MOTHER-OF-PEARL AND BLISTER PEARLS 



137 



utilize the cornelian shell, which has a background color similar to coral and comes 

 chiefly from Madagascar and Mozambique. Cornelian shells from Zanzibar, ac- 

 cording to the local trade, are of poorer quality. 



According to Hilliker (1948) conch shells must be of the heavier "male" type, 

 weighing from 400 to 600 or 700 g per shell, to be most suitable for cameo 

 carving. "Female" and "neuter" shells have a thinner "white" layer and are used 



Fig. 8-6. Four mother-of-pearl cameos. (From "The Cameo, Shell and Coral Industry 

 in Naples Province," by G. G. Hilliker, American Vice-Consul, Naples, Italy. ) 



only for novelty lamp shades and small cameos. In general each shell of the 

 "male" type yields first and second quality cameos, totaling about 65 mm, and 

 third and fourth quality, totaling about 40 mm. Only one first quality piece of 

 from 20 to 40 mm is usually available from the part called the "capo testa" (top 

 of the head) of the shell; while second quality is to be found in a slightly larger 

 area directly below, the "pancia" (stomach). 



Production. Not only is the entire shell and coral industiy in Naples and 

 vicinity on a handicraft basis, but cameo production is, in addition, carried on 

 largely at home. Whole families participate in carving from raw shells or pieces 

 supplied by jobbers. This arrangement is possible in cameo carving because the 

 raw shells do not have the intrinsic value of raw coral or tortoise shell. The cost 

 of the raw conch shells (landed in Naples) represents an average of only 20 to 

 30 per cent of the wholesale cost of finished cameos. It is estimated that about 

 2,000 adult workers in the Naples area are presently engaged in cameo carving, 

 or, including all workers irrespective of age, as many as 6000. Very few cameo 

 factories exist and the principal factory employs as many or more artisans who 

 work at home as those who work on the premises. 



The cameo trade is subject both to the unpredictable extremes of jewelry fashion 

 and to all the intricacies of foreign trade. Not only must the raw shells be 

 imported from abroad, but it is estimated that 90 per cent of the cameos produced 

 are exported directly. Most of the remainder are normally sold to foreign tourists 



