158 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 



rations. In the vegetation there was a mixture of the growths of tropical and temperate 

 climates, and in no part of the world have I seen a greater richness or variety. A stone bridge, 

 of rough hut substantial workmanship, crosses the creek near its head. I noticed several of tlie 

 natives riding over it into the country, on the Lew Chew ponies — shaggy, little animals, pro- 

 bably descended from the Chinese stock. 



"We strolled into a temple, from the walls of which several persons, probably females, had 

 been watching us. They disappeared with great rapidity as we entered the door. The court- 

 yard of the temple was shaded with fine trees, but we discovered nothing of interest except two 

 long, narrow boats, of the kind called 'centipede' at Hong Kong, designed for public festivals. 

 While we sat down upon them to rest, quite a crowd of natives gathered about lis, and soon 

 became familiar, though respectful in their demeanour. They were very neatly dressed in grass- 

 cloth robes of a blue or salmon color, and (perhaps by contrast with the filthy Chinese) seemed 

 to me the cleanest persons I had ever seen. The street vendors had not had time to get out of 

 our way, and they sat beside their piles of coarse cheese-cakes. There were some women among 

 them, but they were all old and hideously ugly. The costume of the female does not difi'er from 

 that of the males, but they are distinguished by having a single instead of a double hair-pin." 



On the 30th of May, the party ordered to explore the interior of the island, and its eastern 

 coast, set out for the performance of that duty. It consisted of twelve persons — four officers, 

 four of the crew, and four Chinese coolies. From the Susquehanna were sent Mr. Taylor and 

 Mr. Heine; and from the Mississippi the Kev. Mr. Jones, chaplain, and Dr. Lynah, assistant 

 surgeon. The command of the expedition was given to Mr. Jones, who was directed particularly 

 to observe the geology of the island ; as^ if it contained coal, it was a most imi^ortant character- 

 istic. Mr. Taylor was ordered to take notes, and write out a detailed account of the journey. 

 It was supposed the duty would occupy five or six days, and accordingly the expedition was 

 furnished with provisions for that period, and with a tent. The men were armed with cutlasses 

 and carbin«B, and ten rounds of ball cartridges each. It was not, however, supposed that 

 there would he need of a resort to force on any occasion; still, it was deemed prudent to let 

 the natives see the power of the party to defend itself; and beside^ guns and aniunition were 

 required for the purpose of procuring birds and animals. 



On this day, also, the Commodore sent two of the officers of the squadron ashore, with the 

 interpreter, to make arrangements with the authorities for procuring a house. On landing, they 

 proceeded to a building which seemed to be what we should call, in the United States, a "town 

 hall." It was the place, in the village of Tumai, where common strangers were received, and 

 contained some thirty mats on the floor for sleeping ; waiters were also in attendance with tea 

 and pipes. The purposes to which the building is applied seemed, however, to be various. Tlie 

 literati meet there to converse and interchange opinions ; and any one of them may sjiend the 

 night there upon any unoccupied mat. Our officers, on reaching this buildings sent for one of 

 the principal men, who, after an hour's delay, made his appearance, and was most profound in 

 his obeisance. Tea and pipes (the never failing preliminary) having been disposed of, the gen- 

 tlemen made known their business to the Japanese ofiicial. He promptly declared that it would 

 be utterly impossible for the Americans to occupy a house on shore. But, as Captain Hall, of 

 the British navy, had, after much delay, at last obtained a house on shore, and our officers knew 

 it, they reminded the Lew Chewans of the fact, and simply told him that they must have a house. 

 He was very ingenious in arguments to show that the difiiculties in the way were insurmountable. 



