EXPLORATION OF LEW CHEW. 165 



the name of the place as Pino. Mr. Heine took a sketch of it, and astonished the natives, some 

 forty or fifty of whom had collected to look at us, by firing at a mark with his rifle. Immediately 

 after leaving Pino, whence we started at 3 p. m., the paved road ceased, and the way became 

 deep and miry. The soil was a lead-colored, stifi" clay, the disintegration of shale rock, which 

 here appeared for the first time. We had not proceeded more than half a mile before we reached 

 the dividing ridge or crest of the island, and a magnificent panorama opened below us to the 

 eastward. The sea-line of the Pacific formed the horizon, and a spacious sheet of water between 

 two headlands which made out from the island led us to suppose that we were lookino- upon 

 Barrow's Bay. Between us and the sea lay an amphitheatre of hills, cultivated to their very 

 tops and clothed with the greenest verdure. Their sides were carefully terraced, and every 

 advantage taken of the inclination of the soil, so as to collect the rains for irrigation. The 

 cultivation was quite as patient and thorough as that of China. The picturesque formation of 

 the hills gave a great variety of outline to the landscape, which embraced a compass of perhaps 

 twenty miles. Towards the west we overlooked all the country we had passed, as far as a 

 headland in the northwest, which I took to be Cape Broughton. Mr. Heine took a sketch of the 

 view, looking eastward, while I attempted to take the western side. 



Resuming our march, we descended the ridge, which was about 600 feet above the sea-level. 

 The clayey path leading down was very wet and slippery, and the coolies fell and rolled over 

 several times with the baggage. Passing through gaps between the lower hills, we reached a 

 semi-circular plain, nearly two miles in breadth, extending around the head of the bay. On 

 either side was a village of thatched huts, buried in trees. The scouts had already been before 

 us, and the natives lay concealed in their habitations. The former supposed that we would take 

 a road leading to a large village at the head of the bay, but as we turned abruptly to the 

 northward, we soon saw them running across the fields to regain the road ahead of us. There 

 were a number of villages at the base of the hills, on our left, but so thickly studded with trees 

 tliat they were almost concealed from view. I collected a number of plants, one of them a 

 species of althasa, with a splendid scarlet blossom. The road which we took led through the rice 

 fields and was very deep and muddy. While stopping to rest on a bridge over one of the irrigating 

 streams, our old conductor came up with his two assistants, and intimated to us by signs that 

 it was time we should return to the ships. The sun would soon set, they said, and we sliould 

 have no place to sleep. We replied, (also by signs,) that instead of returning we were going 

 northward, and would not reach the ships again for five or six days. They appeared greatly 

 surprised at this and a little troubled, since it was part of their duty not to lose sight of 

 us. The old fellow, who, in his haste to keep up, had slipped down in the muddy road 

 and soiled the hinder part of his robe, laughed heartily at the accident, and finally became 

 resigned to the prospect of the long tramp before him. They then pointed to the west, sayino- 

 that there was a Cung-qua in that direction, where we could spend the night. Our course 

 however, was nearly northeast, and about half past five, having reached a hill oyerlookin"- the 

 bay, on the summit of which was an open space surrounded with young pines, we determined to 

 encamp there. The people objected to our cutting down the trees, and we made tent poles by 

 fastening together the bamboo staves used by the coolies. There was a village on the slope of 

 the hill below us, and after some delay, caused by the difficulty of interpreting our wants to the 

 native officials, we obtained four fowls, forty eggs, and two bundles of firewood. One of our 

 Chinamen, "A-shing," professed to speak the Lew Chew language, but we soon found him as 



