INCREASED CORDIALITY OF THE LEW CHEWANS. 



309 



CHAPTER XVII 



INCREASED CORDIALITY AKD FRIENDLY INTERCOCTRSE ON THE PART OF THE LEW CHEWANS.- — SECOND VISIT OF THE COMMODORE TO 



THE PALACE AT SHCI. ENTERTAINMENT BY THE REGENT. NO METALLIC COIN OF LEW CHEW TO BE OBTAINED. REV. MR. 



JONEs' SECOND E.XFLORATION IN SEARCH OF COAL. FINDS IT AT SHAH BAY. THE MINERAL NOT VALUED BY THE NATIVES. 



ADDITIONAL GEOLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS IN LEW CHEW.— RE.MARKABLE SALUBRITY OF THE ISLAND. TENURE OF LANDS. 



AGRICULTURE. RICE, POTATOES, SUGAR, COTTON, WHEAT, BARLEY, MILLET, SAGO, BEANS, PEAS, TOBACCO, EDIBLE ROOTS, 



FRUITS, TREES, FLOWERS, ETC. SUGAR MILLS. GRAIN MILLS AND GRANARIES. POPULATION. ETHNOLOGY. COSTUME. 



POLITENESS OF MANNER. GENERAL INTELLIGENCE. ARCHITECTURE. RUDE ATTEMPTS IN PAINTING AND SCULPTURE. 



AMUSEMENTS. GOVERNMENT. RELIGION. FUNERAL RITES. JAPANESE SPIES IN LEW CHEW. DEPARTURE FOR THE gAV 



OF YEDO. 



IX MONTHS had passed since the Commodore's last 

 departure from Lew Chew, and now, on his fourth 

 visit to that interesting island, he observed a very 

 marked change in the conduct of the Lew Chewans 

 towards the Americans. The authorities readily fur- 

 nished whatever was required, and received a due price 

 for it, seemingly as a matter of course, while the people 

 l\ad evidently thrown off somewhat of their reserve, 

 ind were more disposed to a friendly intercourse. The 

 men in the street grew quite familiar with the sight of 

 the strangers, and did not avoid them, while the 

 women, even, no longer fled from the market places, 

 but remained iu charge of their stalls, apparently 

 unmindful of the foreign intruders. 

 The Commodore, soon after his arrival, gave notice to the regent that it was his intention 

 before leaving Napha to visit the palace of Shui for the second time, thinking it not amiss, as 

 the Lew Chewans seemed to be gradually yielding to American intercourse, .to weaken by 

 repetition the very strong opposition at first evinced to opening the gates of the royal residence 

 to foreign visitors. The regent, however, still exhibited a very decided aversion to the 

 admission of the Commodore within the sacred walls of the palace, and in a courteous commu- 

 nication expressed a willingness to receive him, but a very strong preference for Napha as the 

 place of reception. The Commodore, however, holding to his original intention, declared, in 



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