720 THE VOYAGE OF THE VEGA. [chap, 



mountain localities proper, in order there to get a better sight of 

 the lichen flora of Ceylon. 



" I now travelled south partly by rail, partly by coach, until in 

 the evening I found myself lodged at a ' rest-house ' at Ram- 

 bodde, a thousand metres above the sea, at about the same height 

 accordingly as that at which trees cease to grow in southern 

 Norway, This tropical mountain land reminds one a little, in 

 respect of the contours of the landscape, of the fells of Norway. 

 Here too are found league-long deep valleys, surrounded by 

 high mountain summits and ranges with outlines sharply 

 marked against the horizon. But here they were everywhere 

 overgrown with coffee bushes, or possibly with cinchona plants. 

 The mountain slopes were so laid bare from the bottom all the 

 way up that scarce a tree was left in sight ; everywhere so far as 

 the eye could reach only coffee, 



" Next day, attended by a Singhalese, I went, or to speak more 

 correctly, climbed farther up the steep coffee plantations. At a 

 height of 1,300 metres above the sea coffee ceases to grow, and 

 we now found some not very extensive tea plantations, and above 

 these the primitive forest commences. At a height of 1,900 

 metres above the sea there is an extensive open plateau. Up 

 here there is a not inconsiderable place, Novara Elliya, where 

 the governor has a residence, and part of the troops are in 

 barracks during the summer heat. One of the mountains 

 which surround this plateau is Pedrotalegalla, the loftiest 

 mountain of Ceylon, which reaches a height of 2,500 metres 

 above the sea, 



" I have ascended not so few mountains, but of none has the 

 ascent been so easy as of this, for a broad footpath ran all the 

 way to the top. Without this path the ascent had been impos- 

 sible, for an hour's time would have been required for every foot 

 made good through the jungle, so closely is the ground under 

 the lofty trees covered to the top of the mountain with bushes, 

 creepers, or the bamboo. In the evening I returned to my 

 former night-quarters, where I slept well after a walk of 

 thirty-six English miles. 



" As I felt myself altogether unable the following day to make 

 any further excursion on foot, I travelled back to Peradeniya by 

 mail-coach. During this journey I had as my travelHng com- 

 panion a Singhalese, whom it was a special pleasure to see at 

 close quarters. One of his big toes was ornamented with a 

 broad ring of silver, both his ears were pierced above, and 

 provided with some pendulous ornament, and one side of the 

 nose was likewise perforated, in order that at that place too might 

 he adorn himself with apiece of grandeur. On his head he had, 

 like all Singhalese, a comb by which the hair drawn right 

 upwards is kept in position, as little girls at home are wont to 



