156 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 



Among otlier matters that occurred at the meetins; between the regent and the Commodore, 

 the latter informed his guest that he should do himself the honor to return his visit, (d the jMlace, 

 in the city of Sheudi or Shui, on the following Monday week, (June 6th.) This informa- 

 tion caused some consultation and discussion between the regent and his counsellors ; but the 

 Commodore put an end to it by stating that he had fully made a determination to go to the 

 palace on that day, and should surely execute it. He further added that he should expect such a 

 reception as became his rank and position as commander of the squadron and diplomatic repre- 

 sentative of the United States in those regions ; and with a distinct understandings if not acqui- 

 escence, on the part of the regent, to this effect, he took his departure. 



One result of the visit was very agreeable to the officers, for permission was immediately 

 given them to go on shore, accompanied with a request that they would in no case intrude them- 

 selves where their presence might seem to be disagreeable to the natives. They very soon 

 availed themselves of the privilege, and a party (of which Mr. Taylor was one) landed at the 

 foot of the rock upon which Dr. Bettelheim had erected his flagstaif. They found the shore to 

 be coral rock covered with a dense and luxurious vegetation ; and about the distance of twenty 

 yards from flood tide mark, the gardens of the natives commenced, divided from each other by 

 coral walls and bristling hedges of yucca and cactus. Mr. Taylor thus describes this his first 

 landing on Lew Chew : "Several groups of Lew Chewans watched our landing, but slowly 

 retired as we approached them. The more respectable, distinguished by the silver pins in 

 their hair, made to us profound salutations. The lower classes wore a single garment of brown 

 cotton or grass-cloth, and the children were entirely naked. Even in the humblest dwellings 

 there was an air of great neatness and order. Most of them were enclosed within high coral 

 walls, in the midst of a small plot of garden land, some of which contained thriving patches of 

 tobacco, maize, and sweet potatoes. 



" Threading the winding lanes of the suburb for a short distance, we came into the broad paved 

 road which leads from Napha to Sheudi. It is an admirable thoroughfare, almost equal to the 

 macadamized roads of England. The walls on either hand of coral rock are jointed together 

 with great precision. No mortar is used in their construction, but the stones are so well fitted, 

 (very much in the manner of the cyclopean walls of Italy,) that the whole appears, at a little 

 distance, to be one mass. We here came upon parties from the Mississippi and Saratoga. The 

 natives collected in crowds to see us pass, falling back as we approached, and closing behind us. 

 They were under the authority of several persons, who had evidently received a special appoint- 

 ment to watch us. Among them were many fine, venerable figures — -old men with flowing 

 beards and aspects of great dignity and serenity ; but no sooner were any of these addressed than 

 they retreated with great haste. The houses were all closed, and not a female was to be seen. 

 The roofs were of red tiles, of excellent manufacture, and this, with the dark-green foliage of 

 the trees which studded the city, the walls topped with cactus, and the occasional appearance 

 of a palm or banana, reminded me of the towns in Sicily. 



"As we entered the thickly inhabited portion of Napha, the road passed over the foot of a low 

 hill, by regularly graded steps, and then descended to the inner harbor, where the Japanese 

 junks lay at anchor. From this harbor a creek, or estuary, almost dry at low water, extends 

 eastward into the island. The market-place is in this portion of the town. It was deserted, 

 like the streets, except by the inhabitants of two or three large tents, which were closed, except 

 a narrow aperture. On our asking (by signs) for water, the people went to these tents and 



