linowu 

 only for their oysters. Yesterday a representative of the Picaijane, in order to place bafore its readers something more definite than the 

 confused ideas generally prevailing about our oysters, visited a number of veterans in the trade. Even among them there is still some 

 confusion regarding the merits of certain oysters, but what was agreed upon by all was taken as the basis of what we give. 



There, are engaged in the business of supplying the city about 120 luggers, with a carrying capacity each of 75 to 100 barrels. From 

 Barataria, which comprises Bayou Cook, Chalons, and Four Bayous, there are eight, making at least one trip a week. From the Southwest 

 pass, Saliua, or the Salt Works below Fort Jackson, about 30 boats. From Timbalier, including Bayou Cj-\>rian, Foutcuelle, aud Lake 

 Pcliot, about 15. These vessels, aud the labor at the fishing banks, give employment to over 4,500 men. » » • There has been a general 

 impression here that Bayou Cook furnishes o:ir best oysters, but that little water course has loug since given up its natural supply, aud 

 those that are now received from there are only a few that are planted. 



Our best oysters come from Bayou Chalons, Four Bayous, Bayous Fonteuelle and Cyprian, and a small supply from Lake Pcliot. These 

 rank the highest and are called the lirst-class. The Bayou Chalons oyster is a large, long oyster, with a clean shell ; the Four 1 ayous are 

 middling, round, and firm ; the Bayous Fontenelle and Cyprian are small, hard, and round, and nmch preferred by couuoissours. The 

 Lake Peliot is a round oyster, very fat and salt, and on account of the hardness of its eye preibrred for frying. The second-class oysters 

 are the Timbaliers, where they are taken from the reef, not the one planted in the bay. They are in bunches and are long. In the same 

 class are the Salinas, or those taken at the Salt Works near Fort Jackson. They are what are called the " summer", aud by restaurateurs 

 the "kitchen" oyster. They cook well, but are not as rich iu flavor as those of the first-class. At the Southwest pass, proper, all the 

 bivalves are dead now, but near there, at East bay, they have a very good kind, with a light-colored shell and very white inside. Then 

 there are the Grand Lakes, from the vicinity of Fort Livingston, near Grand Terre. Although the supjjly is not very great there is always 

 a demand for them, as they have a peculiar flavor. 



The number of boats bringing and catching oysters in this region is counted at 20.5, of which 40 are of over 

 five tons burden. Their bu.siness is mainly done during the winter, and in summer they are largely engaged in 

 transporting fruit from the coast-plantations to the city, though some "lie up" for repairs. 



Louisiana oyster-boats. — These Louisiana oyster-vessels are all of one class and are known, from their 

 Mediterranean rig, as "luggers". They are in model much like the common light-draft American center-board 

 sloops, and vary in size from IG to 40 feet in length, the largest measuring about eight tons. Mr. Silas Stearns has 

 described them in detail, as follows : 



They are decked over forward and aft, and for a foot or eighteen inches on each side, leaving the central part of the boat open and 

 unobstructed for freight. Hatches art! usually jirovided to cover the undecked part from the weather. The oy.ster, fruit, and vegetable 

 boats of this class have a clear bold aud stow their freights from one to the other, in bulk, but the fish-carrying luggers have zinc-lined 

 ice-lioxes on each side of the center-board case, whi(^h are of the most simple aiTaugement, and are reached through tr.ap-door covers, 

 after the outside hatchl^s have been removed. When the boats are loaded the crew slccj) on deck, protected by an .awning. 



As to rig, they have one t.all mast, placed in about the same position as a sli)Oi)'s, a loug y.ard, and a huge, nearly Sfjuare, sail. When 

 in use the sail is hoisted aud stretched 1>y the yard, and the two lower corners are secured at bow and stern by sheets, which arc .arranged 

 with travelers to work across the deck. The yard is so slung to the mast that about one-third is on one side and two-thirds on the other, 

 aud the spread of canvas is so situated. 



