152 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 



The Great Lew Chew was seen from the ships, as they approached, at the distance of more 

 than twenty miles, and, when near enough to render objects distinguishable, presented a very 

 inviting appearance. It is thus graphically described by the pen of one of the officers of the 

 expedition: * 



"The shores of the island were green and beautiful from the water, diversified with groves 

 and fields of the freshest verdure. The rain had brightened the colors of the landscape^ which 

 recalled to my mind the richest English scenery. The swelling hills, which rose immediately 

 from the water's edge, increased in height towards the centre of the island, and were 

 picturesquely broken by abrupt rocks and crags, which, rising here and there, gave evidence of 

 volcanic action. Woods^ apparently of cedar or pine, ran along the crests of the hills, while 

 their slopes were covered with gardens and fields of grain. To the northward, the hills were 

 higher, and the coast jutted out in two projecting headlands, showing that there were deep bays 

 or indentations between." "By three o'clock we were so near that the town of Napha was 

 distinctly visible, at the bottom of the bay. The cape, called Abbey Point, projected in front of 

 it, covered with foliage, and the extremity crowned with an isolated group of crags, whose 

 mossy turrets and buttresses evidently suggested the name of the point. The hills were dotted in 

 various jjlaces with white specks, which I at first took to be dwellings, but which were tombs of 

 limestone rock."t 



As the ships entered, the British ensign was seen suddenly to rise on a flag-stafi", placed near 

 a house, which was perched on a curious overhanging point of rock, north of the town ; this 

 house was the residence of the missionary, Mr. Bettelheim, a convert from Judaism, who 

 married in England, and had, for some five or six years, been resident on the island, under the 

 auspices of an association of pious English gentlemen, officers of the British navy^ very much, 

 however, against the inclinations of the Lew Chewans. On passing Abbey Point, the mouth of 

 the inner harbor became visible, and within it was a number of large Japanese junks, riding at 



* The well known traveller, Bayard Taylor, who joined the Susquehanna in China. The circumstances under which this 

 gentleman joined the expedition are thus detailed by the Commodore : 



"On my arrival at Shanghai I found there Mr. Bayard Taylor, who had a letter of introduction to me from an esteemed 

 friend in New York. He had been a long time, as I understood, exceedingly anxious to join the squadron, that he might visit 

 Japan, which he could reach in no other way. 



" On presenting the letter referred to, he at once made a request to accompany me, but to tliis application I strongly objected, 

 intimating to him the determination I had made at the commencement of the cruise to admit no civilians, and explaining how 

 the few who were in the squadron had, by signing the shipping articles, subjected themselves to all the restraints and penalties 

 of naval law; that there were no suitable accommodations for him, and that, should he join the expedition, he would be 

 obliged to suffer, with the other civilians, many discomforts and privations, and would moreover be restricted, under a general 

 order of the Navy Department, from communicating any information to the public prints, or privately to his friends; that all 

 the notes or general observations made by him during the cruise would belong to the government, and therefore must be 

 deposited with me. Notwithstanding this, Iiowever, with a full knowledge of all the difficulties and inconveniences which 

 would attend his joining the squadron, he still urged his application. 



"Being thus importuned, and withal very favorably impressed with his gentlemanlike and unassuming manners, I at last 

 reluctantly consented, and he joined the mess of Messrs. Heine and Brown, on board the Susquehanna. During the short time 

 he remained in the squadron he gained the respect and esteem of all, and, by his habits of observation, aided by his ready pen, 

 became quite useful in preparing notes descriptive of various incidents that transpired during our first brief visit to Japan and 

 the islands. It was the only service he could render, and it was afforded cheerfully. These notes have been used in the 

 preparation of my report, and due credit has, I trust, been given to him. 



"Some of the incidents illustrative of the events mentioned in my official communications were, u-ilh my cnnseni, written out 

 by Mr. Taylor, and sent home by him for publication in the United States. Tliese he has used in his late work. His original 

 journals were honorably deposited in my hands. His reports, like those of every other individual detailed fur tlie performance 

 of a special duty, were, of course, delivered to me, and became part of the official records of the expedition." 



f Extracted from the manuscript journal of Mr. Taylor, which, with those of other officers, pursuant to the orders of the 

 Hon. Secretary, was placed in the hands of the Coinmodure. 



