xv:.] TOBACCO-SMOKING IN JAPAN. 639 



never dared to test completely the productions of the Japanese art 

 of cookery ; but Dr, Ahnquist and Lieut. Nordquist, who were 

 more unprejudiced, said they could put up with them very 

 well. The following menu gives an idea of what a Japanese 

 inn of the better class has to offer : — 



Vegetable soup. 



Boiled rice, sometimes with minced fowl. 



Boiled fish or raw fish with horse-radish. 



Vegetables with fish-sauce. 



Tea. 

 Soy is used to the fish. The rice is brought in hot in a 

 wooden vessel with a lid, and is distributed in abundance, but 

 the other dishes in extremely small portions. After meals, 

 especially in the evening, the Japanese often drink warm sahi, 

 or rice-brandy, out of peculiar porcelain bottles and small cups 

 set apart fir that purpose alone. 



During the meal one is commonly surrounded by a numerous 

 jjersonnel of female attendants, squatted down on the floor, who 

 keep up with the guest, if he understands their language, a 

 lively conversation, interrupted by salvoes of hearty laughter. 

 The ffirls remain while the man undresses in the evenino^, and 

 permit themselves to make remarks on the difference of the 

 physique of the Europeans and Jaj^anese, which are not only, 

 in our way of thinking, unsuitable for young girls, but even 

 impertinent towards the guest. The male attendants are seldom 

 seen, at least in the inner apartments. In the morning one 

 washes himself in the yard or on the balcony, and if he wishes 

 to avoid getting into disfavour, the guest will be careful not to 

 spill anything or spit on the mat. 



The Japanese tobacco-pipe now in use resembles that of the 

 Chukches, is very small, and is smoked out in a couple of whiffs. 

 A Japanese smokes without stopping a score of pipes in succes- 

 sion. Tobacco-smoking is now very general among high and 

 low of both sexes. It was introduced at the close of the sixteenth 

 century, it is uncertain whether from Corea or from the Portu- 

 guese possessions in Asia, and spread with great rapidity. As 

 among us, it here too at first gave occasion to stringent pro- 

 hibitions, and a lively exchange of writings for and against. In 

 a work by the learned Japanologist, Mr. E. M. Satow (" The 

 Introduction of Tobacco into Japan," Tra%%tdions of the Asiatic 

 Society of Japan, vol. vi. part i. p. 68), the following statements 

 among others are made on this subject : — 



'•' In 1609 there were in the capital two clubs whose main 

 delight was to contrive quarrels with peaceful citizens. Upwards 

 of fifty of the members of these clubs were suddenly arrested 

 and thrown into prison; but justice was satisfied when four or 



