EXPLORATION OF LEW CHEW. 175 



pine apple. We were obliged to pull off our Loots and wade. We here found a shrub with 

 sraall white blossoms and bright-green milky leaves ; another with yellow berries of a powerful 

 aromatic taste ; and a liliaceous plant, with a racine of flowers resembling those of the snap- 

 dragon, but white in hue, with a fringed lip of the richest orange. At one of the villages on 

 the plain I noticed tlie plum and the orange, and a new variety of the banyan, with very small 

 glossy leaves. Beyond the stream we struck into fragrant pine woods, and finally into a dense 

 forest, where the path was still wet and slippery from the rains, and the branches, meeting 

 overhead, made a perpetual shade. There were few flowers, and still fewer birds, in this 

 wilderness. In fact, the scarcity of birds all over the island, considering that they are not 

 destroyed by the natives, is rather singular. The day was very clear and hot, and the trees, 

 while they shaded us, quite shut off the sea breeze. The foliage was almost tropical, consisting 

 of dense glossy-leaved shrubs and luxuriant ferns, overtopped by woods of pine. Smaller paths 

 branched off here and there to the distant huts of the woodmen. After ascending for more than 

 two miles, we crossed a ridge and the path became gradually more open, exposing a view to the 

 west, over high hills, covered entirely with copscwood and patches of pine forest. The country 

 resembled the wild lands of America. There were swamps in the hollows, and we began to 

 look out for the wild boars which are said to exist in this part of the island. Catching anotlier 

 view to the eastward, we found ourselves near the head of Barrow's Bay, and after a half hour's 

 halt, to rest the coolies, set out again. Our official escort came up during the halt, much 

 fatigued, but as cordial and good humored as ever. Indeed, considering that all their trouble and 

 fatigue were caused by ourselves, we had every reason to admire the unshaken patience with 

 which they submitted to our ajiparently wayward course. 



Crossing another hill, we passed down broad, well-trodden paths, shaded by magnificent 

 arches of foliage, through a neat village. The houses were larger than usual, and there was an 

 aspect of greater wealth. Among the trees was one fifteen feet high, covered with cream-colored 

 blossoms, which exhaled the fragrance of nutmeg. An avenue of pines led /lown from this 

 lovely spot to a narrow plain at the head of Barrow's Bay. The rice growing in these parts 

 was very scanty and not yet in head. A large village, buried in trees, extended for half a mile 

 inland from the sea shore. We took a path leading down to the beach ; but Mr. Jones, who 

 was in advance, entered the village, where he was very courteously received and twice presented 

 with tea and pipes. The exhibition of his watch^ and a pocket microscope, excited the 

 unbounded wonder of the natives. The village was named "Isitza." 



We forded a salt creek and pitched our noonday camp on a piny knoll, at the foot of the hills. 

 As Mr. Jones had not arrived, we fastened our flag to the top of a tree and fired signals. I 

 took a bath in the sea, with the men, while our kettle was boiling. The water was excessively 

 saline, and the fine white particles of salt covered my face like dust as it became dry. At this 

 point Mr. Jones found a stratum of gneiss, for the first time, at the water's edge. Our native 

 friends drank three cups of our tea and asked for some biscuits, which they seemed to relish. 

 Before starting again we had a talk with them about the route. We wished to reach a point on 

 the coast north of Barrow's Bay, marked as "Kaneja" on our copy of the Japanese chart of 

 Lew Chew. The officers did not seem to recognize any such place, though they spoke of 

 "Kannah," where there was a Cung-qua, 30 U, or ten miles distant, and we decided to reach 

 it, if possible. 



We left at half-past one, taking one of the natives as a guide. The path followed the line ot 



