XVII.] FIRES. 647 



with a countenance which c'early indicated that he wijuld rather 

 have hewn us in pieces with one of the two swords he had 

 formerly as samuvxi been entitled to wear, than received us 

 under his roof. After our entrance he still turned to the jjolice 

 official with the cry of lamentatii)n : "Must I then actually 

 receive these barbarians ? " But we had our revenge in a noble 

 way. We took off our boots before we entered the room, were so 

 profuse with talk, civilities, and bows, and on the whole behaved 

 in such a courteous fashion, that our jjreviously distracted host 

 not only bade us welcome back, but also gave us a letter of 

 introduction to the innkeepers at an inn where we were to stay 

 next, declaring that if we showed this letter we need not fear 

 any such disagreeable adventure as that j ust described. 



Most of the houses in the Japanese towns are built of pretty 

 thin, carefully joined timbers. But besides these there are to be 

 seen here and there small houses with very thick walls, windows 

 provided with heavy iron gratings, and doors that could be 

 fastened with large locks and bolts. These houses are fire- 

 resisting, and are used as storehouses for valuables and household 

 articles when there is danger of fire. Fires are so common in 

 Japan that it is supposed that a tenth part of every town is 

 burned down yearly. The fireman corps is numerous, well 

 ordered from old times, its members bold and daring. During 

 (Air stay overnight at Takasaki we were lodged in such a fire- 

 proof house, in very large clean apartments with the floor partly 

 covered with carpets after the European pattern. The walls 

 were very thick and of brick ; the interior fittings and stairs on 

 the other hand of wood. 



I have just mentioned that we were compelled to resort to the 

 police in order to obtain quarters for the night. Policemen are 

 numerous in Japan, both in town and country. For the most 

 part they are taken from the former samurai class. They are 

 clothed in the European style ; and walk, with a long stick in a 

 certain position under the arm, quietly and calmly on the streets 

 and roads, without, except in cases of necessity, making any 

 show of their authority. Commonly they are, or appear to be, 

 young, and all have a gentlemanlike appearance. In a word, they 

 appear to be equal to the best European police of the present 

 day, and stand immeasurably above the guardian of the peace, or 

 rather the raiser of dispeace, as he appeared some decades ago on 

 the European continent. During the latest revolt the police 

 were employed by the Government as infantry, and elicited 

 general admiration by the fire, the gallantry ,^and the contempt of 

 death with which they went into action with their old favourite 

 weapon, the Japanese sword. 



A passport is still required fjr travelling in the interior of the 

 country, but this is easily obtained at the request of the consul 



