678 



THE VOYAGE OF THE VEGA. 



[cHAr. 



Much more remarkable and instructive than the now de- 

 serted imjjerial palace are the numerous temples at Kioto, of 

 which we visited several. We were generally received by the 

 priests in a large vestibule, whose lioor was covered with a 

 fine woollen carpet and was provided with tables and chairs of 

 European patterns. The priests first offered us Japanese tea, 

 cigars, and sweetmeats ; then we examined some valuable 

 articles exhibited in the room, consisting of bronzes, works in 

 the noble metals, splendid old lacquer work, and a number of 



famous swords dedicated to the 

 temple. These were the only 

 things that our freethinking 

 Governor treated with rever- 

 ence ; for the rest neither the 

 23riests nor their reliques seemed 

 to inspire him with any par- 

 ticular respect. 



When a valuable Japanese 

 sword is exhibited one touches 

 neither the hilt nor the scabbard, 

 and of course still less the blade, 

 with the bare hand, but it is 

 taken hold of either with a 

 gloved hand, or with the hand 

 Avith a handkerchief or piece of 

 ("loth wrapped round it. The 

 blade is only half bared, the 

 steel setting is looked at against 

 the light and admired ; on the 

 often exceedingly valuable 

 blades which are not moun- 

 ted, but only provided with a 

 wooden case to protect them 

 from rust, the maker's mark is 

 examined, and so on. As 

 among us in former times, the 

 swordsmith's is the only handicraft which in old times was 

 held in high esteem in Japan, and immense sums were often 

 paid for sword-blades forged by famous masters of the art. 

 Among old Japanese writings are to be found many works 

 specially treating of the making of weapons. But since the 

 swordsmen (samurai) have now been forbidden to show them- 

 selves armed, old Japanese swords are sold in all the towns 

 by hundreds and thousands, often for a trifle. During our 

 stay in the country I purchased for a comparatively limited 

 sum a fine collection of such weapons. Even those who cannot 

 appreciate the artistic forging of the blade, the steel-setting. 



BUDDHIST PRIEST. 



