C.r.6 THE VOYAGE OF THE VEGA. [rHAP. 



development now going on is carried out cautionsl}^ so that the 

 peculiarities of the people are not too much effaced. For, in 

 many departments, and not least in that of art, there is much to 

 be found here which when properly developed will form a new 

 and important addition to the culture of the West, of which we 

 are so proud. 



The large Japanese theatres, besides, often resemble the 

 European ones in their interior arrangement. The partition 

 between the stage and the space occupied by the spectators is 

 the same as among ns. Between the acts the former is con- 

 cealed by a curtain. The stage is besides provided with painted 

 scenes representing houses, woods, hills, &c., supported on 

 wheels, so that a complete change of scene can be effected in 

 a few moments. The music has the same place between the 

 stage and the spectators as at home. The latter, as at home, are 

 distributed partly in a gently rising amphitheatre, partly in 

 several tiers of boxes rising one above another, the lowest tier 

 being considered the principal one. The Japanese do not sit 

 in the same way as we do. Neither the amphitheatre nor the 

 boxes accordingly are provided with chairs or benches, but are 

 divided into square compartments one or two feet deep, each in- 

 tended for about four persons. Tliey sit on cushions, squatting 

 cross-legged in the common Japanese fashion. The compart- 

 ments are divided by broad cross beams, which form the passages 

 by which the spectators get to their places. During the play 

 we saw attendants running about with tea, saki, tobacco pipes, 

 and small braziers. For every one smokes during the acts, and 

 places himself in his crib as comfortably as possible. The piece 

 is followed with great attention, favourite actors and favourite 

 passages being saluted with lively applause. Even women and 

 children visit the theatre, and I have seen the former give their 

 children suck without the least discomposure among thousands 

 of spectators. Besides the plays intended for the public, there 

 are given also a number of other dramatic representations, as 

 society plays, peculiar fomily plays intended for the homes of the 

 old feudal princes, spectacles got up for the Mikado, and some 

 which have a half religious sionificance, &c. 



On the evening of the 5th October we came to Takasaki, 

 prepared to start immediately for Tokio. But though the 

 messenger we sent had duly executed his commission, horses 

 could not be procured before midnight. We passed the evening 

 with our former host, who at our first visit received us so un- 

 willingly, but now with great friendliness. We would easily 

 have reconciled ourselves to the delay, for a Japanese small 

 town such as Takasaki has ' much worth seeing to offer a 

 European, but a great part of the time was wasted in fruit- 

 less attempts to get the horse-hirer to let us have the horses 



