160 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 



There was evident opposition on tte part of the authorities, at first, to visits on shore from 

 the ships. This was expected, for the narratives of all who had visited the island had prepared 

 the squadron for this. Notwithstanding, however, our officers did go on shore and wander over 

 the town of Kapha and its suburbs, objects of no little interest and curiosity to the natives, 

 who followed them in crowds, and were very polite, bowing low to them as they passed. But, 

 despite all this courtesy, our ofiicers were quite sensible that the eyes of spies were upon them 

 continually, and that every movement was watched. The women and children were taught by 

 these oflicials to run away, as if affrighted, on the approach of the Americans, and, in short, a 

 polite suspicion characterized the intercourse on the part of the Lew Chewans. The sick ofiicer, 

 however, on shore at Tumai, seemed to be on the best possible terms with the natives, and they 

 certainly were kind. The inhabitants appear to be naturally not unamiable, but the experience of 

 our ofiicers does not altogether sustain the glowing accounts of the simplicity, friendliness and 

 contentment of the people. Either Captain Basil Hall was mistaken, or the national traits have 

 changed since the time of his visit. He represents them as without arms, ignorant even of money, 

 docile, tractable and honest, scrupulously obedient to their rulers and their laws, and, in fact, 

 as loving one another too well wilfullj' to harm or wrong each other. Many of the ofiicers of 

 the squadron went to the island, exjjecting to find these beautiful traits of character ; but gra- 

 dually and painfully undeceived in many particulars, they were constrained to acknowledge that 

 human nature in Lew Chew was very much the same as it is elsewhere. 



The system of government, of which secret espionage forms a distinguishing feature, must 

 beget in the inferior classes cunning and falsehood, and these our officers certainly found. The 

 Lew Chewans pretend ignorance of offensive weapons, and of such no ojjen display is made by 

 the people, but Dr. Bett'elheim says that he has seen fire-arms in their possession, though they 

 seek to conceal them from strangers ; and they are doubtless, by nature, a pacific people. As 

 to money, they know the value of gold and silver very well, and they traffic for the Chinese 

 "cash," of which from twelve to fourteen Imndred are equivalent to the Spanish dollar. They 

 are an eminently shrewd people, and proved themselves to be somewhat "smart" in the matter 

 of exchange, when the disbursing officers of the squadron came to settle with them the value of 

 the "cash." They showed no reluctance to take our eagles and half-eagles, though Captain 

 Hall says they would not, in his day, touch the British gold coins. They have, on the whole, 

 many excellent natural traits, and their worst vices are probably the result, in a great measure, 

 of the wretched system of government under which they live. 



or were detained so that they were unable to return on board before night, there was no place to rest at, unless they abruptly 

 entered the houses of the people ; that, as the men on board ship were ignorant of the Lew Chewan language, if they wanted 

 only a cup of water they could not get it ; for these reasons, one or two houses were required, and if they were wanted for other 

 purposes, these were all of a peaceable and friendly nature, but it was indispensible to have one. The mayor (of Napha) having 

 intimated that the building already occupied by the sailors was a kung-kxcan, or public hall, if the officers would designate 

 another building, they would remove to it according to their wishes." I find that the building now occupied is a public house, 

 for the deliberations of officers and police, and meetings on public business; but having sought out a place which can be used, 

 I find that the Shing-hien-sz' , or Holy Manifesting monastery, for preserving the anchorage of ships, can be obtained for a 

 residence ; and I beg that orders for removal to this place, as a temporary residence, may be given. Then will the prince and 

 authorities, one and all, be greatly obliged by this great kindness. An important petition. 

 Hien fung, 3d year, 4th moon, 27th day, (June 3d, 1853.) 



This building might readily have been granted on the first application. It was, we believe, the same used by the English, on 

 Captain Hall's visit. As to the young prince, the reader will be surprised to learn that there were the strongest reasons in the 

 minds of many for suspecting him to be an imaginary personage. No one believed a syllable of the story about the queen 

 dowager's illness ; indeed, there was no evidence to the Americans that there was a queen dowager. 



