SULIVAN BAY on James Island in the Galapagos is memorable for its rugged 

 shoreline, suggestive of Dante's wildest dreams of an inferno. The fishing smack 

 Falcon is shown at anchor. Her Norwegian skipper, Christian Edvardsen 

 Estampa, at right below, has been a colorful figure in the Galapagos for many 

 years. With him is Arne Graffer, another Norwegian from Academy Bay, Inde- 

 fatigable Island. Graffer's sons, Arne and Erling, are shown at left. 



