146 MARINE PRODUCTS OF COMMERCE 



founded by decree on June 23, 1878. Free instruction is given to both day and 

 night classes as to technical and artistic engraving on coral, lava, shells, tortoise 

 shell, ivory, hardwoods, metals, etc. All the necessary material is furnished without 

 charge, but remains the property of the institution. To graduates a good part of 

 their work in designing and decorating is given, as are also some clay models of 

 plastic designs and engravings. The entire course covers 4 years: In the first year 

 the pupil attends preparatory classes in designing; in the second year there is 

 more advanced instruction in designing, as well as an introduction to plastics or 

 engraving and inlaying; in the third year comes the first course of applied design 

 and the second course of plastics or engraving and inlaying; the fourth year is 

 devoted to finishing these difiFerent branches. 



Utilization in Jewelry 



As objects of personal adornment coral beads and other coral ornaments are 

 much more highly favored in the Orient than in the Occident. However, in some 

 parts of Italy, as well as in Poland and the territory of the former Austrian Em- 

 pire, coral jewelry is much fancied. In Turkey coral is not only used for jewelry, 

 but is inlaid in the decorated walls of rooms and employed freely for many ob- 

 jects, such as pipes, weapons, and the trappings of horses. In North Africa, with 

 the exception of Egypt, where it is not much esteemed, coral enjoys great popu- 

 larity; this is also the case in Arabia. The Persians esteem it highly and the same 

 is true of the Chinese and Japanese. In India and Tibet it ranks among the best 

 materials for jewelry. In India it is set in necklaces, garters, and amulets and 

 has a religious use as a gift to the dead as it is believed to keep evil spirits away. 

 It has been aptly remarked that a fondness for coral indicates a certain degree 

 of culture in a race. The attempts made by traders to substitute coral beads for 

 glass beads in bartering with savage or semicivilized peoples have not been suc- 

 cessful, the "untutored mind" and eye greatly preferring the sheen and sparkle of 

 the vitreous surface. 



Jewelry made from pure white Japanese coral has gradually become more 

 popular. White coral in which each bead has a small spot of pink is still appreci- 

 ated; the most delicate pink tint is also much admired. About 1920 deep red 

 Moro coral came into vogue; plaques of black onyx were set alternately with this 

 coral, thus offering an effective contrast. Earrings of pear-shaped coral and onyx 

 or coral rings hanging from chains of tiny diamonds also became fashionable. 



REFERENCES 



Anon., "Japan's Prewar Coral Industry," Natural Resources Section, General Head- 

 quarters Supreme Commander for the Allied Powers, Weekly Summary, No. 122, 

 10-13 (Feb. 8-14, 1948). 



Ferracciu, R., "The Royal School of Coral Engraving and Fine Decorative Arts of Torre 

 del Greco," Firenze, Italy, 1941. 



Hilliker, G. G., "The Cameo, Shell, and Coral Industry in Naples Province," Naples, 

 Italy, Unclassified Report No. 22 American Consulate General, Sept. 8, 1948. 



Tressler, D. K., "The Wealth of the Sea," New York, Appleton-Century-Crofts Inc., 1927. 



