663 THE VOYAGE OF THE VEGA. [chap. 



such cases, and to give us the assistance that might he required. 

 Some ran laughing and busthng about, one on the top of another, 

 in order immediately to procure us what Ave Avanted, one held 

 the mirror, another the shaving-brush, a third the soap, &c. 

 Round them gathered other elder women, Avhose blackened 

 teeth indicated that they were married. A little farther off 

 stood men of all ages. Chance had here quite unexpectedly 

 shown us a picture from folk-life of the most agreeable kind. This 

 pleasant temper continued Avhile we immediately after, in the 

 presence of all, ate our breakfast in the porch of the ground- 

 floor, surrounded by our former ministering spirits, noAV kneeling 

 around us, continually bowing the head to the ground, laughing 

 and chattering. The same fun went on when a little after 

 I bought some living fresh- water fishes and put them in spirit, 

 yet with the difference that the girls now, with some cries, to 

 shoAv their fear of handling the living animals — though fish- 

 cleaning was one of their ordinary occupations — handed over to 

 the men the trouble of taking the fishes and putting them into 

 the spirit-jars. For a worm placed in spirit they feigned the 

 greatest terror, notwithstanding its covering of spirit and 

 glass, and ran shrieking away when any one suddenly brought 

 the jar Avith the Avorm near their faces. It ought to be noted 

 to the honour of the Japanese, that although Ave Avere by no 

 means surrounded by any select circle, there was not heard 

 during the Avhole time a single offensive word among the 

 closely-packed spectators, a fact Avliich gives us an idea of the 

 excellent tone of society Avhich prevails here, even among 

 the loAvest of the population, and Avhich shoAvs that the 

 Japanese, although they have much to learn from the Euro- 

 peans, ought not to imitate them in all. In Japan there is much 

 that is good, old, and national to take note of, perhaps more 

 than the Japanese at present have any idea of, and undoubtedly 

 more than many of the European residents Avill alloAV. 



CHAPTER XVIII. 



Farewell dinner at Yokohama- — The Chinese in Japan — Voyage to Kobe — 

 Purchase of Japanese Books — Journey by rail to Kioto — Biwa Lake 

 and the Legend of its Origin — Dredging there — Japanese Dancing- 

 Girls — Kioto — The Imperial Palace — Temples — Swords and Sword- 

 bearers — Shintoism and Buddhism — The Porcelain ]Manufacture — 

 Japanese Poetry — Feast in a Buddhist Temp'e — Sailing across the 

 Inland Sea of Japan — Landing at Hirosaini and Shimonoseki — Nagasaki 

 — Excursion to Mogi — Collection of Fossil Plants — Departure from 

 Japan. 



The last days at Yokohama Avere taken up Avith farcAvell visits 

 there and at Tokio. An afternoon's leisure during the last day 



