Xll CONTENTS. 



tertainment of the Commodore. — ^The Mayor's baby. — ^The common people very comfortable. — Field labors 

 shared by the women. — Straw great-coat for rainy weather. — Paper umbrellas. — People not indisposed to 

 intercourse with foreigners. — Respectful treatment of the female sex. — Japanese un-oriental in this re- 

 spect. — Polygamy not practised. — Japanese women naturally good-looking. — Some strikingly handsome.— 

 Girls have great vivacity, yet dignified and modest. — Social habits. — Visits. — Tea parties. — Squadron, after 

 notice to the Japanese authorities, proceeds up the bay with some of the officials on board. — Powhatan and 

 Mississippi go within sight of the capital. — Its immense size. — Sea front protected by high palisades. — - 

 Change of Japanese policy on the second visit to Tedo. — All show of military resistance studiouslj' avoided. — 

 The Commodore assures the Japanese officials that he will not anchor the steamers near the city, and, after 

 a glance, at their request, returns. — Great joy of the officials thereat. — Preparations for departure. — Mace- 

 donian ordered to Peel island. — Southampton, Supply, Vandalia, and Lexington sent to Simoda. — Webster 

 island. — Departure of the Commodore for Simoda. — Harlx)r examined. — The town and adjacent country. — • 

 Shops and dwellings. — Public baths. — Food. — Mode of cultivation. — Buddhist temples. — Grave-yards and 

 tombs. — Statues of Buddha. — Offerings of flowers on the graves. — Epitaphs or inscriptions. — Charms for 

 keeping away fom the dead malignant demons. — A temple appropriated for the occupancy of our officers. — 

 A Sintoo temple. — -Mariner's temple. — Salubrity of Simoda. — Made an imperial city since the treaty 3U3 — 414 



CHAPTEE XXn. 



Survey and description of the harbor of Simoda. — Discipline in the squadron. — Intercourse with the authorities 

 of Simoda. — Kura-kawa-kahei, the prefect. — His disposition to produce trouble. — Treatment of the Ameri- 

 can officers. — Eemonstrances of the Commodore. — Equivocation of the prefect. — He is frightened into pro- 

 priety. — Efforts of two Japanese gentlemen clandestinely to leave their country in the squadron. — Commo- 

 dore's conduct. — Buddhist temples at Simoda. — Prefect again shows bis petty hostility. — His prevarications 

 and falsehoods. — ^Funeral of an American on shore. — ^Insult offered to American officers on shore. — Pre- 

 fect's further falsehoods. — Compelled to apologize, and informed that his insolence would not be borne in 

 future. — Friendly intercourse with the people. — Departure for Hakodadi. — Volcano of Oho-Sima. — Tlie 

 Kuro-siwo, or Japanese " gulf stream. " — Straits of Sangar. — Fogs. — Harbor of Hakodadi. — Directions for 

 entering - 415—432 



CHAPTER XXHI. 



Visit from tlie authorities at Hakodadi. — Tlicir ignorance that a treaty had been made. — Visit to authorities 

 and explanation of affiiirs to tlie Japanese. — Answer of the officials at Hakodadi. — Their friendliness and 

 courtesy. — Visit-; and rambles of the Americans on shore. — Houses allotted for their temporary accommo- 

 dation. — Description of Hakodadi. — Resemblance to Gibraltar. — Cleanliness of streets. — Pavements and 

 sewers. — Division into districts under Ottonas. — Pack-horses used; no wheel-carriages. — ^Town very thriv- 

 ing. — Buildings described. — Preparations against fires in the city. — Skill of carpenters and house-joiners. — 

 Shops, their construction and goods. — Carvings in wood. — Furniture. — Cliairs and tables. — Fashion in eat- 

 ing. — Tea, how prepared; fire for boiling the kettle. — Kitchens, stables, and gardens. — Fire-proof ware- 

 houses. — Ti'affic at the shops. — Buddhist temples. — Grave-yards. — Praying by machinery. — Inscriptions on 

 tombs. — Sintoo temples. — Shrines by the way-side. — Gateways on the roads. — Prospects for Christianity in 

 Japan. — Weak military defences of Hakokadi. — Surrounding country. — Look-out for ships approaching. — 

 Japanese telescope. — Geology of the country. — Mineral spring. — ^Natural cave. — Culinary vegetables. — 

 Commerce and fisheries. — Japanese junks. — Ship-yards. — Few birds. — Fish abundant. — Wild quadrupeds. — ■ ■> 



Fox considered as the devil. — Horses much used. — Kagos. — Climate of Hakodadi. — PopiUation and physical 

 characteristics of the people. — Ainos or hairy kuriles. — Mechanical skill of the Japanese. — Carpentry and 

 masonry. — Coopers. — Iron ore workers. — Blacksmiths, their bellows. — Copper much used in junk building. 

 — Spinning and weaving. — Dyed cottons. — Silk iiibrics. — Lacquered ware. — Printing, drawing, and paint- 

 ing. — Sculpture. — Architecture. — General intelligence. — Information, derived through the Dutcli at Na- 

 gasald, from European publications. — Japanese game of chess. — Cards. — Loto. — Ball and jackstraws among 

 the children - 433 — 466 



CHAPTER XXIV. 



Interview between the Commodore and the representative of the prince of Matsmai. — Southampton sent to ex- 

 plore Volcano bay, including Endermo harbor. — Report of the survey- — Poverty of the region around the 

 bay. — ^Eruption of a volcano at midnight. — Ainos. — Boundaries of Americans at Hakodadi left to be settled 

 with the imperial commissioners. — Good understanding between the Americans and people of Hakodadi. — 

 Japanese delighted with the exhibition of the "Ethiopian minstrels" on board ship. — Squadron theatricals. 

 — Interest of Japanese in the machinery and fire-arms of the ships. — Answer of Hakodadi authorities to 

 Commodore's inquiries as to European or American vessels wrecked in Japan during the last ten years. — 

 Answer of the imperial commissioners to similar inquiries. — Macedonian sails for Simoda. — Vandalia des- 



