APPEARANCE OF THE COUNTRY. 189 



Captain Adams, Lieutenant Contee, and Mr. Perry, followed the sedan. Next appeared six 

 coolies bearing the presents designed for the prince and qneen dowager, and guarded by a file 

 of marines. Then came the officers of the expedition, headed by Captains Buchanan, Lee, and 

 Sinclair, followed by their servants. Next were the band of the Susquehanna, and a company 

 of marines closed the procession, wliich in numbers amounted to some two hundred or more. 



The whole procession was well arranged and picturesque in effect; while the beauty of the 

 day, the verdure of the hills and fields, and the cheerful music of the bands gave life and spirit 

 to the occasion. The natives clustered thickly on the sides of the road to gaze on the glittering 

 novelty, while crowds of tliem hung in the rear of the cortege. Tliey did not manifest the 

 smallest apprehension, notwitlistanding the presence of tlie marines under arms, and evidently 

 were pleasantly excited by the spectacle before them. When the procession passed through any 

 narrow lane the natives nearest to them knelt, the rank behind stooped down^ and the rear 

 remained erect, that all might have an opportunity of seeing. Very soon the procession emerged 

 from the village, and came out upon the open undi;lating country south of Sheudi. The picture 

 here was perfect. The fields of upland rice were gracefully bending like waves before the wind ; 

 the groves and hill sides were dark with the deep-green foliage, so suggestive of cool shady 

 retreats, while, in the distance, the roof-tops of Sheudi, glittering in the sun, revealed, here 

 and there, a spot of dazzling brightness amid the thick leafy covering of the trees in which the 

 city was embosomed. LTnder clumps of the Lew Chew pine the pleased natives were gathered 

 in groups, while others might be seen running along the ridges that divided the rice fields, that 

 they might head the procession, and tlius gain another view; wliile over all the music from the 

 bands floated far around, and added to the pleasurable excitement of the march. As the pro- 

 cession ascended the hill of Shui the officers and men, who had been so long confined to the 

 monotony of ship-board life, gazed around with delight, perfectly charmed with the rich culti- 

 vated landscape that stretched away to the southward and westward. 



The officer designated to receive the Commodore at the landing, and conduct him to the capital, 

 was the Pe-ching who had been, in the previous week, with the exploring party into the interior. 

 Wlien the procession arrived at the gate of Shui, it was met by a crowd of native dignitaries, 

 with their attendants, all in their best robes of grass cloth, and with the red and yellow hatchee- 

 matchees, or peculiar Lew Chew cap, on their heads. The old regent and his three venerable 

 coadjutors here appeared, and after salutations, turned and accompanied the procession into the 

 city. It passed on without halting, through the central arch, and marched up the principal 

 street. A large train of attendants was in the retinue of the regent and chiefs ; some carried 

 umbrellas, others bore cliow-choio , or refreshment boxes, cases for cups, and other articles. 

 There was an inscription in Chinese characters over the central arch, which was translated by 

 Mr. Williams to signify "The place of authority;" under this arch the common people were 

 not allowed to pass. 



The main street showed, on either side, high walls, with occasional alleys branching from it 

 on both sides. The native officers kept the streets clear of spectators, except at one spot, where 

 an alley branched off to the left. Here was a dense crowd, and here also was exhibited the final 

 device to prevent the Commodore from going to the palace. The regent's own residence was not 

 far from the entrance of the street thus crowded, and here that dignitary requested, through the 

 interpreter, that the procession should at once go to his house and partake of the refreshments 

 he had provided. Mr. Williams, who saw at once the object of the request, paid no attention 



