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of the hole. This provides a Utile mound that, to those un- 

 accustomed to plant, greatly facilitates the proper spacing of the 

 roots. Do not set the plants too deeply. The "elbow" or point 

 of union between stock and scion should be about one inch below 

 the surface. If planted in the fall, about one half of the top 

 growth should be cut off and the bushes protected against the 

 winter (see Winter Protection). If planted in the spring, remove 

 all weak shoots and cut the remainder to within about six inches 

 of the ground level. It is a good i)lan to mound newly set roses 

 with earth which should be removed when growth starts. It is 

 the general opinion that field grown, budded roses are to be 

 preferred as planting material. 



Summer Care. Keep the surface soil cultivated to maintain 

 a dust mulch through the summer and early fall; or mulch the 

 beds with peat moss, or with buckwheat hulls. A few years ago, 

 we compared the results obtained from the use of the above three 

 methods. It was almost impossible to see any diiTerence in the 

 three beds selected for experimentation — if any, it was in favor 

 of the one mulched with peat moss. 



Fertilizing. Our general practice (subject to occasional varia- 

 tions) is to apply a heavy dressing of cow manure in the fall (to 

 be described later) ; plus a complete commercial fertilizer (about 

 4-8-6) in the spring at the rate of 2 lbs. to 100 sq. ft., plus 

 superphosphate at the end of July at the rate of about 5 lbs. to 

 400 sq. ft. Many rose growers however, especially if their aim 

 is to produce extra large, or exhibition blooms, prefer to give 

 supplementary feedings throughout the growing season. Liquid 

 manure may be applied to the soil when the first flower buds 

 show and again a few weeks later. Or, a quick acting "com- 

 plete" commercial fertilizer may be substituted, using a heaping 

 tablespoonful to each plant. The soil should be well soaked with 

 water before applying liquid manure or commercial fertilizers. 

 Do not attempt to force your bushes to grow by fertilizing them 

 during very hot weather. Do not give any quick-acting ferti- 

 lizer after mid-August or it may result in the production of 

 sappy grow^th unfitted to survive the winter. Bonemeal, as it is 

 slow acting, may be applied in October. It will be available for 

 the roses the following year. Use 3-4 lbs. to 100 sq. ft. If the 



